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Yeah I realize we all use "different methods".  I'm not criticizing.  Maybe I wasn't specific enough?  I should've asked why.  I would think that when the wallet was open it would place a lot of stress and pull on the interior.  I'm hoping to learn something here.  I'm not arguing.

@mike02130  Instagram

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Posted

Definitely will following along on this one. Always looking for new ideas on organizing my shop. :thumbsup:

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wow, such meticulous work.   What 3D program did you use for the rendering on the first picture?   My oldest is (FINALLY) moving out in (HOPEFULLY) February so I hope to take it over before the wife expands her quilting empire. 

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Posted
5 hours ago, mike02130 said:

Yeah I realize we all use "different methods".  I'm not criticizing.  Maybe I wasn't specific enough?  I should've asked why.  I would think that when the wallet was open it would place a lot of stress and pull on the interior.  I'm hoping to learn something here.  I'm not arguing.

Sorry if it did sound as I was rude. It wasn't my intention.

So I usually glue my wallets around a 10mm thick cutting board, but I only glue edges. This way the wallet folds really nice, and when you open it there is not stress on the exterior/lining, exterior "bulge out" a little bit, and edges open with a slight curve. Most of my wallets are made that way. But I plan to make alligator wallets, and wallets with exterior in other leather that are a little bit softer and some of them "stretchy" so my plan is to glue let's say 0.7mm alligator against ~0.3mm Salamander salpa around a 60 degree curve, and then I will glue this against the lining (only edges) on another jig that is like a cutting board in thickness. (I will show you that jig here when it's finished.) 

Why do I prefer a tighter curve than 90 degree? because I find that 90 degree result in a little bit of wrinkles when exterior and lining is fully glued. And also the wallet wont stay closed (depending on the type of leather) if not put under pressure for a while. And I haven't decided how to make my alligator exteriors yet, but I will probably not fully glue them alone against lining, because I don't want visible scales through lining.

So why do I spend a lot of time making a 60 degree jig, if it may not work? because I have seen other good crafters use 60 degree jigs with good results, so it's a good start for my tests.

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2 hours ago, JayEhl said:

wow, such meticulous work.   What 3D program did you use for the rendering on the first picture?   My oldest is (FINALLY) moving out in (HOPEFULLY) February so I hope to take it over before the wife expands her quilting empire. 

It's Sketchup, and I think I used Twilight render (it's free) or it might have been V-ray, I know I did experiment a little bit with V-ray for a while, but it's quite complicated. Twilight is not that advanced. The skiving machine is just a cropped photo I put in with Photoshop.

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Posted
6 hours ago, Danne said:

So I usually glue my wallets around a 10mm thick cutting board, but I only glue edges

So, your wallets have an "air pocket" inside then?

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Posted
8 hours ago, Hardrada said:

So, your wallets have an "air pocket" inside then?

When they are opened it's a gap between exterior leather and lining yes. I can't see how other crafters that only glue the edges would do it in another way than around something flat. Because it would instantly start to bulge and wrinkle if glued around a degree jig. 

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Posted (edited)

More updates. I didn't get exactly 60 degrees (I measure it to 65 degrees) but it doesn't matter. My setup for routing the chamfer (with a plunge router) wasn't perfect, but at least it's straight, and 60 or 65 degrees doesn't matter.

Plan for the 60 degree fixture:

radius.thumb.JPG.3b278525c28c6ca8c10973b265b73d1f.JPG

A couple of photos of my jigs oiled and drying:

IMG_4211.thumb.JPG.cd80042b458ba49d631d0fe0593d8768.JPG

IMG_4212.thumb.JPG.91bb8ad7bde91b56fd7ce4f550bf25fe.JPG

IMG_4213.thumb.JPG.8ac22110d185cf3cff3f006aab081401.JPG

IMG_4216.thumb.JPG.81743dd18078d610d0a7cd0190609ff4.JPG

 

And a mistake. (My work table slipped away a little bit, and I changed the angle of my router a little bit) I tried to fill this with glue and wood dust, but I didn't get it deep enough so I sanded it away once dried. When the oil is completely dried, I will sand it down slightly and try to fix this better before the next layer of oil. 

IMG_4215.thumb.JPG.a7367483520b9358f50da2e954935be1.JPG

 

Edited by Danne
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Posted

I sure wish you had not posted the jigs, now I have to get to work on my own. Everything is looking good.:yeah:

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Posted
29 minutes ago, rleather said:

I sure wish you had not posted the jigs, now I have to get to work on my own. Everything is looking good.:yeah:

Thank you. Of course I have no clue what tools you have access too. But the only machines I have are a plunge router and a circle saw and drill press.

If your situation are the same and you plan to do a 60 degree jig. This is how I did the setup for the chamfer. (Not the correct bit in this photo) I did route the radii before.

 

IMG_4186.thumb.jpg.9d83c4c15e8659e0aac61203242e6b55.jpg

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