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About Trox

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  • Birthday 07/07/1959

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    Oslo Norway
  • Interests
    Dogs,Boats,fly Fishing, Industrial sewing machines, leather tools And Volvo Veterancars

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    When I stop learning, I am dead

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  1. It's easier, cheaper to make a copy or clone just like the real thing; than make it different. Therefore, you can trust they are all the same. Of course there have been some modifications/improvements and different material qualities. I'm sure we can help him get his machine sewing as it should. Nevertheless, that the dealer job in the first place. Just return it and demand they fix it and pay for the transport. Is it not a brand new machine and you paid for a fully operational sewing machine. If you want a DIY project you can buy it direct from China yourself to a fraction of the price. I'm sure any of our dealers would have replaced/repaired it and not told you to seek advice here on their mistakes. If the dealer will not help you, then tell us where we should not buy sewing machines. Let them earn their pay check like our dealers have too. Tor
  2. Hi Floyd, I can answer regarding the reduction pulley. I can ensure you both that is not neccessary or even possible in such motor systems. The Efka DC 1550 delivers up to 8 NM of torque, more than enough for any known lock stitch machine model out there without the use of a speed reducer/reduction pulley. (Such pulley can't be used with modern Efka and DA drives because it will mess up the control box calculations, therfore they made their motors strong enough in the first place; strong enough to not need one) I use my Efka DC1550/DA321 on my 16 inch 441 clone and do not have to use all of its power (The torque is adjustable in the control box, I can turn on more if needed and I never had to to that yet). The 896 will handle heavy material and thread from Nm 80/3 up to 10/3 (Tex 270) and this are factory specs. meaning it probrably will take more. Perfect machine for leather bags and medium leather work. Heavier options are the DA 969H from Sieck, prices from Euro 6500 and up. Tor
  3. I forgot to welcome you to the forum Anna, tried to edit my last post but for some reason I was unable to do that. Tor
  4. First of all, excellent choice of machine. If I could afford such machine I grab it in a hartbeat When it comes to choice of motor. I do have the Efka DC1550/ DA321 control box. However, I use it on my 441 machine. That is a very strong motor, very happy with iThe DC 1550 first came as early as 1994. I'm not sure but some of these internal drives and direct drives are Efka too (the first ones where Efkas). The direct drive system is an update/advantage over the traditional V belt drive system, it requires less active components. Therefore, it's less that can go wrong; no belt slippage and less cables/components. Machine do not need the synchronizer head, where on the older motors (DC 1600 and prior to that) the needle positions was adjusted. On the DC 1550 and later motors it's only there to calculate belt slippage. With direct drive you will not have any belt slippage and it's not neccessary. Is there any price difference between the two motor options? personally I would choose a direct drive option, unless the motor used are of less power/quality. That's a much better system than the traditional V belt drive. Ask for motor/control box specs on direct drive option too. The subclass of your choice have all the extras I would ever need on such machine, it still should be possible to add more if neccessary (possibility on control box to add extras like it is on the DA 321 box). I belive there are huge price difference with different European dealers, not all of them will offer the same customer service prior sale. A economical option for those who do not need that much customer service is However, good customer service is gold. Efka is well known for their service. I think the price offer you received was a bit high. The classic is more expensive than the Eco. However, Sieck sells the 869 Eco-Efka DC1550/Da 321 for only 3600 Euro. I will advice you to ask several dealers for offers, perhaps Duerkopp Adler offers "brand support" just like Efka does. That means, does not matter where you bought your motor as long as it is an Efka they will support you. Check out Frank Brunnet GmbH too. It seems like there are huge differences in price even inside Germany. Good luck, Tor
  5. Madmax, that only proves our machines have incorrect feed adjustment or faults in the castings (or both). Without leather point needles I do not have any problems with back stitching in the same holes. My old Adler machines never had these problems using LR needles, always backstitched in the same holes without thread fraying. However, they where not trippel feed machines. With trippel feed there are more that can go wrong. It's seems like it's just in the comercial videos these clones back stitch fine with LR needles ? Is there any of you that have a 441 clone that backstitch fine with LR needles, without thread fraying (when using heavy threads)?? There might be other factors than influence the outcome, like thread type and needle sizing. Perhaps bonded nylon is more resistant to fraying than polyester. Perhaps using a larger needle to the thread size will give more space for the thread. Thanks Tor
