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Posted
6 hours ago, Rahere said:

Another facet was touched on earlier, about working with intent. Uncertainty shows in an uneven cut. Another facet applies in working with heavier weight leather, where you'll likely notice the flesh side is very different from the surface, positively stringy. It may be wiser then to cut the surface layers, then come back to the lower rhubarb. There can even be a case for cutting it with scissors!

Yes, I've gotten to the point that I won't buy leather that doesn't have a pasted backside.

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22 hours ago, sbrownn said:

Yes, I've gotten to the point that I won't buy leather that doesn't have a pasted backside.

I'm not saying there's no use for such, just recognising thicker leathers can have a remarkable difference in structure between sides, which affects the cutting. I'd chamfer the loose stuff more.

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I'd like to chime in here...

I picked up a piece of aluminum bar stock 1/8" x 4" x 96" (Home Depot) and cut it down to 72". It's an inexpensive option, and what I especially like is the sheer weight and mass help keep it in place.

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2 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

I'd like to chime in here...

I picked up a piece of aluminum bar stock 1/8" x 4" x 96" (Home Depot) and cut it down to 72". It's an inexpensive option, and what I especially like is the sheer weight and mass help keep it in place.

I did almost the same thing, except it was steel, 1 m long, and 30 x 3 mm cross section, or thereabouts (label is in the trash).

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On 5/11/2021 at 7:04 AM, Rahere said:

I'm not saying there's no use for such, just recognising thicker leathers can have a remarkable difference in structure between sides, which affects the cutting. I'd chamfer the loose stuff more.

I have been using Chahin bridle leather from American Leather Direct and with even the heavier weights with a pasted backside there is no "loose stuff" to worry about.  Yes, I do get your point because I have used a lot of different leathers and many do have the "loose" issue even with pasted backsides.  I have not found that to be the case with Chahin bridle leather and that is what I use almost exclusively these days.

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Made two jigs along the way. The first one used a mat cutter and a related  straight edge ruler. The mat cutter head travels on the ruler like a track. Two bolts keep the ruler from sliding around. The cutting blade travels through a groove cut into the board.

I used the cutter handle that came with the ruler at first, then I modified the cutter and made a sliding block that fit the ruler.

My second jig has a 90 degree fence at the top to allow for square cuts.

There are different mat cutters on the market. I believe the cutter traveling on a track is the best way to go. 

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