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Adler 69 should be the same and i once made an tension assembly of an pfaff 145 fit onan adler 67 Adler 67 68 69 167 168 and 169 all have the same tension assembly

I split this off an old topic since it really doesn't match up with that thread. Better to not mix topics in the same thread, especially old threads.

Thank you, this very helpful. do you mean that when sewing multiple layers of upholstery leather I should use a larger needle than the chart recommend? Thank you Ok thank you

Hello, Recently acquired and old adler (chandler) 67-gk373. The tension assembly on the front of the machine is a mess, to say the least. To get the original part (0067 000224) it's about $400 canadian. Ouch. Are there any alternative replacements that might work? There is an adler 69 assembly available from Amazon, but unsure if that would work. I tried searching here but couldn't find anything. But that could just be my incompetence at searching. Lol Thanks for your time!

2/3 oz "peanut" Bison inside, 4/5 oz veg outside. Fancy edge at the top will be "chocolate" gator

That's going to be a nice wallet. Is it chrome tan interior and veg tan shell? I just can't get a nice wallet. Functional, but nothing special and the pockets are always too tight.

Thank you. Should be able to improve the looks with a little more time than an hour also? Winters coming so maybe lots of time to expand on the idea.

Me neither, I have however had luck carrying them open on a sling (two side by side lengthwise). Its also something that might be able to incorporate into a scabbard. Putting them on a butt stock causes a lot of snagging.

Wow, very nice and impressive work. Tweak the dimensions and this should work for any cartridge.

Thank you. I have a tendency to agree if the dye isn't applied with the proper air pressure to drive the dye into the leather. From what I have seen on youtube people are using pressure settings in the sub 20 lb pressure range and the dye is basically a top coating. Probably because most people are painting model figures/cars/nails/cakes/etc. I use a 30 lb pressure setting when applying the dye with multi coats in different directions to get a more even dying which I apply after the oiling process. My basic process is oil/dye/oil. Thank you. The shaker part is probably not necessary, just an added feature. Many, many years ago the father while trying to teach me some basic bodyman techniques always said to shake the paint when I refilled or changed to a new cup on the gun. I guess it just stuck. kgg

Good job my friend, you got it!!! I've never had luck carrying tapered cartridges in a buttstock type holder so I quit even trying open type holders of any kind. You will have to let me know how it works on the trail.

I don't know if a dye shaker is a need or a want, lol. But you have built a really cool setup, and you can learn to paint in your off time.

I bought a Dürkopp 291 recently. The table is junk but I can get a new one for $100. The Varistop V720 does not seem to work and the motor spins but does not engage. It has pneumatic controls that do not work either. It is 220V 3 phase. I am interested in removing all the electronics and outing on a servo motor. Is this easy? I paid $50 for the machine. Is it worth it?

Nothing special, just felt like sharing my latest project. Wallet for a friend Tried to make a $ without making a $

Airbrushing produces a pretty appearance . . . and can be feathered to the extent that it is very very uniform in color. It can also be used to make a two or 3 or even more . . . toned layers of color . . . making some really unique and lovely color(s) or color patterns. BUT . . . airbrushing is only a light surface dying technique. Almost any scrape or beating will remove the dye . . . there is a thread on here about re-dying shoes . . . the scrape on his right shoe proves my point . . . as shoes (especially Oriental made) are very lightly air brushed with the appropriate cheap thin dye. I much prefer and seriously advocate dip dying if one wants one color . . . and wants the item to be able to stand up to at least some serious abuse. May God bless, Dwight

That would be very easy duplicated on a laser engraver . . . And using some oddball scrap leather . . . shouldn't take over 3 or 4 tries to get the first pattern done for it. I don't need any such cartridge holder . . . but if I did . . . I think I would like that pattern . . . especially if I were using something bottle necked like a .308 / 30-30 / 30-06 or so. Would be a good deal for a deer hunter . . . maybe even incorporated in a butt stock cheek weld riser. Shouldn't be too hard to do . . . even sew the thing on a big rig machine like a Cowboy 4500 May God bless, Dwight

Not exactly the same but kinda the same idea. I have a couple other projects going on and then Ill see if I can figure out something like this for my 7 SAUM.

there either is a big thumb screw OR a slotted screw (flush with the lid or a bit deeper) in about the same spot for adjusting the foot pressure. But if you dial in a too low foot pressure the friction between needle and leather may lift your sewing material when the needle bar is rising.

Some AI notes on Jojoba oil and Neatsfoot oil. Jojoba oil is chemically nearly identical to the sperm whale. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester that closely resembles human sebum. It penetrates leather fibers well, moisturizes deeply, and is less likely to darken leather or cause discoloration. It is also stable, won't go rancid, and is hypoallergenic. It is often recommended for delicate leather items and is favored for leaving a natural feel without heavy saturation. However, it is more expensive and can be harder to apply evenly without over-saturating the leather. Neatsfoot oil is derived from cattle bones and is a traditional, widely used conditioner for rugged and outdoor leather items like boots and saddles. It penetrates deeply and restores suppleness and flexibility to leather. However, it can darken leather significantly and may turn rancid if over-applied, which can negatively affect the leather and its stitching over time. It is suitable for thicker, durable leathers but needs cautious use. Neatsfoot oil is still commonly used for leather boots, saddles, and outdoor gear. It deeply conditions but may soften or darken lighter leathers over time and must be used in moderation to prevent damage to stitching. kgg

Do you mind posting a photo of the top of your machine?

Hello, Tove! Thanks for your advie! Yes, I didn’t apply any sealer to the shoes, since many YouTubers in their videos just use conditioners after re-dyeing their shoes. They then create a gloss or mirror shine, which looks like a coating or sealing effect. So I did the same, but I didn’t realize it would turn into a disaster. I've just looked up that Fiebing's Caranauba Creme which you've mentioned but fortunately it's not sold in Korea. I think I might put Fiebing's Leather Sheen or Resolene on my shoes after I re-dye them again Also I've seen many people talking about using neatsfoot oil, let me look into whether this is also suitable for sealing my leather shoes, or if it will play more of a conditioner role for them.

Thank you kgg! These are fantastic works

Below is the photo which is mistakenlly pulled down. It was after I deglaze the shoes thorugh acetone.

Hi @Shoe repair daughter To do this right, we really need a listing of what you have, pictures, condition, pricing and whether you'll ship or if it will require pick up. Thanks for offering it here. The Marketplace Rules are linked here for your review: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/71-items-for-sale/