  6. The first thing you do with stitch errors are to change to a new needle, bad needles cause 90 % of all stitch errors. No matter how old that needle is and do not look for burrs on it, just change it for a new one. Then look for burrs on your hook tip, check the inside foot and hole in the needle plate for the same. Use your finger and a magnifiers, look for anything that might cause that fraying. When it comes to the adjustment, it's not your job to adjust the machine. Have it delivered back for repairs or let them come and adjust it in your place. You have a warranty, if you start doing repairs yourself that might not be valid anymore. You will learn how to adjust the machine soon enough, a brand new machine should be sewing fine when you receive it. Tor
  7. The best 441 clone set up for I tried so far is the slotted plate with a Ferdco lower needle guide. It seems like the machine back stitch in same holes much easier when there is no feed dog that " works against" the top feed. Even with a LR needle there is minimal thread fraying. I also use a Efka needle pos. motor assuring the needle stops where it should be. Thank you both for addressing this "non existing" problem that looks like every 441 clone owner have experienced.
  8. Yes I have split all kinds of firm leather on such fixed knife splitters, for soft leather you need a bandknife machine like my old 400 kg Fortuna Tor
  9. I use this set up too (with the Cobra style inside foot, slotted plate and Ferdco lower guide), but I never sew with no material in the machine. Ease up the presser foot pressure (so the presser do not hit the plate) or change the inside foot if you going to sew very thin material. Remember to hold both thread tight when locking down your stitches/ start and stop. To much presser foot pressure will make it hard for the needle to hit same holes on back tacking, you are using a sharp LR needle that will cut/fray the thread easily . Tor
  10. I would recommend the CS Osborne # 84 or Campbell Randall Keystone (8" blade) with lockable handle (U can use two hands to pull material true) lapskiver/splitter. For a cheap option, the Cowboy old Grey/white color 6 inch (CS. Osborne # 83 copy) to only 250 $. They all comes with ready sharpen blades but would need to be polished (stropped blades). Tandy make a copy of the # 84 to a higher price than the originals from (CSO and CR), I cannot see why anybody want to buy that. They also have the modified (6 inch) model #83 copy with lockable handle, also terrible over priced. Cowboy also make this model, they are both made in China (belive also cheaper priced). All models need to be polished after some work. However, good US made models from CSO and CR will keep an edge longer and have a better second hand value; better tool for the money. Price on the two first models are from 550 to 600 US $. With a sharp/polished machine you will split all firm leather up to about three inches wide with easy, chrome or wegtan. They would skive up to 2 inch wide, because you would need one hand to operate the handle and the other to pull material true. Any wider would be hard to pull true. Blade length length has nothing to do with how wide you can splitting or skive, it just gives you more sharp blade to work with (you have vary, use the hole length on the blade to keep it evently used). For splitting wider pieces you need a motorized/cranked or Bandknife Splitting machine. For skiving wider pieces and soft leather you need a bell knife skiving machine, skive lenght up to two inches and as wide you want. There are also 5 in 1 shoe machines with crank skive/splitting option, blade is about 1 3/4 inch wide (45 mm. on my machine). Means a skiving length of 1 3/4 inch and as wide you want too. Only for firm leather and a bit short skiving length for lap skiving belts/reins over 1 inch wide. You could use such machine, but the two first machine will give you a better skiving result. I would recommend you buy one of the two first mention machines from CR or CSO. Good luck Tor
  11. Hi Mishkin Modern European screw Presses comes in two systems, Astor and the regular (Italian). The regular takes M6x1.0 (metric 6 mm with 1.0 threads) top and 12 mm (un threaded) hole in the bottom. The German Astor system takes 7/16" (W14 threading bit fits) on top and 9 mm (without threads) bottom. Astor converting adapters for using standard European dies in Astor Presses are in sale several places. I just bought (and sold again) an old European press that had a smaller bottom hole, but took the regular M6 die on top. I suspect your press could be similar to that. Then you can just drill the bottom hole a bit larger to use the standard dies on it. Tor
  12.  Hi I happen to see an old thread about your three phase converter boxes around 60 bucks. Can you please tell me where I can buy one of these? I have a commercial Sock machine as a three-phase motor And this sounds perfect. Thanks so much for your time.

