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That kind of thickness stacked - a plough gauge slight maybe but eat a good breakfast, a draw gauge - better have a grip on the strap and the gauge and a sharp a*s blade. I'm not sure how far you are from any draft or pulling harness makers because I don't think we have any on the forum. I would get with one of those guys and ask how they do it. I'm betting one piece at a time and then stack them though.

I know you ended up buying something since the original post. But for future reference. Weaver make a 1¾" trace punch which is perfect for holster slots. They're spendy, $205. I make a ton of holsters. I should really consider investing in one myself, but I'm a cheapa** 😆

Fortunately I've only had two real bad cases of over oiling. I tried kitty litter and corn starch. Neither worked. Never removed a bit of oil

I'd stay with basic brown. Chrome tan pre-dyed in brown and veg tan accents dyed any shade of brown

I had a costumer that wanted a new belt with his nickname and some tooling on it. I primarily make holsters and I'll cut a few straps for belts out of a side before I go to town on holster making. Well I ran out if belt straps quicker than I did the rest of the side, and didn't need or want to down 330 bucks on a side right now since I'm stocked up with what I need. I went onto weaver's site and found that they're selling Hermann Oak English bridle belt straps, which are veg tanned. It took me awhile to find the information here on how to properly case bridle leather. It's not the same as HO strap or holster tanned sides at all. I soaked the strap, left it in the fridge overnight like I would with regular veg tan. All that did was make it super stiff almost frozen feeling almost frozen. I did since more digging on the site here, and asked for input. Figured out that because of the waxes and oils in English bridle, cold is not what you want. Heat. Some say heat the tools, others say use a great gun on the strap. It's been warm, so i left it overnight again soaked. Pulled it out the next morning and it felt like I expected it to the first time. Left it hanging for about an hour to dry to the right moisture feel and went to town. It's harder to tool than any leather I've worked with, but I'm the end I think it all worked out great. I don't think I'll tool English bridle again though. It's a nice belt, great feel but not different enough to justify the extra hours to tool

The centre. Personally I am more hands on then my example. I hand cut my leather with a utility knife, use a standard oblong, round or corner punch with a hammer but I do use templates when I can and I do use a sewing machine as I don't have the temperament needed to sew by hand. Since I am artistically challenged I will use an embosser once I complete building it. To me hand sewn is literally when needles and thread are used manually to create a seam not a sewing machine. kgg

I'm having trouble understanding exactly what you're asking. You are attaching a leather billet as a loop to a strap? This billet is looped through the bag slot, and back to the strap with both ends sandwich said strap? If this is the case, I would stitch the section that's looped and not attached to the start first. That way you're not stitching the loop closed or having to deal with a tight area that regular needles are too long for. As for making the stitch look good on both sides. All I can say is punch your holes straight and perpendicular. They do have diamond stitching chisels are "backwards" so you can punch clean stitch holes from both sides of the project. You can use your awl also. I end up using my awl all the time because, and I hate it! Wish I had longer chisels but then they'd bend. It takes practice to get stitches straight front to back. What I do on something long like a belt is I'll use my 6 prong chisel, make sure I have it lined up so that it goes through evenly from the edge. Then I'll set 3 of those 6 prongs into the already punched stitches. This helps keep the tool at the same angle eliminating the misaligned stitch holes on the back side. That's what's worked for me to get front and back stitching that looks good in either direction.

What I would suggest is that you choose a colour for your chrome tan leather that will go with any colour you decide to use with your veg tan leather. Think of colours like black or grey or use a colour wheel. I wouldn't go with a leather stain as it will probably sit on top of the leather and rub off with use. kgg

There are a number of suggestions if you care to search for them. Cornstarch, kitty litter, floor dry, etc. Bury the article in one of these. Keep stirring it around every few hours or days until it has absorbed how ever much it can. With all these suggestions, I haven't seen any confirmations from those that asked as to whether it works or not.

So I want to make some bible cases. Im ambitious and like to bite off more then I can chew. With that being said I want to do a nice tooled veg tan cover on the bible case with the rest of it thinner, softer chrome tan. What stain and what color chrome tan should I get to make these two different leathers look like they are the same project. Also I live 5 hrs away from the nearest leather supply store. I have to order everything online. Specifics will be appreciated.

