ADLER 105 REBUILD HELP!

[TheMackinaw]

Hi folks!

Thomas from London, England here.

I have recently purchased an Adler 105-64 and did a re-build. (before and after pics below)

- New tension apparatus
- Replaced foot
- Reconfigured the base
- New table top (40mm ply)
- Leather motor belt
- New sash chain
- Sanded and re-lacquered flywheel
- Replaced broken German style wing nuts
- Re-sprayed the Adler logo
- 1hp Red Sun servo motor
- Original EDL machine lamp

 

I am struggling to learn more about this machine as online information seems to be limited.

 

Does anyone have any information on the following please?:

- How to correctly thread the machine through the tensioning system

- How to correctly load and thread the shuttle bobbin

- Thread tensioning adjustments

- Parts that fit! Like alternative feet and attachments

 

Any help on this glorious machine would be much appreciated,

Thank you,

Thomas

Edited October 10, 2021 by TheMackinaw

[kgg]

34 minutes ago, TheMackinaw said:

- How to correctly thread the machine through the tensioning system

- How to correctly load and thread the shuttle bobbin

- Thread tensioning adjustments

- Parts that fit! Like alternative feet and attachments

I think the CowBoy CB105 / 2500 / 3200 are threaded similar to the Adler 105.

kgg

[Northmount]

@TheMackinaw Moved your post to leather sewing machines.  Lots of visitors in this part of the forum

Welcome to LW.

[Kawakneurder]

9 hours ago, TheMackinaw said:

How to correctly thread the machine through the tensioning system

- How to correctly load and thread the shuttle bobbin

- Thread tensioning adjustments

This stuff should be available in the user manual of the machine. Have you tried sending durköpp adler (or your local official DA distributor) an email? They are generally very helpful with questions and are willing to send the service manual for any machine they still have information on.

[Tejas]

Here is a link to a manual. Large file (about 15 mb), all text in several languages.

https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Manuals_Adler/Manual_Adler_104_105.pdf

Manual_Adler_104_105.pdf

Edited October 10, 2021 by Northmount
Uploaded file here

[Cumberland Highpower]

I don't think you'll find much more than manuals online.  The successor was the 205-64 and it has allot in common including the presser feet.  I happen to have a 205-64.

I believe the 105 uses the 328 needles?

Now the shuttles and bobbins for your machine are pretty easy to find and the same as a singer 45.  Ebay is full of Chinese replacements.

When it comes to presser feet, it's a little tighter market.  In today's world,  there are not many feet made now for the 105/205-64. In 1965 there were many types available for all kinds of work.  You'll have to keep a close eye on this forum's postings and Ebay. Almost none of the attachments listed in the 105 manual above can be found today new, although over the years you made pick a couple odd pieces here and there up at flea markets or online.

On my 205-64 (Same feet at yours)  I have about 4.  One is a Juki 421 foot that I  recently bought, milled out a little deeper in the needle slot and trimmed the toes back.  Works great but not a bolt on out of the box proposition.   I think some feet from a couple of the Chinese Coyboys might be workable. You'd have call Bob Kovar on that.  I do know he sells a Chinese Roller "Foot" that fits your machine.

The 105-64 is really a great machine although it does have some limitations compared to the newer Unison feed type machines.   Back in the day the 105 was a common staple among leatherworkers.

Edited October 12, 2021 by Cumberland Highpower

[TheMackinaw]

Guys, thanks so much for taking the time to comment, really means a lot.

Thanks to Northmount for moving the post - much obliged.

Thanks to KGG for the heads up on CowBoy - have sent them a message.

Thanks, Kawakneurder - I will drop durköpp adler a line, 

Tejas - thank you, will also use that manual.

Cumberland Highpower - much appreciated on the insight, thank you. Will check out CowBoy and the Singer 45 bobbin.

 

One thing I don't get is the tension system.

The thread goes around the middle of the tensioning system 1.5 times (after going through the top tension spring plates) but the tightening of the lower tension spring doesn't make any difference to the tension of the thread - it just rolls around the middle section despite how tight or lose it is.

Is the upper tension spring supposed to control the tension itself? Or am I missing something. Any thoughts on this would be ace.

 

Thanks all! Humbled by the quick and detailed response.

 

Thomas

 

[Constabulary]

Thomas - are you sure all parts / components in the lower tension unit are present - I´m not sure but it looks incomplete (see picture) and maybe the spring is too weak as well?

