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TheDavidLeathermanShow

Taurus cylinder arm machine

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Hello all,

anyone out there familiar with the Taurus brand sewing machines??? It’s a model jk2628 . I am told it’s a clone of the       
juki ls-341. I have searched the interweb near and far and I can’t seem to find hardly anything about Taurus brand machines.

any knowledge would be greatly appreciated 

thanks

 

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That Taurus looks like a clone of a Pfaff 335 binder machine. But, the drop down edge guide suggests that is is used for normal stitching too. To do this requires a needle plate over the feed dog. You would be wise to go and test the machine to see if it properly feeds the leather or other material you want to sew. It should get at least 5 stitches per inch, or longer, into 1/8 inch of thickness.

Other than that, it looks to be in great condition and has a digital servo motor. Unfortunately, the pictures don't have a closeup of the feed area from slightly above to see if there is a needle plate over the feed dog.

 

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Thanks wizcrafts greatly appreciate your knowledge. I have been hand sewing for the past 2 years as a hobby and this would be my first machine purchase. I’m going later today to look in person. If the leather doesn’t feed properly when tested, what can I do or need to get to make it feed veg-tan properly?

also wiz do you have any idea what the thread size capabilities or needle size range would be for this machine?

thanks

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Here are some up close pics of the feed dog

10369794-3D74-4991-92BF-EF510B961EA1.jpeg

24B3D1A6-CA86-4AF8-998A-3B63A04AD449.jpeg

86DD377E-5C62-428E-84C9-C7B4632623EA.jpeg

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It is set up for binding but missing the actual binder and tape spool holder.

To do straight stitching, you are going to have to buy a regular needle plate, feed dog, feet and that black arm cover that I cannot remember the correct term for. Maybe more parts need to be replaced. Wizcraft will tell.

Edited by DrmCa

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4 hours ago, TheDavidLeathermanShow said:

I have been hand sewing for the past 2 years as a hobby and this would be my first machine purchase.

You have not mentioned what you are sewing. The machine does look in good overall shape and maybe missing some parts. I would ask from what dealer they bought the machine from as getting those parts may prove to be difficult. The main question I would ask is it suitable to properly sew your items in the thread size and thickness that you need/want.

kgg

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Yep, it's set up for binding but it's missing the actual tape feeder. You should ask if they have the fitting. It will do straight sewing like that but it's not ideal, you will need the two feet, needle plate and feed dog to do it properly. I bought mine (for an old casting Pfaff 335) from KwokHing. It will be best suited to #69 thread.

It looks to be in very good condition, my guess would be that they bought it as a binder and then used it for straight stitching but as it's not ideal for that (as set up) didn't use it much or decided to get a proper straight stitcher. You should also ask if they have the instructions for the servo.

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It's worth asking whether it is a 110 or 220 V motor.

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Hello all sorry for the delayed response here’s what I got out of today….so I seen what seemed like a decent on the local Craigslist. I myself have wanted a cylinder are sewing machine for about the last 18months or so. Anyways I seen it and jumped on it because of the price. I’m embarrassed to say but after all the research I’ve done online from cobra to cowboy, and juki to consew/techsew/ and beyond I never really looked at the online photos in detail I just read the specs on them and what all was included. So like a dummy I bought a binding machine and didn’t know it. The seller was a young lady who claims to be a bag making apprentice and has multiple machines and didn’t need this machine because it sewed too heavy for the materials she worked with. She assured me it was in storage for a few years with hardly any use.she said it was a juki 341 clone. So I get home with my new to me machine. Take some pics and post on here trying to get help on what exactly it is a clone of. I needed thread and needles so I started poking around online and I find neels saddlery shop somewhat local to me. Called up Ryan talked about my situation, he tells me bring it in right away and he will help me not only with what I have but give me a quick teaching session! So I load the head up in my work van and head over. So right away Ryan takes it apart, inspects it, cleans it and find a load of issues! The needle bar and bobbin hook/case are both out of time making the needle make contact with the hook. He custom made a bobbin hook and basket out of pieces from mine and a new one. Got it fixed and back in time, fine tuned and sewing well. So it matches up with an Atlas AT2628 so I’m going to look for conversion parts.

Dikman how does the feed dog work on the conversion? As it was drives it? The binding machine I bought today has the vibrating plate and my feed dog just slides front to back, so i guess what i am asking is how do I get the feed dog to do the up/down circular motion? And please by all means guys feel free to correct me on my lingo, anybody want to give me an education i am all ears. Just a young guy trying to learn an old trade.

I can’t thank you guys and Ryan an mike  over at Neels saddlery enough! 

thanks guys!

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Sewed too heavy for bags? Sounds a bit strange to me. A guess would be the timing went out and she couldn't fix it (maybe made it worse?) so probably just left it sitting there. The feed dog on my Pfaff only moves back and forth, even with the new dog. The machine isn't designed to do anything else. I think I read somewhere that the newer model can be swapped out to oscillate up and down but it wouldn't be a simple modification if that's true. With the changed parts mine worked well as a straight stitcher, its limitation being clearance under the feet (5/16"), although by re-adjusting things I got 3/8" and #138 thread -  but it wasn't too happy with it. Bear in mind mine is the "older" model 335, I believe the newer one (which looks like yours) may have 3/8" under the feet and can handle #138.

