All Activity

The Cowboy labelled CB6900 is the down-under (Australian) version of the North America CB341 where both are clones of the Juki LS-341. Another option for those occasional needs would be a manual class 441 machine. There are three capable "one armed bandits", Tippmann Boss, Cowboy Outlaw and Weaver's Master Tool Cub. kgg

@wizcrafts Thank you for the article! I would definitely be concerned about needle deflection and I don't think I'd be up for going through that adjustment process very frequently. I'm also not too keen on trying to source hard to find needles as well! I'm more convinced it's a case of two machines. Thinking about it more, I believe my best bet is to get a 1341 class machine now as I think it would fill a larger number of needs, while saving the super heavy stuff for an eventual 441 class machine. Side note, I'm assuming Toledo doesn't carry the 6900 as is not on their site. Maybe I'll call and see what Bob says. That's a good point. I've seen some other posters say they've done it with 207 in the top but not the bobbin but I think 138 is a safer bet.

I need some helping locating information online on adjusting the hook timing on my double needle drop feed Singer 112w 115. I'm moving to a larger needle (20) and need to know how to adjust the timing for these types of machines. I have a needle bar that has no marks. The instructions for this machine says it can still be done even without marks on the needle bar, but also says I should set the stitch length to 8. I'm not sure when I change the stitch length if it actually changes. I bought this machine from a couple on Facebook marketplace that has an upholstery business, but I have not had much luck with consistent operation since I purchased it a few months ago. Everything from getting the right size table top from a swing machine supplier I would never use again to installing a simple knee lifter that turned out to be made horribly especially with this terribly made table top.

Yes I did for the most part. I realized the knee lifter I bought wasn't made correctly. The 228365 wasn't moving up and down through the 228362 like in the diagram above. I got another one and immediately saw the difference. I'm still working on some fine tuning to get it to catch the knee lifter properly. The table top I bought has been giving me machine fitment issues from the start (don't ever buy a table top from Goldstar, tons of issues with it and shipping was horrible, I'm sticking with Prizzi going forward). I'm dealing with a timing issue now as I went to a bigger needle size and not finding much info on how to set timing on these machines. I'm about to post a thread for help on that now. Thanks for checking in.

🤣🤣 What a fun idea,

I found some 5 oz- 6 oz buffalo hide scraps on Facebook that someone was selling. Made a wallet for a friend who wanted one and has been asking me for a while to make one for them. I would have preferred something with a bit more character, but I will work with what I have. One question - how do you keep your stitching irons straight when you are going through 3 layers of 6 oz leather?

I expected that, but didn't know how to approach it better, with the hardware I had around. Honestly, this is more 'nifty' than useful. I doubt anyone will need to pull out their morse decoder very often, though I would like to know how you would have laid it out, to avoid that problem. It does feel a bit vulnerable there, even with the 5-6oz leather. Thanks both of you. Now, if only there was a herd of aged morse-nerds with heaps of disposable income...hmmm...;)

its actually 111w155 - I doubt there is a mechanical difference, maybe its a different plating on the metal parts (chrome vs nickel or vs blueing or something) either of the parts will work, I´m very sure about that.

That is cool indeed !!

I meant to type Singer IIIw155, not iiiw155. Thanks.

If the pan you've fitted is working at keeping the oil off you then I wouldn't worry too much about getting the correct one. As for oiling, you don't have to use the wick system, just oil it manually. Basically just give any parts that are rubbing/in contact/sliding etc a drop or two of oil. If you can master that clutch motor then well done but life will be easier if you swap it for a servo.

Well, that's different, and looks pretty neat. One potential problem you will have is the snap-down strap is stitched across and because the strap will have to be bent at a sharp angle to remove/insert the coin it will eventually tear at the "hinge point".

PS. I forgot to say; go raid a charity shop (thrift store?) for wallets, purses and handbags. You can pick them up real cheaply

You guys have inspired me. I started deconstruction. Clearly not glued anywhere. Gluing is common, no? Clearly had to start a new thread midway through the pockets. And the inner pockets have some weird single knot holding them in place.

Thank you.

