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On 4/22/2021 at 11:27 PM, Hags said:

I use 7/8 oz Hermann Oak for my holsters, check my bio and you can see my work. I dye first, sew second, and wet mold last. I do use a  vac set up as does Adam's leather work now. Before I did it all by hand and had very good results. If the leather is too wet, you will never get it to take. Work it in, under a hair dryer on low for 15 - 20 minutes, then bone some more. I get my holsters wet for 10 to 15 seconds, wrap my gun in plastic wrap and seat as deep as I can in the holster then start wet molding.  I use a reinforcing piece on the front so dont worry too much about the ejection port on front. You can lock the gun in if you go to deep on that anyway. I get most of my retention from the trigger guard  on the back side. I use a boner, and one I made from a hoe handle the is a bit thinner on the big end. I also use a smooth pear shade from my tooling set to get a burnished look where I want detail. After that, I use resolene and water 50/50 mix and the burnishing difference all but disappears. 

Hi, hags, I know this is probably going to make me look my age, (computer illiterate) but I can't figure out how to find your bio? I'd like to see some of your work. Thx

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On 4/25/2021 at 10:19 AM, Rahere said:

Click on his name

Thanks Rahere, I realize now I worded that question wrong. I already tried clicking on his name but can't find his photos. When on someone's  bio, where do you find there pics?

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Sorry for responding so late. Crazy busy right now with a new deck and floors going in... I cant understand why you cant see my attachments either. I can see them. Maybe do a search in the show off or holsters sections. Here's a couple of recent ones. The one that looks like a lefty is a SA 1911 and is actually a RH holster. This is the effect of taking a selfie.. the other is a glock 19. Both chest rigs, one is a hiker, trail worker, and the other a hunter. I also just finished one for a SW 629 6" 44 mag. That took a lot of real estate. 

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Not so retired RN. Living on the Washington Peninsula.

 

 

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Really nice job.

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I use 8 oz Wicket and Craig for just about everything (holsters, mag carriers, and double layered belts). I would not recommend going any thinner, especially for a 1911/2011. Patience is your best friend when it comes to wet molding. I dip dye my panels and let dry overnight, then move on to the glueing and stitching phases. Once I'm ready to start wet molding, I submerge in hot water (from the sink, not boiled) for about 10-12 seconds, then place in a Ziploc bag for 3-5 minutes. Pull out of the bag and start smoothing out my sewing machine marks, then open up the holster and insert safe weapon, or dummy gun and go at it. I repeat my process until the crease lines are holding. The wetter the leather is, the less shape it will hold, it keeps expanding back out. Look into "casing leather" for a better understanding. As far as retention, I crease and impress the backside of my trigger guard. Typically all crease lines and impressions are usually darker than the rest of the leather. You can mask it some by airbrushing a light coat of dye over the entire holster after it's dried out, but I rarely do. Never used a vacuum either. Not saying anything bad about them, but they're really not essential. 

Have fun!

Jason

 

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