This is a TU from a Singer 45K but the components are the same (though not interchangeable) - see link:

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/87669-missing-lower-tension-assembly-on-singer-45k58/?do=findComment&comment=598650

The 2 disc are not just plain washers the center hole has a flat side (just as the post) to prevent the discs from spinning.

Then tension comes from the friction between the pulley and the felt washers and the 2 disc so when the 2 discs are spinning you have less friction meaning less thread tension. Thats at least my understanding of the lower tension unit.

EDIT:

However - on my 45D91 I added a heavier spring to the top tension and control the thread tension that way. I also don´t do the 1.5 time wrap but thats trial and error just figure what works best for you.

Nice setup BTW - i like the color of the stand!

Edited October 12, 2021 by Constabulary

[TheMackinaw]

Thanks Constabulary! that is very helpful to know the tension system is the same as the Singer 45k also.

I believe it is the right tension part - going off original photographs I just need to make sure I can work out how to use it correctly.

And thanks for the kind words on the set up - the stand is a real nice old green hammerite colour - super heavy duty. 2mm steel. weighs as much as the head! without the ply!

[Cumberland Highpower]

I see you're spooled up with 3 different colors/types of thread, but you never mentioned what you plan to make with your 105?

[TheMackinaw]

I am working with 24oz 100% cotton canvas. Making heavy canvas and leather bags. Old fashioned style.

I make belts also, working up to wallets.

Thanks for your help guys.

T

[Adekunle]

Hi folks. I bought an Adler 105-64 yesterday; it had been in storage for years.  The bobbin pops right out after a few stitches.I thought it might have to do with the bobbin case and change it but the same thing occurred, this time breaking the needle! I suspect this may  have something to do with the timing. Does anyone have advice/suggestions for me, please? Also, will a speed reducer work on this machine? I make mainly belts and need slower speeds than what the motor currently offers.

[shoepatcher]

I have the parts list and the operations manual for the 105-64.  Only in hard copy though.

glenn

[Cumberland Highpower]

21 hours ago, Adekunle said:

Hi folks. I bought an Adler 105-64 yesterday; it had been in storage for years.  The bobbin pops right out after a few stitches.I thought it might have to do with the bobbin case and change it but the same thing occurred, this time breaking the needle! I suspect this may  have something to do with the timing. Does anyone have advice/suggestions for me, please? Also, will a speed reducer work on this machine? I make mainly belts and need slower speeds than what the motor currently offers.

probably an out of time issue but an easy fix. look on youtube you'll find lots of videos.  

You might not need a speed reducer for belts if you practice a little.  I still have machines without a speed reducer and I learned long ago how to feather the clutch to get slower speeds. A speed reducer will work just fine.  If you buy a box type it will be easier to replace without changing much....

[Constabulary]

probably the small curved leaf spring which holds the bobbin housing in the shuttle frame is worn or the screw that holds the spring in place is loose. Remove the shuttle hook from the machine and swing the bobbin housing aside and the check the spring and screw.

Just a guess w/o having seen pictures.

Edited September 6, 2022 by Constabulary

[joseramon]

Te sugiero que cambies la polea por una más pequeña así reduce la velocidad y te acostumbres al embrague del motor alinea bien el garfio con el tiempo y altura de la aguja y ve mirando la tensión del hilo 

[Wizcrafts]

11 hours ago, joseramon said:

Te sugiero que cambies la polea por una más pequeña así reduce la velocidad y te acostumbres al embrague del motor alinea bien el garfio con el tiempo y altura de la aguja y ve mirando la tensión del hilo 

This translates in to English as the following:

I suggest you change the pulley for a smaller one so slow down and get used to the engine clutch align the grapple well over time

[Constabulary]

@Adekunle

 

On 9/5/2022 at 2:22 AM, Adekunle said:

Hi folks. I bought an Adler 105-64 yesterday; it had been in storage for years.  The bobbin pops right out after a few stitches.I thought it might have to do with the bobbin case and change it but the same thing occurred, this time breaking the needle! I suspect this may  have something to do with the timing. Does anyone have advice/suggestions for me, please? Also, will a speed reducer work on this machine? I make mainly belts and need slower speeds than what the motor currently offers.

not sure if you read the latest comments above but maybe showing a video of when / in what situation the bobbin pops out will be helpful. For me it is hard to imagine why and when a bobbin pops out of an oscillating shuttle hook.

Edited September 10, 2022 by Constabulary