Hi all, I just acquired a Singer IIIw155, and went online to get the parts manual, and found two. While most of the part numbers are the same, there are many with different part numbers. I get when there is a different letter at the end, maybe for different metal compounds used, but many have very different numbers. I made a pdf of the plates side by side. I started to highlight in pink all the part numbers that are different in the two manuals, but got tired of doing so after 5 pages. But, you can get the idea. I'm wondering if there is anything different. I tried to research if two parts (seemingly identical but with two different numbers) are inter-changeable, and apparently chatgpt thinks they are distinct parts with different functions. If you can, please see the pdf. I'd love to find out from which set of part numbers I should order and if there really is any difference. Also, I don't know what is in my existing machine, so not sure if I should worry about compatibility. Thanks! side by side of two different parts lists.pdf

does anyone have 1, if so can you tell me how to increase engraving size.

@OGL I sometimes buy a cheap item and take it apart to see how its made and how I would do it better. BUT, I only buy really cheap stuff and what I'm interested in. Its all good edumacation

All is not lost; now you have a basic wallet pattern to use, just take it apart.

Chuck is right... that's a Tandy kit, and poorly done at that! Not worth $5 in my mind. Round holes are starting off on the wrong foot! The thick white thread is an abomination. Everything is wrong except the back stitching. Nick

I’ve been pleased with Panhandle Leather. I ordered 4 sides from them a 5/6, and a 8/9 oz Hermann Oak skirting, a Hermann Oak heavy harness side, and a Thoroughbred Latigo side. I was quite pleased with all of them. I ordered over the phone and they asked what I was going to do with the leather so they could send something that would work for me. They even followed up the next day as they were filling the order to make sure they were sending the correct leather. Their shipping was also fast, my order showed up about 2 days faster than I thought it would. As a side note as a company they donate to our county livestock show and our county fair, which I think is pretty nice of them since we live about 5 1/2 hrs away from them. Hope this helps and good luck on your search.

That's disappointing especially considering where it came from. I realize I said "skive" in my original post. I meant bevel. I bought some basic tools. I'm going to try to give it an upgrade. Edit: I double checked what I received against your comments then went back to the source and what they sell online is consistent with the product I got. So yeah...my amateur eye was not wrong in feeling a bit duped. SOOOO glad I did not pay full price. I'll chalk it up to price of education which is pretty much what I was after anyway.

I found a nifty old coin for morse code on the temu site, and grabbed some, mostly because of how I learned something. In movies, I've seen actors send and receive messages over telegraph or other morse codes, but never saw how they did it. Turns out it is the opposite of magic. With this coin (other side has the sending info) and knowing how the code works, this will allow even a novice to decode a message. The code not only works, but is WAY easier to teach/share than I thought. I made a few wraps for them, and will be gifting them to a couple radio nerd friends. I kind of doubt it is an item that would sell well, but I'm still going to have a few made up just in case. They look, and ARE cool. By the way, feel free to offer critique. Especially if it is related to radio, since I'm not very deep into that hobby.

ya, same with ordering food from the ubereats or deliveroo. I have a source in Edmonton, called Buckskin Leather. Found the store in the 1990's in my neighbourhood, then found it again when I sought out a supplier of HO leather. The lady there listens carefully, and takes the time to understand what I'm asking. Being less experienced, I'm sure I couldn't tell between A, B and undergrades, but there isn't another source near me, so I guess I haven't compared it to much aside from Tandy's offerings.

What chuck123wapati said. I retired about 4 years ago. You have to engage your mind, body, and soul. Get a daily devotional book or something and spend time with your Bible. Get some exercise or other physical activity - you don't want to get fat and slovenly, and you'll feel better. Go explore that park or trail you've always been wanting to. Read. Energize your mind. The number of books I've read in the last four years is astounding. Those hobbies you've been wanting to get better at? Now that I have the time, I've been doing more wood work (already had the tools), built a few more radio control airplanes, and started making knives. Then I can make sheaths to go with them. 😁 Everyone needs one more belt or holster. Travel. Have done 2 cruises, and we hook up the RV and make a long road trip at least once a year. Go fishing during the week when everyone else is at work. I don't know how we had time for jobs . . . .