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Hi All, if I use resolene over antique paste, can I use Aussie leather conditioner on the leather after the resolene has dried? thanks

With a small stack of southern yellow pine (preferably 2 x 8's) . . . a band saw . . . or good table saw . . . and a good bench sander . . . you can make a wooden copy of darn near any knife produced. You then make the sheath for the knife. Some good lessons at a local trade school or hobby shop on model making should be enough to get you started right well. I do it both for knives and guns . . . never had a problem May God bless, Dwight

I don't know if anyone is still active here but I just acquired a 55 and looking for a threading guide or manual. Thanks

It is best to have the knife. Or a well replicated model of the knife to make a well fitted sheath.

Hello, I am figuring out some if the logistics of starting a small business. My plan as of now is to sell discounted leather sheathes because I am a novice. My only concern is making a sheath pattern without having the actual knife on hand. What would you do then? Would I have to have the customer ship out their knife to get a proper sheath made? Thanks a lot for all of your input!

Thanks guys. It went faster than I usually get them done but I had fun with it. I got the holster done before I even sighted the pistol in.

That’s nice, love it!

Outstanding work!

Wow, a lot of work went into that! Nice job.

Looks like it's back to the drawing board for me, I think I made my design a bit too complicated.

P03 is probably needle-down position (mean how far the handwheel turns from needle-up position to needle-down position) P10 is supposedly for breaking in the machine. I forget where I read that. This Stitchman Servo: The missing manual may give you ideas about some of the others.

It will certainly out last me! If used as intended (or possibly even abused!) I can't see any fail points on it, an unusually well made bit of Chinese gear.

Hi folks, I’m closing out my leather handbag studio and offering two professional-grade machines in a clean, bundled sale. Ideal for a maker looking to upgrade or expand their setup: 🪡 TechSew 2700 Industrial Sewing Machine Cylinder-arm model with removable flatbed extension. Great for leather, canvas, and bag construction. Mounted on the original table with motor and controls. Lightly used and stored indoors. 🌀 Cobra NP-4 Leather Skiving Machine Reliable edge-thinning skiver, also mounted on its original industrial table. Great for prepping strap ends and clean finishes. 🎁 Bonus supplies included: – Heavy-duty thread cones – Zippers – Pleather scraps – Various accessory pieces 🛠 Machines were in good working order before storage. They have not been serviced recently, so I’m selling them as-is. 💰 Asking $2,300 OBO for the full bundle. 📍 Located in Lancaster County, PA – local pickup only. Open to buyer-arranged freight, but I will not pack, pallet, or ship. Photos will be added this weekend, but feel free to message me with questions or for early interest. Thanks for reading, Nicole

Nice!!

That (simple) stamping with the white stitching really pops out at you!

This one was kinda fun to build. Ruger new super blackhawk

I got a pig in a poke used servo motor with a parameter sheet that doesn't quite match up. I went through and made the best sheet I could based on playing with the knobs. P2 and P4 are the same. The printed sheet had far fewer entrys than the control box gives me. P10 to 012 seem to be for automatic sewing of some kind. It'll run and stop the the number of seconds specified by 11 and 12, repeatedly until you cut the power. Turn the switch on, it cycles until you turn it back off. No idea of the brand. If anybody knows or cares to speculate about the mystery parameters, I'm all ears. I have enough to make it work.

Awesome! Thank you so much for the help!

I regularly sew padded straps as shown in your picture using TSC-441 clone (Cobra Class 4). I typically sew 1-2 layers of 9-10 oz bridle leather over a pad of 1/8" neoprene wrapped with 4-5 oz chrome tanned leather. The pad turns out fine with a #25 needle and #277 thread. I make English tack as well, and prefer to hand sew bridles, reins, and most repairs. I use the 441 machine mainly for halters, and it did a good job sewing new shearling on a surcingle (8-9 oz strap).

If it has a Singer flatbed industrial size base, any industrial sewing machine dealer can sell you a table and whatever else you need. If the base or your needs are out of the ordinary, we'll need more information. More information and a picture of the head should get you more information than you'll ever need. These guys love to type about sewing machines. I'll break this off the tail end of a 16 year old thread, Hopefully, you can fill in some blanks ...

They use the Schmetz 331LR needles, which at one point I think were discontinued, but looking online it appears some suppliers show inventory so maybe they started making them again? Landis #1 Needles Parts I highly doubt will be available, other than finding good used parts or making your own. If anyone were to have them, check with Eli Schlabach at Landis Machine Co. in Arthur, IL (217-543-3464). He's mainly in Landis #3 and Landis #16 machines, but he might have something.

I also have a Cowboy 4500, as to the thickness, it will do it. And as wizcrafts say you’d need to probably experiment some with needles, feet and foot pressure to get the appearance of the stitch you’re looking for. Here is a pic of a test piece I tried shortly after I got my machine, yes, it will sew thick!

Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get answers here.

You didn't offend anybody I know. I often learn about people being dead after I wish them happy birthday on the book of faces!

Hello. I found a Landis #1 at a very good price and in considering buying it. I have gotten into a lot more heavy harness work but need to sew with natural thread, linen/cotton. My question is, how hard are the parts to find these days? Needles, awls, etc...? Thanks so much for any and all help. Brian Merrick