    cheers Kary

    1. Trox


      Hi Kary, they are frequency controllers/converters who transform single phase current in to three phases and let you control all parameter on your motor. Like changing the hertz (frequency), that's adjust the speed on a AC motor. These are for sale on all places where they sell electronic components and of course Ebay. Look for the rating plate on your motor (small sign with Watt, amp and current), look for amp and current (110 or 230 Volts and amps). Make sure you buy a controller that is large enough, can handle the amp on your motor (and a bit more to be safe). I do not know if you live in a 230 or 110 environment. The instalation should be done by someone with knowledge of electronics. You could do it your self, then make sure you read up on the manual/instructions first (and be careful it's a lot of amps that can kill you). Could be difficult to understand these instructions if you have no experience with electronics. Every brand of controller have their unique set up, but the basically work the same way. Earth to earth from the motor to controller, the other three motor cables has to be changed around until the motor turns the right way (from motor to high current output controller). The two pole start swith (could be anything that are meant for 110 or 230 volt, like a lamp foot switch or something) are to be connected according to the manual. All motor parameters can then be controlled on the frequency controller, like speed startup time (how log until motor reach full speed in seconds) start up torque, and so on. You could also attach a pot meter to controlled the speed by (like a volum switch). Some says these controller are bad for the motor, but that's not proven to be right. It's a proven industrial solution used Daly all over the world to control every thing like AC driven fans and macines. Check your motor plate and buy a controller a bit larger than neccessary (by amps rating and the right volts) They only work by converting single Ph in to three phases, not single to single or three to three Ph. They are known to make motors sound bad on some frequencies, then just change the speed a little and it's gone (just the hertz that makes sound, nothing dangerous) You can buy a used controller that works fine too, have a look on Ebay. The bigger they are , the more expensive. These can be a little exepensive. Check it out and good luck. 


  13. Sorry, my machine has a inbuilt motor for the feed wheel. I have not seen any tutorials on such setups on the youtube.
  14. Trox

        I have an opportunity to purchase this plough gauge, and if you would be so kind as to relay any history that you aware of it would be appreciated. The plough is pictured with a Blanchard blade, however the makers mark Is a raised HUBER+ on the blade support.

       I also have a Portrait plough, and again thank you for your previous input on the Ges Lutz I received from you.

      I in addition wonder how difficult it will be to get the proper HUBER+ blade?IMG_1399.JPGIMG_1398.JPG

    Cheers Keith


    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. kanadakeith



        Thanks so much for forwarding the information and spending the time to respond to my enquiries.

      Cheers Keith

    3. Trox


      Your welcome keith, the information or lack of such was entirely my own :) Walter is a Swiss saddler and leather tool collector, if the tool is German , Swiss or from France he would know. There are also a new Australian member here now who have bought every plough he have seen for sale for Good knows how long. He has a big bank safe full of them, more than 30 in the picture. His name is Alan Rundell, you should check with him too, it's a good change he have one like it too . 

      Good luck


    4. kanadakeith



         I got a short note from Walter he say's the plough was made in Germany by Meltzer & Feller and sold buy a Swiss company company called Huber & co. who have gone out of business.

      He also suggested that I contact Alan Rundell in Ausse to see if he would be able to add any information and perhaps track down a blade for it.

      Regards Keith


  15. Thanks for the insight Eric, I believe there are some pretty reasonable priced options out there. Like the Hohsing G60 needle position motor, the price in Europe is under 200 US$. There are also other good Hohsing motors under 450 $. The G 60 is 600W with needle position and speed control that works as it should do. Hohsing are a professional brand, and have motors that can compare to Efka, I never heard anything but good things about them. I have several friends that use them, you can't get them to buy anything else. Tor