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AzShooter

Trying to sew a mitered corner. Any help

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I'm working on a box from The Art Of Leatherwork Volume II and there is a box that needs to be gouged to a 45 degree angle and the stitched together.  I've destroyed two awls so far tying to go through 9 ounce leather.

I can make the angle using veg tan leather but couldn't do it to the main job on the corners of the bag since it's real soft Buffalo skin

Can  anyone give me a hint on how to sew a mitered box?

Appreciate it.

 

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can you post a picture of the project. Might make it easier to see what the problem is 

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I would be already happy with more precise written information: Is the problem that you can't poke your awl through the leather? Then sharpening the awl might help.

Or is the problem that you can't miter your leather? Then you either have the wrong leather for the job or your knife is not sharp enough.

Btw, which book are you talking about?  I can't find The Art of Leatherwork, never mind a volume 2...

 

 

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This maybe of some use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2ygboFnHW0

Hope this helps

JCUK

 

Edited by jcuk

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9 hours ago, AzShooter said:

I'm working on a box from The Art Of Leatherwork Volume II and there is a box that needs to be gouged to a 45 degree angle and the stitched together.  I've destroyed two awls so far tying to go through 9 ounce leather.

I can make the angle using veg tan leather but couldn't do it to the main job on the corners of the bag since it's real soft Buffalo skin

Can  anyone give me a hint on how to sew a mitered box?

Appreciate it.

 

what are you sewing it on/in ?  i use a wooden form when sewing small boxes or cups. Are you pre punching your stitch holes through the soft stuff? do you mean The Art of making leather cases volume 2?

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20 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

what are you sewing it on/in ?  i use a wooden form when sewing small boxes or cups. Are you pre punching your stitch holes through the soft stuff? do you mean The Art of making leather cases volume 2?

Yes, you have the right name of the book.  I was going by memory and didn't get it right.

I guess I need to make it on a block of wood.  I've just glued it together and trying to stitch it.

I watched a video last night of someone doing a binocular case and they didn't need a wood block, they just pushed the needle through the leather.  I may not be strong enough to push through the leather.  I'm only 70 but not as strong as I use to be.

I'm not pre punching.  That's probably what I need to do before I gouge the leather.  I tried after gouging but the chisel just slips.

Thanks for the ideas.  That really give me an idea of what to do next. 

 

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2 hours ago, jcuk said:

This maybe of some use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2ygboFnHW0

Hope this helps

JCUK

 

Thanks JCUK.  That's what I was looking for.  

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3 hours ago, Klara said:

I would be already happy with more precise written information: Is the problem that you can't poke your awl through the leather? Then sharpening the awl might help.

Or is the problem that you can't miter your leather? Then you either have the wrong leather for the job or your knife is not sharp enough.

Btw, which book are you talking about?  I can't find The Art of Leatherwork, never mind a volume 2...

I was wrong.  It's The Art Of Making Leather Cases volume 2.

I had no problem mitering the veg tan leather.  I couldn't do the buffalo that I'm using because the leather is too soft even though it's 9 - 10 ounce.

My awls are sharp.  I'm using new ones.  I will try to sharpen them more.

Thanks for the help.

 

 

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1 hour ago, AzShooter said:

Yes, you have the right name of the book.  I was going by memory and didn't get it right.

I guess I need to make it on a block of wood.  I've just glued it together and trying to stitch it.

I watched a video last night of someone doing a binocular case and they didn't need a wood block, they just pushed the needle through the leather.  I may not be strong enough to push through the leather.  I'm only 70 but not as strong as I use to be.

I'm not pre punching.  That's probably what I need to do before I gouge the leather.  I tried after gouging but the chisel just slips.

Thanks for the ideas.  That really give me an idea of what to do next. 

 

good luck I also use an old wine cork on the back side to push my awl against, it saves fingers and gives the leather some back pressure so it doesn't move.

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Here's an idea, I used this method

1. cut the pieces over wide, on each side which is to be sewn

2. on the inside, draw a line for the actual width, where the excess will be cut off

3. cut just outside of the actual size line and bevel the edge, trimming back to the actual size line

4. mark your stitch spacing on the bevel

5. use a round scratch awl to poke holes at your stitching points, in the centre of the bevel but angle the scratch awl so that it is at a right angle to the bevel surface  It should come out on the grain side/outside of the piece about 2mm (= half the thickness of your leather) further in, or further in if you desire

6. After doing #3 on the next piece I put it up against the other piece to mark the stitch spacing, to get them the same. I use a pen to mark the two edges to go together, eg, A & A, B & B etc. I mark this on the bevelled surface so its hidden when all is glued up

7. When I glue up the edges I slide a straightened paper clip into and through a couple of sets of holes to keep it all aligned

8. with the holes premade I use a curved sewing awl to open up the holes and curved saddlers harness needles for the sewing

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46 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

good luck I also use an old wine cork on the back side to push my awl against, it saves fingers and gives the leather some back pressure so it doesn't move.

Thanks I'll try that.

45 minutes ago, fredk said:

Here's an idea, I used this method

1. cut the pieces over wide, on each side which is to be sewn

2. on the inside, draw a line for the actual width, where the excess will be cut off

3. cut just outside of the actual size line and bevel the edge, trimming back to the actual size line

4. mark your stitch spacing on the bevel

5. use a round scratch awl to poke holes at your stitching points, in the centre of the bevel but angle the scratch awl so that it is at a right angle to the bevel surface  It should come out on the grain side/outside of the piece about 2mm (= half the thickness of your leather) further in, or further in if you desire

6. After doing #3 on the next piece I put it up against the other piece to mark the stitch spacing, to get them the same. I use a pen to mark the two edges to go together, eg, A & A, B & B etc. I mark this on the bevelled surface so its hidden when all is glued up

7. When I glue up the edges I slide a straightened paper clip into and through a couple of sets of holes to keep it all aligned

8. with the holes premade I use a curved sewing awl to open up the holes and curved saddlers harness needles for the sewing

FredK

Good information.  I've printed out your instructions and will give it a try.

 

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I have found that Al Stohlman's instructions work - as long as I follow them. Trouble starts when I try to improve on them  or cut corners.

So in your place I would re-read the book, if necessary previous books as well and then do exactly as Stohlman says.

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Klara:

Thanks for that advice.  I had to order one of the previous books and I'm hoping it will be here next week.  Following his lessons will help.

I did manage to make a small 2 X 2 box today for practice.  Still have a long way to go but now I understand it a bit more.  At least I didn't have any trouble with my English Edger.  Got the angle right.

I figure a few more practice boxes before I make one for my briefcase project.

 

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Best of luck! And yes, it's always a good idea to practice with small items before starting a big project and making big mistakes...

I'm off to correct a major, idiotic and unnecessary mistake that can only be explained by too much alkohol over Christmas...

 

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