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As big a part as Harley Davidson played in my fathers and my life, this is the first piece of that life. it is 8 x 11 inches and it will most likelyy be painted. No hurry on this one taking time and enjoying the memories.

In my experience, if the stitches are too close together and pulled too tight they can cut through the suede

Thanks for the info. I’ve still got to tool the design and I’m waiting for a couple stamps to arrive. I will get back in touch with you as I go along with this one

I would use contact adhesive just along the parts the eyelets will go suede doesn't burnish well at all if its good quality suede, and you use medium sized and spaced stitching holes withmedium thick thread I reckon on 3 mm or 1/8 inch, I'd glue the very edge, that 3 mm, to the other leather

I haven’t worked with suede before. How close to the edge can you stitch to keep it fairly neat and not have too much extra on the outside of the stitch line

Yes the bullet loops first. Then the suede, but I thought to have a little overhang (or I guess underhang) to cover under eyelets. Would you use glue as well on the suede? Would you burnish any of the suede?

Understood my apologies, not willing to ship pick up only in Chandler Az.

They burn all of them here every July 11th Just one example of the many here

yes, its nice piece, I would have laced the front panel on as well for continuity . More Viking designs on front panel, back panel and flap. The Vikings did not leave any surface undecorated

So, you'll sew the bullet loops on first, then the suede, and then the eyelets?

Hi everyone. New to the group here and looking forward to this community. I just finished up my first buttstock cover and need some advise for glueing/stitching a suede backing on my next one. I want to use eyelets on the next one so looking to use the suede to protect. Here’s some pics of the first one and the one in progress

Those Vikings had some pretty nice stuff.

This may help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/101339-problem-with-reverse-stitch-tightness-on-singer-industrial/#findComment-685135

Yes lots of good options for motors these days. 🤩

I am going to cover two tasks. 1. Rivet removal tools needed: hammer, sharp center punch, awl, and drill will bit about the size of a number nine rivet. Flatten the burr end of the rivet, punch with center punch to dimple a hole in the burr end of the rivet, drill out the rivet until the burr comes out. Punch out the rest of the rivet with an awl. Be careful not to burn the leather; I use to use a Drimal tool, but it creates too much heat and burns the leather. Stirrup twist: the Blevins pin part can be placed in two different directions. If the pins are facing outward, you cannot twist the ends properly. The pins need to be facing inward, or when the stirrup end is folded, the pins will be toward the fender. In this position, the twist is 180 degrees, and the pins will now face outward (or toward the horse). To set the twists, the stirrup end needs to be wet and the saddle placed on a stand with the stirrups weighted to set the twist. Often, the twisted leather does not need to be wrapped after setting. But, I wrap them most of the time.

Genius! A larger needle solved the problem, even though I don't understand why it only happened in reverse. I will take the win! Thanks!!!!

if it was good enuf for the Vikings its good enuf for me

For me, whatever contact cement the hardware store has on the shelf. At the moment, Weldwood, I think? Something like that.

The number 19 needle is to small for Tex 135 thread. In thin you need a #22, medium a #23 and thick #24. Here is a good needle to thread reference chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) kgg

Perhaps go up in needle size to 20, 21 or 22 to see if that corrects it. That's all I can suggest.

Just about everyone on here uses glue. Usually a good contact glue. The make depends on where you live. the brands I use are UHU and Evostick. I also use PVA glue

@BlackDragon photo of hole item

does anyone use glue with leather working if so, what type of glue has everyone found works best when gluing leather together? or is it not good to use glue with leather?

Juki LU-563 135X16X19 needle Tex 135 bonded nylon 3 layers of 3oz veg tan (less than 1/4" total) Stitching forward gives a good result top and bottom (left side in pictures) -- when reversed (right side in pictures), the top looks OK, but the bottom has loops as though the top tension is too loose. Any thoughts where to look to correct this issue? Thanks, all!

What ever come about these machines?