@HideDesignsYes they are

I've lost count of the number of videos I've watched on youtube to do with die making but that's the first time I've seen that one! More fettling to do (fortunately I enjoy it), I now know that my machine will work it's just a matter of making the right bending jigs and then finishing it off.

I need the button and spring for the stitch length adjustment....

Thanks, but it's gone!!

Does this exclude a knife? These are all tools that we use. We don't stuff a hide into a machine and have a belt come out the other end. Some people have lots of tools that help speed up the process. Others have a minimal set of tools. Does it matter if I use a paint brush or an airbrush? They can produce practically identical products. If I call my work area a studio, does that move me into a different class than my basement or garage workshop? If I use a sewing machine versus manual needle and thread, it is hand sewn? If I guide the belt or what ever through the sewing machine, following the stitch line, or I saddle stitch, it is hand sewn? This example will get a lot of feedback. Which side of the bench do you sit on?

Soak it in denatured alcohol or acetone then wring it out & let dry. Best advice i can give.

I just had this conversation with someone- that shoemakers and saddlemakers are like the surgeons and cardiologists of leatherworkers. (She works in the medical field and understood the analogy)

I've never been really able to extract NFO after a real bad case of over oiling However, on modest over oiling I use 1. another piece of veg tan which needs oiling to leech out the oil. Laid in contact and left for months (cos I usually forget it) 2. a piece of brown wrapping paper to leech it out. I find brown wrapping paper work best of all papers

Hey folks, Let me cut to the chase: what strategies do you use to extract or squeeze out ALL the excess Neatsfoot oil from a piece of leather? (a belt in this case) Just thought I'd turn to this group to see if anyone has any brilliant ideas or strategies I haven't considered. Thanks!

You can get knife blades for larger bandsaws Build a support table to hold the work. I made extensions to my 10" sq table, front and back, so I could cut long lengths of beech wood. The extensions were about 18" front & back, afair

Something I used to adjust my trigger pulls looks like it can easily be adapted. Take a plastic cup, make two holes near the rim, opposite from each other and put a wire through the holes. Now you have what looks like a miniture paint can. Tie your bobbin thread to the wire. Lift the cup up while holding the bobbin. Slowly pour water into the cup until the bobbin releases the thread. Weigh your cup with water on a kitchen scale. Once you have a desired weight, put your empty cup on the scale and fill it to your target. Hang it from the thread and adjust your bobbin until the thread releases

If you want to get completely technical about it, if you're doing everything with machines then, no. But what is "objects partly or entirely by hand."? How "partly by hand" makes someone an Artisan? The only machines I use are a sewing machine and a manual skiver, could I still be considered an Artisan? I also look at Artisan as "expensive" but that's why I said if I had a shop in an expensive area I could call myself that to bring in people with money to spend. If I were to call myself that in my current area people wouldn't come to my shop because they would think I was to expensive. It's marketing really. You make up a bunch of words in order to get people to buy your stuff. In the end people can use whatever term they want in order to define what they do. They just have to be able articulate to people what that term means because some people will still have questions for specifics. I've heard one person call themselves a leather smith. The term works, you understand that it means it's a person that works with leather but technically it's wrong. A smith is a person that works with metals; blacksmith, bladesmith, silversmith, etc Either way you would still have to define what that means to a person. When people ask me what I do I just say "I own a leather shop" or I just say "I'm a leather worker". It opens a conversation and I expand by saying I make most anything except saddle and shoes. I used to scuba dive a lot. I became a dive master rather quickly and worked weekends with an instructor doing scuba classes. I also did dive tours at the beach for divers that weren't familiar with the area. Some friends, for whatever reason, would introduce me as a professional scuba diver. I'm not sure why they introduced me that way, I only did it on the weekends, but I would cringe when they did. To me it sounds kind of... off putting? elitist maybe? I'm just a guy that likes to work with leather and I make some money at it.

Columbus Granite has two locations. The location in Lewis Center has a big open construction dumpster just for remnant pieces that are not a useful size for countertops https://columbusgranite.com/

Sorry, just saw these replies. Correct. The machine was an 8mm zz and I converted it to 12. Global makes a 6mm and a 12mm and their parts list shows what needs to be replaced to. Worked no problem on the 8mm base.

Anytime Samalan