Bullet loops

[Davm]

There are three ways to put bullet loops on a cartridge belt. I think the most common is sewing. I've done that on most of my belts. You can also cut slots in the belt and run the loop leather through the slots.  You can do that two different ways.  One is to "snake" the loop leather in and out each hole. This creates a situation where the bullets are somewhat apart from one another unless you stagger the spacing on the holes/slots.  The second hole/slot method is to run the loop leather in and out the same hole.  I tried this second method but the loops "wobbled" sideways and didn't look right.  I went back to the "snake" method and had two different spacing, one for the loop holding the bullet and a shorter span on the inside of the belt up to the next loop for a bullet. It looks better but I'd like to learn the in and out the same slot method. Any help appreciated.

Incidentally- I have my Great Grandfather's original rig from the 1880's. It had the "snake" method and the slots were evenly spaced however the loops went all around the belt, holding 30 bullets and the holster was over some of the loops unless you slide the buckle so it is under the holster.  You see old photographs where the belt buckle was slid under the holster. The holster was a double loop. Western Nebraska/S. Dakota/Eastern Wyoming area. Fort Robinson.

[Viking]

I’d really like to see photos of your great grandfather’s old gun leather, if you would not mind posting them.  
 

There is a great book (sadly out of print for a long time); that I was  able to borrow from inter library loan about these old rigs:

Packing Iron: Gunleather of the Frontier West Richard Rattenbury

 

To your question, I have only used the method of a leather strip through the same hole; And I do agree with you they can be slightly “not aligned” look. 

 

[Davm]

I'm sort of computer challenged but I'll see if I can figure out how to post a photo.  I was at an antique gun show many years ago and mentioned the rig to a rep from one of the big auction houses.  He said those in the business called them "Bunkhouse Specials". A local saddle/harness maker would put up these rigs for the local cowboys and townspeople.  The belt edges have a repetitive stamping, in this case a Triangle- along the top and bottom.  The simple loops, the type where the bullets are spaced apart, of the loop leather is snaked in and out. The width of the belt about 2". The buckle nickel plated, it is a center bar with clipped corners.  

[Dwight]

Davm . . . when I make a cowboy gun belt . . . there is only one way I do it . . . in and out the same hole.

I have NEVER had a problem with it.  

I use 6 oz leather (calf leather when I have it) and the holes I punch are 1/16 of an inch smaller in width than the leather I'm pulling thru.

I wet the leather good . . . not sopping wet . . . but much wetter than for tooling . . . and keep it wet throughout the process.

I pull thru the hole . . .  go back . . . and slip a cartridge into the loop . . . pull it tight . . . go on to the next one.

I leave the cartridges in the loops until the loops dry back to natural leather color . . . then gently ease them out to let it finish drying.

When laid down flat . . . my loops gently touch each other.

I can make this belt pretty much as fast as I can sew one . . .  just don't like sewing the things . . . plus I think it is a stronger belt . . . and it looks nicer in my opinion as well.

The picture is my personal cowboy belt . . . some 20+ yrs old . . . laying across the back of a chair.

The other pictures are "how I do it".

May God bless,

Dwight

 

[dikman]

I do it like Dwight, the trick is to keep it damp, as he said. It's much easier than stitching, quicker and no stitches to possibly wear and break.

[RemingtonSteel]

Just flipped through Packing Iron, and it looks to me that the majority of rigs had the shell belts sewn in.  I personally use the same method as Dwight and Dikman (same hole) as I didn't have a sewing machine when I started, and it was easier than hand sewing. As far as wobbly loops, that can be caused by a few things that I can think of off the top of my head. 

1. Leather strap used for the loops is too thin (not enough body).
2. Loops are spaced too far apart (should be close or barely touching).
3. The slots you made are too wide (too much play in the slot).
4. Cartridge too large for this method.

I design my loops so that when the belt is lying flat, the loops are touching.  The reason I do this is that once you put on the belt and it curves around your body, a natural space is created between the loops by the curvature of the belt.  This leads me to another point: Dwight's steps above are spot on, and I do essentially the same, but I do not wet my loop strap nearly as much as Dwight does.  However, I  make sure my belt is not lying flat, but rather has a curve in it when I cinch down each loop. The reason being is that same curve around the body also tends to open up the the loops a bit, so you want them cinched tight while the belt is curved.

One other factor that may determine the method you use, is the size of the cartridge/shell. I think the same slot method looks good/works well on cartridges lower than .45 cal.  My personal opinion is that on .45 cal the loops start to stand too proud off the belt.  The larger the circumference, the more proud they will stand.  Put a strap around a 12 gauge shotgun shell and put it through a slot and you will see what I mean.  IMHO .45 cal will look better if you use separate slots or sew, so that the cartridge lies flat against the belt.

Also once you figure out how to upload photos, it becomes easier.

Edited April 2, 2021 by RemingtonSteel

[MikeRock]

Dave M,

Since your grandpa's stomping ground was so near Cheyenne, was the holster a Menea? 

God bless