Adler 169-73 Binding kit

[Freerite]

Hello again,

After some time fixing the binder itself in order to make it pull through the leather, now this is fixed. It pulls the leather as it should and makes the binding. But now I have another problem. The leather the slips on corners and does not get sewn. I have tried fixing this issue as well by cutting off 1 mm from the top side of the binder, it helped a little on the straight sections but continues to slip on corners. Is the problem on my side ( I am not very experienced ) or should I try and find another binder? If yes, any links would be greatly appreciated as I don't find many suppliers here locally. 

[trash treasure]

You mentioned that the binding you're using is stretchy - It may be that the tape is stretching enough to become narrower as it's pulled through the binder, and the effect is amplified at the corners.  Any way you can limit the tape stretch / tension will probably help.

Edited July 22, 2021 by trash treasure

[Freerite]

Hey Trash Treasure ( I was going to just type Trash but it would sound as an insult lol),

Thank you for your comment! I was cutting the fake leather in the wrong direction apparently, I did cut it length wise instead of width wise and now the stretch is a bit less, I guess with some more exercise from my side I will be able to get those edges right (at the moment I get the stich 1mm off the tape so at least it's getting closer to where it should be lol). Wish me luck! 
I want to ask another question which is not related to binding but I thought that it would be better to do it here than opening a new thread. I want to try and do quilted shapes with the same fake leather and  foam. The issue that I am having is that no matter what I try, the raised-relief happens on the wrong side (the foam side instead of the leather side). I tried rotating the position of the materials so that the leather is at the bottom and foam on top but same result. Should I add a third material that will pull the leather and make the quilt on the wanted side? Or is the problem in the tensioning of the thread? 
I am attaching some photos. 
Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help! 

Edited July 26, 2021 by Freerite

[Freerite]

Hello again,

I have managed to get the tension right and now the machine works as it should. I found out that I will most likely not need the binding attachment because I have tried everything to make it work but the work that I want to do is almost impossible to do with the attachment and for now I will stick with doing it by hand. Firstly I sew the back side of the leather to the base and after that I flip the leather and sew close to the edge to get the finished look. This i why I would like to ask the following question: Can somebody explain to me how to make a French seam on the tape as shown on the pictures that I am going to attach? I would be really grateful as I am having a hard time doing it at the moment - the main issue that I have is that the leather gets too thick when I fold it and it cannot go through. 

Any help would be much appreciated!

Regards,
Georgi

 

 

 

Edited August 30, 2021 by Freerite

[trash treasure]

Don't know how you could do it without pre-cutting it and seaming it first , and then tricky feeding through the binder.  

But maybe I'm missing something - I often do....

 

Edited August 30, 2021 by trash treasure

[Michiel]

Have you seen this video?

(and some other ones on his channel)

 

 

[Rob2613]

Hello Freerite, I am glad I found this post. I can but this machine locally (in The Netherlands) for $500,-, but it’s hard to find any information about this specific model. Can you tell me about your experience with this machine? I am making tactical gear , so the machine should be capable of sewing multiple layers of webbing. Do you think this machine is suited for heavier materials? Any more things to consider before I buy this sewing machine? Thank you for your help!

[Freerite]

Hello again!

@trash treasure 
Thanks for the suggestion! But as I said, the binder will not be used as it cannot do the job-I will be doing everything manually. 

@Michiel
Thank you for this video! I have learner a lot from Checaflo and I am really grateful for all those free videos he is uploading. This is a good way to finish it off as well. I was able to find a way to finish the binding with a 'french seam'. I mark the beginning and ending of the stripe and then start sewing 10-15cm away from where the 'french seam' would be. Then when I am near the end I let some 10-15 cm more so that I have the stripe loose and I can then take it and make the seam and then finish off sewing the stripe to the base. It looks pretty neat.