As for rushing in and buying the wrong machine you're no orphan there!! I've bought and sold a few machines to get to the stage where what I have should cover all my needs. The subject of industrial sewing machines, and all the variations therein, is quite a complex field.

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So when I got home I had to try it out. I was able to get 2 layers of 8-10oz veg-tan under the foot with little room to go. Loaded up some 138 and it went right thru like butter no problem at all. That is as thick as I need to go for the projects I do currently.
Although I am having trouble with the speed of the machine, the paper I got with it for the Servo motor says it 1000-3800rpm and the readout says 10 so I’m assuming it’s x100. Very slight pressure on the pedal and it takes off like a roadrunner! I don’t know if I need a servo with slower settings or a gear reducer?

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35 minutes ago, TheDavidLeathermanShow said:

Very slight pressure on the pedal and it takes off like a roadrunner! I don’t know if I need a servo with slower settings or a gear reducer?

Yep, get a 2:1 or 3:1 speed reducer.

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Hey Wiz will a 3:1 get me down to a slow crawl? With my skill level, the slower the better! Also is there any brand of speed reducers i should go with?

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I think the "father" of this machine rather is a Nakajima 380 with slightly different casting I´d say.

TAURUS 2628 Its another Chinese made machine with a "brand sticker" on it - like Atlas and many others. Just google:  2628 cylinder arm sewing machine

And check the pictures. But that does not mean it is a bad machine. if the price is right I´d buy it. I´m sure you can convert it to a plain sewing machine. I would guess JUKI DSC 245 parts would fit here.

I would go with a 1:3 Speed reducer the slower the better and if you need more speed you can dial it in on the Servo motor.

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8 hours ago, TheDavidLeathermanShow said:

So it matches up with an Atlas AT2628 so I’m going to look for conversion parts.

This video if it is similar to the Atlas AT2628 will help with you do the conversion with a couple of nice closeups.  www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MZjEKvDuQY

8 hours ago, TheDavidLeathermanShow said:

So like a dummy I bought a binding machine and didn’t know it.

I think a lot of us have made a mistake or two over the years.

kgg

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9 hours ago, TheDavidLeathermanShow said:

Very slight pressure on the pedal and it takes off like a roadrunner!

Or sell it and get a different servo. My Family 550Wt is slow at its lowest setting.

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This makes two members in one week who mistakenly bought Pfaff 335 style binding machines thinking they were standard cylinder arm machines. I would advise you to post pictures and ask before buying a similar machine if you are looking at buying a used cylinder arm machine off some local ad, or auction site. If you see one advertised by a dealer, ask questions first.

Binder machines are specifically built and equipped to sew edge binding onto material, like seat covers and sports gear and bags. They are not equipped to do "normal" sewing without changing out or adding some often times expensive parts. Off-brand machines may be even harder to change over if standard parts don't fit.

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Hey Wiz will a 3:1 get me down to a slow crawl? With my skill level, the slower the better! Also is there any brand of speed reducers i should go with? And wiz you are correct I am kicking myself in the hind-end for not waiting. I think for now I am going to get a 3:1 speed reducer set up and live with it. It sews and feeds great right with the binding set up, although it’s not ideal I will live with it til I save up enough pennies to get a correct machine. Ryan had some cowboy machines in his shop and boy are they sweet!  When the time comes I will try and sell the Taurus and get some cheddar back. Hopefully I can come close to breaking even on it…. And whoever made the same mistake as I did I must say I feel your pain! I’ve learned an expensive lesson on patience 

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Kgg thank you for the YouTube link that helps greatly!

much appreciated!

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A 3:1 reducer, and a small pulley (2") on the servo should make it much more manageable. I went through the same process to slow my machines down. Another option is to replace the handwheel with a large pulley, which will have the same effect. When I bought my 335 it was set up as a binder, and at that point in my "education" I had no idea about what that was. I bought it with another machine because the guy wanted it gone and I got it dirt cheap ($250 Aus)! After much experimenting, and learning, I've gone back to using it as a binder, so don't write off yours just yet as you may find it useful down the track.

And see how much you've learned in just a short time.;)

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Knowledge is key! sometimes it’s free and sometimes an education is expensive haha.

being able to hang out at Ryan Neels shop for a few hours while he worked on my machine. I was able to stand over his shoulder and learn a lot and I am so thankful for that!!!

dikman if my ol’lady wasn't on my hind-end all the time I’d have 4 or 5 machines that I’ve had my eyes on hahah 

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6 hours ago, TheDavidLeathermanShow said:

Hey Wiz will a 3:1 get me down to a slow crawl? With my skill level, the slower the better! Also is there any brand of speed reducers i should go with?

A 3:1 reducer will reduce your motor speed to 1/3rd whatever it is at the motor pulley. If your motor starts with a jerk at 100 rpm, it would start with a jerk at 33.33 rpm with the reducer. I've had motors like that and got rid of them, replacing them with Family Sew FS-550S servo motors with 2 inch pulleys and speed reducers.

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Wiz thanks for the link.

I live here in ohio, so for me Toledo is only a few hours away. I may have to make the drive over and check it out

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