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  • Members
Posted

Hi,

i'm not sure what's the term for it, so i am just going to use "leather fiber" for now..

basically, when i am about to finish my leather edges, i notice that for most parts, i am able to get the 2 or more layers sandwiched nicely (sanded nice and even).. however, i do get small portions of the edge, that just seem to not be able to be flattened down nicely, and looks like the leather fiber at that part is is uncompressed or loose. any glue or tape at that area is still there, between the 2 pieces of leather, but the fiber just behind the adhesive just loosens up.

it happen whether i use contact glue, or double sided tissue tape.. it happens rarely between 2 vegtan pieces, but fairly often if one piece is goat or some other leather (in my current case, its nubuck). 

the nicer parts can get burnished  with edge wax. bees wax or paraffin wax, or more recently with the Crimson OEM fileteuse, but that loose fiber is giving me some headache..

i'll try to get a picture of what i mean later on tonight (my time)

  • Members
Posted

Have you tried progressively finer sandpaper to get the loose fiber off? My shop says to rub only in one direction... And then Tokonole or similar to glue the fibres together and lots of elbow grease for polishing.

  • Members
Posted

i have already sanded it, but its not actually fiber sticking out, but more of a loose edge..i have tried tokonole (similar) on other projects, and it doesnt really work, though i never actually compressed it after application..

  • Members
Posted

sciving it may help, before sanding.  Still not sure where the fibers are if not on the edge.

  • Members
Posted

If your edges are as rough as shown in the photo there is something wrong.  That won't happen if you use gum trag or Tokonole.  

  • Members
Posted
5 hours ago, canonitr said:

i have already sanded it, but its not actually fiber sticking out, but more of a loose edge..i have tried tokonole (similar) on other projects, and it doesnt really work, though i never actually compressed it after application..

If you just paint on the Tokonole it won't do anything, it's the rubbing that's important. 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I've been following this and thinking about it.

The only time I had leather like the example was a piece of chrome-tan upholstery leather. I still have some of it. The only way I got around the 'loose fibres' was, after cutting nearly to size I liberally applied some contact glue and rubbed it in. Then after gluing to the other pieces and/or after sewing I cut down to size, thus cutting through the glued down fibres

  • Members
Posted
2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

If your edges are as rough as shown in the photo there is something wrong.  That won't happen if you use gum trag or Tokonole.  

This was taken from the internet.. not my edge..

 

3 minutes ago, fredk said:

I've been following this and thinking about it.

The only time I had leather like the example was a piece of chrome-tan upholstery leather. I still have some of it. The only way I got around the 'loose fibres' was, after cutting nearly to size I liberally applied some contact glue and rubbed it in. Then after gluing to the other pieces and/or after sewing I cut down to size, thus cutting through the glued down fibres

I think the piece I have is chrome tanned too. Though it seems it’s not the type of tanning that is the root cause..

  • Members
Posted

I have a couple of questions.

How does the flesh side of your leather look? is it very "furry"?

How do you apply contact cement? a thin layer on both pieces and let it dry until tacky?

If you don't flush cut your edge and sand it, do you instantly start to sand after glue? and what direction do you sand along the edge or across the edge?

Do you hammer down or press the edges after gluing together?

  • Members
Posted
Just now, Danne said:

I have a couple of questions.

How does the flesh side of your leather look? is it very "furry"?

How do you apply contact cement? a thin layer on both pieces and let it dry until tacky?

If you don't flush cut your edge and sand it, do you instantly start to sand after glue? and what direction do you sand along the edge or across the edge?

Do you hammer down or press the edges after gluing together?

pics please

  • Members
Posted

Canonitr said...

"This was taken from the internet.. not my edge.."

 

I realize that.  I read the post.  But if your edge resembles that, which is why you posted it, then there is something wrong.  Like I said.

  • Members
Posted
22 minutes ago, Danne said:

From me?

lol. no.  From original poster....I thought you were the OP, but when I scrolled up, I realized you weren't.  Sorry for the confusion.

  • Members
Posted

Looking for one example.. might have thrown it into scrap pile…

Posted

The only way I would be doing this would be by using an edge paint. You let the first coat or 2 soak in and fill all the voids and then start sanding or sometimes using an iron to smooth out the roughness before applying some further coats. Some people use PVA wood glue as well but I think that would depend on the end use application taking into account the amount of flexing it needs to withstand and so on.

  • Members
Posted
On 9/26/2021 at 5:18 PM, RockyAussie said:

The only way I would be doing this would be by using an edge paint. You let the first coat or 2 soak in and fill all the voids and then start sanding or sometimes using an iron to smooth out the roughness before applying some further coats. Some people use PVA wood glue as well but I think that would depend on the end use application taking into account the amount of flexing it needs to withstand and so on.

Thanks . I couldn’t find the pieces that I had .. but what I did do was get base coat and edge paint

834C6491-B4B9-406C-868C-4E3918BAAB4F.jpeg

  • Members
Posted

I got Ledafil Super as base coat , and orly bt extramat as edge paint, though I am actually using wuta for the above .. 

I also have some basco edge coat in clear (https://www.goodsjapan.com/basco-leathercraft-edge-coat-brown-leather-edge-dye-dressing-kote-finish/a-20161) and wonder if I could use it as base for painting as well.. seems to dry to the same as the ledafil

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