Finishing wallets

[Meandmy1963]

Hello. This is going to be a matter of opinion as there are so many options here. So I'm making a bunch of wallets for everyone for Xmas and I'm curious as to what type of finish I should use or rather what you all would use for a wallet. I'll give some background. The leather I'm using is a veg tan Korba buffalo calf from buckleguy. I'm getting the leather pre dyed (black and another color). Likely I'll burnish the edges with tokonole and beeswax. I guess I'm looking for a decent sheen, the more "luxurious" the better I guess (whatever "luxurious" means to you). What do you guys like to use? What oils do you guys like? Neatsfoot? Mink? So my plan is to use an oil like mink or neatsfoot then finish with tan kote unless someone has a better idea. I think that will be the look and feel that I'm going for. If anyone has any ideas that will help or even just some helpful info on what Im planning to use that would be great. Or even if you have a better idea all together. I'm all ears. Thank you for your time

[Tugadude]

Compared to others here I have very, very limited experience. Having said that,  I would not use a "finish" if you interpret that to mean a "film-forming" coating like Tan-Kote or Resolene.  I'm assuming that you aren't tooling the wallets because you say they are being dyed black.  Tooled wallets with antiquing, etc. should probably always get some sort of finish.

What I like to do if I want to bring a little sheen to the leather is to use carnauba cream.  I apply it, allow it to dry and then I buff it with a soft rag or if I have it, sheep's wool.  There are synthetic lambs wool pads available but I've never tried them.  I don't think there is any potential negative to this especially since you are using black leather.  If it is a lighter color be prepared for it to darken a bit.  Different leathers are affected differently.

As you said, it is a matter of opinion.  It works for me and it doesn't create a film that could change over time and/or need re-applying.

[seasidesunflower]

I'm also still learning, but might have a couple of suggestions. 

Guessing that you aren't tooling since the leather is predyed. 

Even with predyed leather, it might be smart to put a small test amount in a pocket of a pair of pants you don't care about and leave it while doing daily life. Sometimes that dye can bleed and you don't want ruin family/friends/customer's clothes or purses. 

For a matte sheen, that is semi water resistant, try tan kote on a test piece and see how you like it. If you would like something much more water resistant and with a higher gloss/ sheen, try Resolene. 

I have not used it, so I cannot personally vouch for it, but I know a lot of makers swear by Sheridan RTC. 

As far as oils, I prefer olive oil and neatsfoot, but I tool almost everything that leaves my shop. Mink oil almost feels too greasy for me so I only use it for water resisting my husband's boots. Maybe I need to switch up my brand though. 

Your burnishing idea seems like it would get very glossy, especially if you sand your edges as well.  

Whatever you choose, I highly recommend testing it out and putting the test piece into use for a day or so.  Best of luck!

[Meandmy1963]

You're both correct in assuming that I will not be tooling. I will definitely be doing a test on a piece of leather before I put anything on a finished product. I guess I will just do that. Test out a few things on scrap pieces and carry it around for a day or two to see what happens

[Tugadude]

The dye transferring to clothing, skin, etc. might be a concern.  Glad somebody brought that aspect up.  I think you could easily confirm if that's going to be the case using a test piece.  I always do a good job of buffing things after I dye them to remove anything that's going to come off of the surface.  I rarely have any dye come off when applying the carnauba or after it has dried and I begin buffing.  But that doesn't mean it couldn't happen.  

I second the recommendation to do some testing.

[mike02130]

Mink, neatsfoot oils and tan kote are not suggested for aniline dyed leather.  They will only change or ruin the color and are simply not necessary.  Pre dyed leather from the tannery only needs wax.   Saphir Medaille D'or 1925 Pate De Luxe Neutral Wax is probably the best wax.  Feiblings makes a decent liquid wax.  Bees wax is hard and sticky.  It is best used on items such as sheaths, holsters and the like.  Paraffin wax is easier to apply and has oils in it and will take a better polish.  It's not necessary but I like to melt it in.  I use an electric edge creaser to melt it into the edge.  You could use a hot butter knife.  Finish off with a piece of canvas or a rag from a pair of jeans.  The Korba leather has a matte finish.  It doesn't really patina but with use it gets more shiny.  The flesh side may be smooth or fuzzy or both.  The red is nice but the other colors are so so.  Use Tokonole and a glass burnisher on the the backside.

Rub a bit of the Saphir on the leather with your finger, let it dry for 15 minutes, overnight is better, then polish with a horse hair brush for best results.  A bit of spit or a spritz of ice water helps.

 

Edited November 17, 2021 by mike02130
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