Professional wallet making tutorial (book)

[Danne]

I did read through some posts here, and I'm not 100% certain but it seems like sharing this will not be against the rules.

So I saw that Chestermox (Bellanie Salcedo) is taking pre-orders for a book that describes in depth how she make her fully lined bifold wallets. I think I have a quite good understanding how her wallets are constructed. But I still really want this book, because I know I will pick up a lot of techniques. 

The reason I share this here is for two reasons. I think a lot of other crafters here also might be interested in this book. I would say my construction knowledge is on an intermediate level, and wow how I wish this book would have been available years ago.

The second reason is because I want this to be fully funded or otherwise I obviously can't get the book. 

I feel a little hesitant to post this. I don't gain anything from sharing this. And those who have been here for a while know that I try to answer questions and help other if I can. And I think this is a book that would be worth it's money for those interested in this type of wallets, so I think it's worth sharing. 

 

https://chestermoxatelier.com/products/the-art-book

Her instagram where there are two posts about this coming book.

www.instagram.com/chestermox

 

Edited February 4, 2022 by Danne

[Spyros]

I guess it's cheaper than destroying leather with trial and error or spending hours trying to guess the secrets.  

Is there anything in those wallets that I don't see in yours Danne?  Because if there is, I struggle to see it to be honest.

Nice colours though.

[Danne]

3 minutes ago, Spyros said:

I guess it's cheaper than destroying leather with trial and error or spending hours trying to guess the secrets.  

Is there anything in those wallets that I don't see in yours Danne?  Because if there is, I struggle to see it to be honest.

Nice colours though.

I have analyzed enough of her photos to see how most parts of the wallet is  constructed. But not the techniques used (Just like I do everywhere on Instagram) 

I have some things I would like to do different, but it would require me to be able to split leather. 

Since I never had any education I often do things in a very complicated way. And I’m certain there are a lot of tips and tricks on how to align things, flush cut and such.

Two things she do that I don’t do.

1. Full size card pockets and fully lined. I do a relatively wide T-pocket construction and not lined. I will probably keep doing it this way but when I have a splitting solution I think I will line pockets. I personally don’t see any benefits of lining card pockets in the goat I usually use for my wallet interiors, but when combining with other types of leather like alligator I want them lined so at least for some combinations I will line all card pockets.

2. Her wallets are (X-stitched) I don’t know a better word. But they are punched with the same iron from both sides and stitched without casting the thread. The benefit with this is that it’s a lot easier to get a nice slant on both sides. On really thin leather when only punching from one side at least I have to choose which side should have the ”best slant” Another crafter that use this technique is Atelier Shiang.

Also skiving is done different on her wallets, in a way I will be interested in learning because I would benefit from that construction method for other types of leather than what I use now. And I’m sure that book will give me a decent amount of ”wow moments” like ”oh I never thought about doing it that way”

Most crafters do some things different. I feel confident in the durability of my wallets, but I still have a lot to learn before I would be able to do fully custom work and still keep a slim profile. 

[Spyros]

Enjoy your journey Danne!

And when you write your own book, I'll buy it

[Danne]

26 minutes ago, Spyros said:

Enjoy your journey Danne!

And when you write your own book, I'll buy it

There are so much ”secrets” in leathercraft when it comes to construction and materials. I wish it was a little bit more like woodworking. Whatever furniture you would like to build, you would be able to learn the techniques needed on Youtube. 

And what makes you a good woodworker is to master these techniques and practice on your attention to detail. (Woodworkers here correct me if I’m wrong) 

But more and more really experienced crafters start to share their knowledge which is good.

I even saw that Ondrej Sima (Sima Prague) have started with education. Study a week in Prague does sound quite nice  

Edited February 4, 2022 by Danne

[Doc Reaper]

Send me a free samole

Edited February 4, 2022 by Doc Reaper
Made friendly

[Spyros]

1 hour ago, Danne said:

There are so much ”secrets” in leathercraft when it comes to construction and materials. I wish it was a little bit more like woodworking. Whatever furniture you would like to build, you would be able to learn the techniques needed on Youtube. 

