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On 12/29/2021 at 3:42 PM, Kovant said:

I will look at the second hand market and Seiko CW.

A consideration to keep in mind is the maximum size needle the machine can handle which in turn will determine the maximum size thread you can use in the machine. The 335 class (Seiko CW's) max out with a #22 (140 metric) needle which will limit you to V92 (Tkt 30) thread.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

@Kovant- Take a look at this thread and needle chart. It will give you an idea about the diameter and strengths of various "sizes" of sewing threads and their recommended needle sizes. As a hand sewer you are probably used to using thread ranging from .5 to 1 mm diameter. While that is a typical range for hand sewing it is not typical for sewing machines. 0.5mm thread equates to #207 bonded machine thread. That calls for a #24 needle if you have the same thread on top and in the bobbin. It is also at the extreme top end of only the strongest of walking foot machines that might show up for sale in marketplaces, or online. Your average upholstery grade machine cannot handle that thickness of thread.

Here are a few sewing machines, sold and serviced by our supporting advertisers, that can tension #207 (aka: #210) thread and still use thinner thread for thinner work.

If you require a machine that sews with heavier thread, larger needles, or sews a higher thickness, you need to move up to a harness/holster stitcher that can tension #415 thread using a #26 or #27 needle that is a wide as a roofing nail.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
7 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

@Kovant- Take a look at this thread and needle chart. It will give you an idea about the diameter and strengths of various "sizes" of sewing threads and their recommended needle sizes. As a hand sewer you are probably used to using thread ranging from .5 to 1 mm diameter. While that is a typical range for hand sewing it is not typical for sewing machines. 0.5mm thread equates to #207 bonded machine thread. That calls for a #24 needle if you have the same thread on top and in the bobbin. It is also at the extreme top end of only the strongest of walking foot machines that might show up for sale in marketplaces, or online. Your average upholstery grade machine cannot handle that thickness of thread.

And if you think about it, this is the main reason why hand stitching is stronger.  People try to explain to customers with pictures and diagrams why saddle stitching is stronger, because if one thread goes you still have the other one blah blah, when really the elephant in the room is that the average hand stitched item is done with thread that is double the thickness of a similar machine stitched item.

People who machine stitch always try to go thinner because they can use smaller and cheaper machines, the bobbin lasts longer, the thread is cheaper per metre, the stitch length is shorter which makes things easier, and so on.

And people who hand stitch go thicker because a) they wanna show off their handstitching, and b) because below a certain thickness of thread you can't really see what you're doing.

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Posted

Whilst the above is true, its also true that you never see thick thread used on top quality brands like CC or LV and the like, most use 69 or 92 thread and 69 at 11lb breaking strain is near impossible to break just using your hands

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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Posted
27 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Whilst the above is true, its also true that you never see thick thread used on top quality brands like CC or LV and the like, most use 69 or 92 thread and 69 at 11lb breaking strain is near impossible to break just using your hands

Sure, but the breakage in real life doesn't really happen from pulling, nobody pulls a bag apart, it happens from friction with external objects usually around the bottom.  That's where thickness makes a difference.

Besides those fashion bags are not trying to be tough, they're about other things.

 

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Posted (edited)

I like much of whats said in above post regarding thread, thread sizes and! Some actual usage of thread sizes by some manufactures weather their hi-falutin or whatever ; )

Many here have stitched twenty years longer than I, and even longer with a an extreme few ( your knowledge is appreciated )

In any case, we can by-pass a lot, and learn later or simply recognize smartly thread manufactured, has changed with some prospering. 
Some thread is simply not available now days because of advancements in general requirements. Trying to stick within my “basic knowledge” of threads, there are a few used primarily; cotton, waxed cottons, nylon, nylons blended, polyester and their blended ratio types. 
I say blended simply because they are for reasons of stretch, circumstances and of different duty applications. 
We should have in mind at or after this brief that some threads may well be some sorta technical named blends for more extreme! Levels of usage, ie marine, heat or even outer space or etc etc. 

thats a brief bit, ya already knew; cheers with morning coffee or tea

 

ps: nylons and poly threads are the norm, and these have duration abilities with exposures to sun and weather, many are better than others with characteristics. Some of these are weird yet special when in hand, some of those oh Oh ok I am recognizing its quite a bit to take up, so, like me This forum has offered both new and experienced bits of equipment and advice. 
 

Its been good 

Edited by brmax
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Posted

Good day 

It may be good for discussion here, to help you and for others in their future, the actual question initially posted, seriously; let us help discuss sources for machines near you or likely accessible.  
With this it may enable results!


Best regards 

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Posted
8 hours ago, Spyros said:

Sure, but the breakage in real life doesn't really happen from pulling, nobody pulls a bag apart, it happens from friction with external objects usually around the bottom.  That's where thickness makes a difference.

Besides those fashion bags are not trying to be tough, they're about other things.

 

But have you ever seen heavy stitches on Wallets from a quality top company, probably not, yet they can be one of the most heavily used and abused leather items also many canvas rucksacks, backpacks  sports bags etc also only use up to 92 thread

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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Posted
4 hours ago, chrisash said:

But have you ever seen heavy stitches on Wallets from a quality top company, probably not, yet they can be one of the most heavily used and abused leather items also many canvas rucksacks, backpacks  sports bags etc also only use up to 92 thread

Which is why I make and use handmade wallets :dunno:

I don't just accept whatever "top quality" companies do.  They have their own reasons for making things the way they do, and maybe the longevity and durability of their product is not necessarily in their goals.  They're trying to sell.

 

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