@Rob2613
Hello Rob! Welcome to the forum! I myself am new in sewing as well! I am pretty happy with the machine, it performs well and there is some information on how to tackle some of the problems you might have with it both in this forum and the internet. I have never used a sewing machine before yet I was able to install the binding kit myself, then get it off and also do the timing myself as well (which brings a question I will ask further in this post). I think you will not have any problems sewing heavier materials with this machine as it is intended for such use. I think the maximum thickness it could get is 7mm (although I have sewed thicker but it is an inconvenience both for me and the machine). My advice to you would be to take a good look at the machine before you buy it - it is a quite old machine and if it has had a rough life before you, there might be some issues you might have. There are still parts for this machine, both original and aftermarket so you should be fine but hopefully you won't need any. I think it is quite a robust machine if taken care of and not abused. 

 

Finally, I would like to ask a few questions again. In terms of thread and needle size: I tried using needle number 160 with upper thread size 20 (these are the European sizes, I am not sure the equivalent in US, sorry for that) and bottom thread size 30 and the machine does not want to take it. It gets clogged and the timing gets off. I have tried a couple of times and the result is the same. I have also had the timing go off a couple of more times with thread 30 that I usually work with. Any suggestions why this might happen? Am I doing something wrong? Any info would be greatly appreciated! 

Another question I would like to ask is how to tackle inner corners... I have tried doing cuts on the leather stripe that I bind and also cutting triangles to loosen the tension that there is in the material but I think I am missing something. Whatever I try, I get too much material in there and it gets 'wrinkly' while what I am going after is a consistent smooth edge. I know the problem is that I do not have enough experience but if anybody can guide me on how to approach this problem I would be more than happy to try out your suggestions! I am attaching some photos as well. 

ps. Sorry for the long post and for replying so late!

 

Edited September 19, 2021 by Freerite

[nylonRigging]

8 hours ago, Freerite said:

Another question I would like to ask is how to tackle inner corners... I have tried doing cuts on the leather stripe that I bind and also cutting triangles to loosen the tension that there is in the material but I think I am missing something. Whatever I try, I get too much material in there and it gets 'wrinkly' while what I am going after is a consistent smooth edge. I know the problem is that I do not have enough experience but if anybody can guide me on how to approach this problem I would be more than happy to try out your suggestions! I am attaching some photos as well. 

If your 90 deg. Binder throat feeding is real close and setup to the needle makes easier .

Don't know how supple flexible the material/panel is your binding ? Or if you have internal stiffening added to panel ? . Your Pic. it Looks a little thick but manageable .
Larger inside radius Binding is lot easier . The more difficult tighter smaller ' Inside radius turns ' and Binding, is easier if you can physically grab material inside behind Inside radius turn you working on, With fingers , squeeze make a few small pleats to straighten the curve as you Seam Bind it .

If your panel and has small tight Inside Radius , And you can't manhandle and scrunch material behind the inside radius to straighten little bit . Then you need to really learn ' your technique ' and practice on some practice panels before turning a tight one on the final product .
And it does make a lot easier if your 90Deg. Binder throat is feeding tight to needle . Also maybe ? move to little 'shorter stitch per inch' just on that little inside turn might help keep tape tracking out and smoother . When stitch out of the inside radius, change SPI back to normal before the turn.
.

[nylonRigging]

So the smaller inside turn you making, with stiffer the materials use, it is difficult and can be a pain in ass sometimes . Also there a difference between compound and needle-feed setups Binding, but Basically for both the tighter you can get your setup into and adjusted properly, tight to the needle the easier for the real tight turns.

OK.. doing a .. ( real quick and dirty example here ) . after that last post just made, and just grabbed some heavy vinyl and, putting 1/4" foam in-between .
My single needle cylinder bed has binder taken off for another run n item, and I only have my 2 double-needle flatbeds stringed-up for seam Bind 3/4" type3 .

So quick couple pics. example of, 'scrunching' some small pleats behind the inside radius your turning/taping .
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