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@cv66seabear That starter set seems to have most of what you'll need. I'd add a razor knife of some kind and a steel rule to cut straight lines. Let me suggest that you enable email notification of responses to your threads. We've found that New users forget to check for responses and drift away. As follows: "To enable email notifications when someone posts on your topics (like this one), you can visit https://leatherworker.net/forum/notifications/options/ - then click "Mentions and My Content" and make sure the "Email" box is checked."

Thanks Dwight! I'm in the middle of Wisconsin, I think the nearest Tandy is 2 1/2 hours away, but good ideas , I'll save up and go in person! I assume you're a vet. I'm ex-Navy - mostly on a bird farm. Any hand stitching thoughts? Thanks again everyone!

Fred, thanks for the offer! I didn't realize Tandy had a free library! I'm looking right now for a belt bag for a Western belt, so about 4" X 4", 6"X4" with a 3" loop. I have a stitching pony the kind you sit on, some skivvers, waxed thread, various needles, knife, stitching hole cutters and some pattern punches. How much room do I need? I have a VW bus, tools and some woodworking equipment already. Is a 6' bench a good size? Would 4' work? Since I'm not doing a machine now? Or should I allow for that possibility in the future? I build my benches on wheels so I can move them around. What's a good height? Do mist of you Budget wise, I can't spend a fortune, seems like leather will be pretty pricey! Here's the set I bought. Sorry the one got inserted in the middle. I couldn't delete it.

If you have a "friendly" Tandy store like I have . . . they'll give you more help than you can use as far as ideas are concerned . . . they also have patterns that I've found to be pretty simple and basic . They also are my "go to" store for leather. I've tried some of the expensive stuff . . . and it's like comparing a Ford to an Audi . . . both gets you down the road . . . but one is more than twice the price. I pick my own out . . . and they'll even help me there if they have time. May God bless, Dwight

I’m very interested in buying the set. Please send me a message so we can range for shipping. Prefer to pay via PayPal invoice if possible. Thank you.

Excellent reference, thank you. I suspected machinists would know things about this. Here is a link to a free copy of the book: https://www.tfgusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Machinerys-Handbook.pdf Starting on page 1802 of the text, "Threads and Threading" introduces different thread systems. (There have been a few.) Page 1816 has a table of typical combinations in the american standard unified system. I think some slightly amended version of this system is still in common use today. It uses numbered sizes for anything smaller than 1/4". These numbered sizes mostly do NOT line up with 1/64" increments. Let's cross-referencing page 1816 with page 3 for details 1/16 is a little bigger than size 0 5/64 is in between sizes 1 and 2 3/32 is between size 2 and 3 7/65 is almost as big as size 4 1/8 matches size 5 exactly!! 9/64 is barely bigger than size 6 5/32 is in between sizes 6 and 8 11/64 is between sizes 8 and 10 3/16 is almost exactly size 10 13/64 is between sizes 10 and 12 7/32 is almost exactly size 12 15/64 is between size 12 and 1/4" Major Diameter of External Threads My main curiosity is how to interpret the measured major diameter and choose a nominal diameter from which to place an order. Let's look at an example from the book. Page 1818 The 1/4-28 UNF external (meaning screw thread, not nut thread) has a nominal diameter of 0.25" The least precision version (1A) has allowable major diameter 0.249" - 0.2392" This means the major diameter for the 1A series must be between 95.5% and 99.5% of the nominal diameter. From this I deduce that when I measure a major diameter to be X, I can look for a matching nominal diameter that is 1-4% bigger than X. I don't think I will always know which thread system the screws I'm searching for are from, either by my own ignorance or unavailability of data. But in general it makes sense that for a non-interference fit the screw major diameter has to be smaller than the accompanying nut major diameter. So I'll roll with the bolded deduction above until I find a more informed pathway.

Thanks for the very nice comment 🙂

If installed properly they can take a lot of beating. You need a special tool to install them. It is like a tapered punch that goes into a tapered hole. At least for very big ones. You could also use some small D-rings for the paracord. On your picture #2, the black stitch on the left (closest to the edge of your bag) - every 2" (give or take), you mount a D-ring. The D-ring can be mounted using either a thin strip of your leather or a strip of webbing. You can get D-rings in many sizes and colours, I would think that a 5/8" D-ring in brass would look good. Something sort of like on this picture:

HaHaHa, Yup, boy I understand the "Anticipated". Gets ya right in the.... I was wondering if it wasn't a thumb break strap. I'm a big fan of them myself. I have a hard time with any holster design that doesn't have a security strap of some sort. I want to feel confident the individual can do a summersault, get thrown from a horse, fall of a rock, dance with their grandkid, what ever and their pistol will be secure. Thank you sir for the photo. The belt loops aren't what I was expecting. Nice design..

