Ashley55 Report post Posted February 14, 2021 I've been using Tandy leather up until now, its been fine but I wanted to upgrade to something of better quality. I purchased some Belgian veg tanned double shoulder from a nearby store, its very nice BUT it doesn't give off any nice dark burnish when carving and stamping. I've tried several different casing methods (full 24hr in a bag, quick sponge, etc), stamping at different moisture levels, but I still get the same results. I don't know if there is something I need to do differently, or if this is just what I will get from this leather? This is the Tandy leather on top, and new leather below. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arturomex Report post Posted February 16, 2021 I don't know what's going on with this. I was hoping someone who did know might reply and educate all of us. Somebody? Please? I have the same experience with some veg tan that's sold as coming from a European tannery. It's not attributed to any specific country. It cuts, tools and stamps very nicely. I miss the darker bronze as a reference but a small light mounted at a low angle across the area I'm working on gives me enough contrast to see where I've been and where I'm going. I'm antiquing the stuff I make with this leather and things show up just as desired when finished. One of my complaints with the Tandy leather is that if I put water on the edges for slicking, the "color" in the leather will sometimes run a little off the edge and onto the face of the leather. Not a problem if I'm going to dye dark. Not so good if I'm looking for a lighter color. It also creates a mottled effect on the edge that precludes leaving a homogeneous natural edge finish. This doesn't happen with the type of leather we're asking about and I appreciate that. I have found that if the edge I'm working on is short enough to be manageable, tilting the Tandy leather at a fairly steep angle when applying water for slicking helps alleviate the problem of color running. The European stuff I'm using takes dye (Fiebing's Pro) very well and the edges finish nicely. I like Hermann Oak for tooling/stamping but availability and price can be an issue at times. When I can't get HO I'm quite happy to use the European veg tan . It's a nice, clean leather that holds a crisp impression and finishes well. (Sounds like damn wine review. LOL) I'd like to know more about where it comes from. And I'd still like to know why it doesn't bronze up. Or, why other veg tans do. Regards, Arturo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Squid61 Report post Posted February 16, 2021 The stamping results on the "new leather" look like the leather was way too wet. You did try various degrees of wetness though so that is not likely the problem. What are you using as a base to stamp on, I get the best results on granite. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mike02130 Report post Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) Hmm, I wonder if it is because of the tanning techniques and ingredients that Europeans use? I've seen leather from Tandy and other sellers that is from Brazil, Argentina and Mexico and of unknown origin. I'm sure the cheaper leather is also tanned more cheaply. I primarily use Italian and French leather. European leather usually has a higher oil content and they use a combination of extracts from chestnut, mimosa and quebracho trees. Edited February 16, 2021 by mike02130 added an indefinite article Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaintJoy18 Report post Posted February 16, 2021 I know the title of the video is about moisture content, but he also addresses different levels of leather quality and shows side-by-side results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) On 2/14/2021 at 10:27 AM, Ashley55 said: I've tried several different casing methods (full 24hr in a bag, quick sponge, etc), stamping at different moisture levels, but I still get the same results. Then it's likely the tanning process used on the leather. I wouldn't always take what somebody said about their results as accurate, but you seem to have a very good grasp of what you have going on and what to do about it, particularly for a "new guy". Sometimes, it really is the leather. I tool both Hermann Oak and Wickett-Craig leathers, and they are NOT the same. Both are good, but NOT the same. Did I mention they aren't the same? 1 hour ago, SaintJoy18 said: title of the video is about moisture content, bu This guy's leather is FAR too wet. Ridiculously wet. Maybe it's ready to tool after dark ... Edited February 16, 2021 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted February 16, 2021 I have some leather like that it holds the stamp great but not much color. was ordered and given to me by a friend but came from "the leather guy" whoever that is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley55 Report post Posted February 16, 2021 Thanks everyone for the replies. Wish there was a solution I was missing, but at least I have an idea that it might just be the leather. It does tool and dye nicely, so maybe I'll just have to stick with antiquing if I want any definition to my tooling. Wish I hadn't bought a whole double shoulder, but I live so far from any stores so try and make it worth it when I travel there. I'd like to try some Herman Oak or Wickett- Craig, but nowhere around sells it so have to ship it in, will probably try for it once I'm done with this stuff. Those pieces in the picture were just done quickly so I could have something to show. But it looks the same no matter the moisture content. And I stamp on granite, so good and hard surface. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaintJoy18 Report post Posted February 17, 2021 21 hours ago, JLSleather said: This guy's leather is FAR too wet. Ridiculously wet. Maybe it's ready to tool after dark ... I agree it's too wet, but the moisture content portion of the video wasn't my focus. I was posting so a side-by-side comparison could be made with different qualities of leather. Tandy is by no means the best, but can be better than many imported "veg-tans" which is evident in the burnishing obtained by the stamps. Better quality leathers will usually produce better results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted February 17, 2021 17 hours ago, Ashley55 said: Thanks everyone for the replies. Wish there was a solution I was missing, but at least I have an idea that it might just be the leather. It does tool and dye nicely, so maybe I'll just have to stick with antiquing if I want any definition to my tooling. Wish I hadn't bought a whole double shoulder, but I live so far from any stores so try and make it worth it when I travel there. I'd like to try some Herman Oak or Wickett- Craig, but nowhere around sells it so have to ship it in, will probably try for it once I'm done with this stuff. Those pieces in the picture were just done quickly so I could have something to show. But it looks the same no matter the moisture content. And I stamp on granite, so good and hard surface. you can always make un-tooled products with it. Sounds like you live in Wyoming too lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 17, 2021 2 hours ago, SaintJoy18 said: Tandy is by no means the best, Okay, One. More. Time. Tandy does stock some stuff I wouldnt' use, ever. But I HAVE purchased some perfectly usable tooling leather at Tandy stores in Iowa and Minnesota. Their tooling double shoulders have gone into quite a few of my projects. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SpiritHorse Report post Posted October 25, 2023 Hello, I’m new to the craft and having the same issue. I purchased off Amazon from European tannery. (Supposedly) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