And what makes you a good woodworker is to master these techniques and practice on your attention to detail. (Woodworkers here correct me if I’m wrong) 

But more and more really experienced crafters start to share their knowledge which is good.

I even saw that Ondrej Sima (Sima Prague) have started with education. Study a week in Prague does sound quite nice  

oh man 

I'm guessing you recently started woodworking?  Stick around a little longer and you'll soon find you can spend years and years just studying and installing proper dust extraction.  There is a mindblowing amount of contradictive and confusing information out there to sort through just on dust extraction.  Sharpening?  Haha!  There is a famous joke in woodworking that if you're ever lost in the wilderness and you need to be found, just take out your stone and start sharpening a chisel, someone will pop out of nowhere to tell you you're doing it wrong :D

There's a woodworking forum I can point you to where people argue for decades about the correct use and maintenance of hand planes.  Decades.  And another one for finishing.  Or just dovetails, people can argue forever which technique is faster or more correct.    Bowl turners, pen makers, carpenters, cabinet makers, furniture makers, tool builders, epoxy specialists, unplugged puritans, tool collectors, brand fanatics, there's all sorts of sects and crazies out there permanently arguing, you ask the same question to 5 woodworkers you'll probably get 5 different answers.  It-just-doesnt-end.  Youtube?  Yeah sure, there's some good stuff out there, but make no mistake... most of it is just wrong information.

 

[chuck123wapati]

2 hours ago, Spyros said:

Enjoy your journey Danne!

And when you write your own book, I'll buy it

[kgg]

8 hours ago, Danne said:

The second reason is because I want this to be fully funded or otherwise I obviously can't get the book. 

Her writing the book is great but it has to be fully funded. Sounds like the book itself is done and the funding is to cover the cost of printing a certain number of hard copies. In this day and age I can't see why she doesn't just release it as a pdf or something where interested people could download a copy for a price. No relying on the mail or third parties yet providing 24 service.

kgg

[Matt S]

I am curious to know what secrets she reveals in her book that, for instance, Nigel Armitage doesn't teach for free on Youtube or for a modest cost with his pattern packs, book and paid video series. But then my sceptical hackles tend to rise when someone sells their book as "revealing secrets" rather than simply "teaching skills" or "passing on experience".

Not $150 curious mind, but curious nonetheless.

I don't mind spending that sort of money for information that is useful or interesting to me and not otherwise available. I think I paid nearly that for a video series on a specific shoemaking technique.

Books I would happily buy for $150:

• Servicing and adjusting of band-knife splitters
• Techniques for reliable and repeatable wet moulding for batch production
• Modern water/moisture/corrosion management techniques for leather and associated hardware, with special regard to general outdoors, maritime, military and fetish environments
• A proper modern analysis of fat/grease/oil behaviours in leather
• and many others on information that either is already out there (but not published), may not have been studied scientifically in depth, or may simply not have been put together in one place before.

Wallets, belts, saddlery, holsters are all really popular subjects that are, if not done to death, probably near the market saturation point.

 

5 hours ago, Danne said:

There are so much ”secrets” in leathercraft when it comes to construction and materials.

With the utmost respect, like what? I'm reminded of the blacksmithing/bladesmithing world. If anything it has a lot more mysticism, myths, "wisdom of the ancients", half-truths, outright lies and promises of "revealed secrets" than leatherwork. A very experienced and wise old smith summed it up pretty well, and I'll paraphrase: It's metal. Once you learn how it behaves (under the hammer, in the fire or slack tub, on the grindstone and when cutting) it's all just experience, practice, process planning and diligence. There's always something more to learn, study, practice or research and you can get very deep down specific rabbitholes, maybe even to a level of understanding on that topic that few others possess but there are really no secrets in blacksmithing.