how do those hold up long term there will be weight pulling on them when the net is loaded do i need a special tool to put them on

so got a knife sheath with a flash light holder to assemble but i want to put something on it. where can i find some creative ideas to put some thing in it before sewing it up and attaching everything to it

You could use sail eyelets and run the cord through them

Hello everyone I wanna design and make a Backpack. While I have come quite far with the design I dont quite know how to make the sides of my design in a way that is durable. The back is fully made out of veg tan buffalo ginde (4mm thick) I drew a model of my bag on my pc to upload. The 3 drawings are from the side, top down and from the front. The Idea is having the outside wall about 3 cm inwards and then have a kind of net from paracord between the two sides. That way stuff can be stored behind the net. I hope it makes at least a litte sense. How can I implement this without the paracord slowly riping the leather over time? The backpack is supposed to be durable and last many many years. Thanks in advance for every answer.

No problem. I've had one for about 5 years. kgg

thanks, did not know what to look for 😉

Temu: https://www.temu.com/ca/1pc-nut--thread-checker-inch-metric-26-male-female-gauges-stainless-steel-14-inch-12-metric-thread-checker-g-601099524615655.html?_oak_mp_inf=EOfbjp2m1ogBGiA5ZWNhMmYwZDdjNzU0NDAzOTViNDEwNjIyZTM1MWViZCDflrjLwTM%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2F1bd1d6e014704d792beadf80a72c5b49.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2025093704&refer_page_sn=10032&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTY4OQ&_oak_gallery_order=2093112306%2C160354140%2C2045537314%2C271545300%2C1416541352&search_key=nut and bolt thread checker&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1769953176822_anhrd4lta2&_x_sessn_id=3raljzhp3j Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009944813944.html?algo_pvid=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421&algo_exp_id=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421-6&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"7"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!CAD!28.44!22.09!!!142.79!110.89!%402101c44f17699531248835014ee51d!12000050647125799!sea!CA!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A18b3922%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197831932&curPageLogUid=ItEaF9KDGd9H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005009944813944|_p_origin_prod%3A kgg

Posting an AliExpress link may help 😉

Knurled screw for the outer presser foot tensioning on a 1980s Pfaff 1245 is an M5-1.0 thread. That metric size doesn't exist in the United States. I bought a machine used and that part was missing. Interesting rabbit hole of thread pitch exploration. Found an original one on ebay from Poland but they refused to ship due to tariffs. Found a 10-24 knurled screw on amazon that works for the purpose, only thing that was close in size. Point being, standard SAE and Metric was not always used by machine manufacturers worldwide.

Maybe the moderator will delete this post. The book has sold.

Nice job Dwight!

That is great work!

I've been to Bergen. Flew into Oslo and took a train to Bergen where I spent 2 days before we boarded a ferry for a scientific conference in a beautiful fijord setting. The conference honored a well known (to us) deceased Norweigan scientist who had trained a legion of scientists in the field of DNA repair. The hide glue produces good results with less work (no sanding once the edges are leveled). The edge readily accepts wax or acrylic finishes that I am testing out for a weatherproof finish.

Here is a great article on what machine or machines you will need depending on what you want to sew. In a nutshell if you are doing: i) Belts and bags a cylinder arm machine similar to the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 or clones would be a good choice with a flatbed attachment. ii) Holsters you will need a Class 441 similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone. What is your budget??? kgg

Nice indeed!! I like the hidden slots.

Hi Tove, Thanks for the nice words 🙂 That sounds like some very plausible causes you mention, I think that the situation in Denmark is pretty similar as in Germany, with very few people being able to invest 6-10.000 Euro on a bespoke saddle. Mys customer is petite, so though she is an adult, she has specialized in training dressage ponies, so I think it was a 16" or 16.5" saddle, And the range of people willing and able to make a huge investment on a special saddle for a pony /pony rider is even smaller than for a full size dressage horse. So it makes sense that it was one of the causes you suggest. One of our good friends had a bespoke saddle made for her horse, maybe 15 years ago. The horse had a bit of a crooked back as far as I remember, not much, but enough that a standard saddle hurt the horse. So she had someone from Kieffer coming up to her and measure her and her horse, and she ended up with a saddle that fit perfectly. I would love to be able to do that kind of work, but I haven't got the knowledge to do a proper fitting on a horse, so I just have to stick with doing repairs (but that is also a nice job) Brgds Jonas