Compact and possibly portable sewing machine for watch straps

[suhajko]

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

 

@suhajko - The watch strap you showed is very nice!  Mind saying what thickness of leather you used and how many layers?  I've never tried (yet) to make a watch strap but I'd like to.

 

The upper leather on this one was french calf in about 1,2mm. The core of the strap was a sandwich from split calf in 3 layers thinning down towards the end of the strap to fit in a particular buckle. The bottom layer was 0,5mm Zermatt. So a total of 5 layers. The strap was about 4,5mm where it attaches to the watch and about 1,7mm where it enters the buckle of the watch.

 

 

[Matt S]

15 hours ago, suhajko said:

Hey guys. I researched a lot but Im still struggling to find the right thing for me.

First let me tell you a little about what I do. For 11 years now I am making bespoke watch straps, all hand made including stitching. I am more into delicate straps with thickness between 1,5mm to 2,5mm tops. I use mainly calf, goat, pigskin but also shell cordovan. The straps are usually lined with calf and consist of 2-3 layers of leather. 
As I wrote, I do hand stitching and I like it. But I want to get into machine stitching too…

From what I was reading here on the forum, a compound machine would be good for my purposes. But are there any smaller and lighter compound machines out there? I dont really have too much space, and I really dont need a machine for heavy work. Im not interested to make other products at the moment so a heavy industrial machine seems a bit overkill… In addition, the machine would be stitching maybe 10-20 straps per week so I guess this really is not something that would require a machine meant for mass production.

I was also wondering, would a needle feed machine work OK for watch straps too? The leathers I work with are quite delicate sometimes and Im pretty sure that the feed dog claws of a standard machine would leave very nasty marks on the straps, and a walking foot might not be ideal as it tends to leave some pressure marks too.

The machine should be probably equipped with a motor that can go really slow to have control and I will also need a pressure foot that will allow me to use a edge guide…

I am located in Europe, so I would like to buy the machine in Europe preferably…

I will welcome any comments and useful information. 
thanks!

Your smallest and lightest reliable option is probably going to be something like a Pfaff 335 (of appropriate subclass) or Adler 69. These particular two models have the added benefit of being so popular that mods and accessories are readily available. The head weighs about 30Kg without motor, bobbin winder etc. They are proper industrial machines. Anything less and you lose important features (like a Singer 31K, which is available cheap but is a drop-feed-only, less positive than a compound feed and trickier to get consistent results with for a less experienced operator).

For slow speed you should make sure that the machine is equipped with a servo motor. Jack makes popular and reliable ones that aren't too expensive. Unfortunately the minimum/"start" speed is probably higher than you'll find ideal so you will have to put a speed-reducing idler pulley between the machine and the motor. You can either make one with a large and small pulley, a piece of 15mm steel shaft and a pair of pillow block bearings or just buy one from Sieck. IIRC €85+VAT.

If you don't have space for an industrial machine stand you can mount them on a sturdy wooden board and put them on your workbench, but then you'd either have to rig up a remote pedal or just turn the wheel by hand.

If you can't cough up for a real one, there are Chinese copies available of various quality but being mechanically inclined my preference is very strongly for a second/third/fourth hand machine from a "premium" manufacturer -- Singer, Seiko, Durkopp, Adler, Pfaff, Brother etc. Quality of manufacture trumps a shiny paintjob in my book, but that's not everyone's taste.

[chrisash]

This video is a good indicator of the two machines a Sailrite and a Industrial

 

[Wizcrafts]

No matter the make or model of sewing machine, you are going to need one that takes accessory presser feet, because you will need a left toe only presser foot to get close enough to the edges to line up an edge guide as close as these bands require. Whew, what a long, compound sentence!

Here's the deal with the Sailrite LS-1 (straight stitch only): it has a wide double toe outer foot. You would have to order their left toe foot to get close to the edges They sell this as a zipper foot and it has teeth. If you wanted a set with the serrated bottoms it would be a special order and might be expensive. These machines are dual top/bottom feed and need some grip on top.

It might be possible to sew your watch bands using a roller foot machine with a very small roller wheel. The wheel is on the left normally. These machines can be had in flat bed, post bed and cylinder arm configurations. Typically, they are bottom feed only, with some even having a round feed dog that revolves instead of doing a 4 way motion. Old models from yesteryear had no reverse. You will want to avoid those because it will be nigh impossible to spin the work to lock the stitches when you are sewing 1/16th inch in from the edges. So, if you want to go this route, look for a roller foot machine that has reverse.

If neither of these types of machine appeal to you, it's remotely possible to use a straight stitch machine with a zipper foot and bottom feed via a feed dog with aggressive teeth. These are aftermarket feeders that come with a matching throat plate. In fact, in the past I have purchased a three piece roller foot conversion kit for straight stitch machines that already had pretty aggressive feed dog teeth. The rollers are available in small, medium and large diameter and have serrations to grip the leather. You would have to ask the sellers about the actual diameters of the rollers they offer.

Aside from the Sailrite, which is specifically targeted to people doing onboard boating repairs, these are all industrial sewing machines requiring a special work table with a heavy duty servo or clutch motor underneath. While most are 20 x 48 inches, some are available cut shorter, or for cylinder arm machines, as pedestal stands. I don't usually get involved in discussions about using domestic sewing machines when the discussion is about sewing leather.

[suhajko]

So far the Adler 69 seems like a good option for me. 
I have found a Juki DSC 245 for sale. Seems to have triple feed. Anybody with some experiences with this machine?

[kgg]

49 minutes ago, suhajko said:

I have found a Juki DSC 245 for sale.

The main drawback is the max thread size as I read the spec. to be from V33 (Tkt 80) to V69 (Tkt 40) and as usual with the Juki's they rated their max needle size for one thread size above at a #21 needle which could technically accept a V92 (Tkt 30) thread. Also I read the spec as having a small bobbin. I would look for in the Juki's an older Juki LS-341 or LS=1341.

kgg

[suhajko]

V92 max would be sufficient for all my watch strap needs. I mostly use thinner threads anyway. A small bobbin is not an issue, Im not doing upholstery

I will be on the lookout for the LS341 and 1341 but have to look at stats and reviews first. I decided to buy only something that I will be able to source locally and try out before I buy…

[Matt S]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

The main drawback is the max thread size as I read the spec. to be from V33 (Tkt 80) to V69 (Tkt 40) and as usual with the Juki's they rated their max needle size for one thread size above at a #21 needle which could technically accept a V92 (Tkt 30) thread. Also I read the spec as having a small bobbin. I would look for in the Juki's an older Juki LS-341 or LS=1341.

kgg

IIRC the Juki 245 takes a M-size bobbin (roughly 1" diameter and 3/8" thick). Roughly 50% increased capacity over a 111-style G. Even a G-size bobbin ought to be fine for a few dozen watch straps a month I would have thought.

[kgg]

3 minutes ago, Matt S said:

IIRC the Juki 245 takes a M-size bobbin

I thought it was the DSC-246 and the DSC-246-7 that took the double capacity bobbin.

kgg

[Matt S]

5 minutes ago, kgg said:

I thought it was the DSC-246 and the DSC-246-7 that took the double capacity bobbin.

kgg

I've just checked the spec and you're right. I'd forgotten that the 246 has a larger hook and bobbin than the 245.