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  2. Do you need it translucent because you cover the entire pattern with it? I've used blue tape to hold patterns onto the leather
  3. Why does it need to be translucent? Frog Green or Yellow are low tack painters tapes. Green is lowest tack, but even Yellow is far lower than regular paper masking tape. I've been using them for years
  4. Not even sure if this is the right section for this. But I didn't find a subform for Magic. So I am trying to make a Chop Cup, and am hoping someone here has made one. Without giving away the trick, was wondering what you material you used in making it that turned it from a regular cup into a chop cup. if you are familiar with the gimmick you know what I mean. I have the design figured out (it's basically a dice cup) but I can't figure out the last piece of this puzzle.
  5. Yesterday
  6. I got the dragon scale stamp on Amazon from this seller...DandS ltd. I believe he is a dealer for Sergey Neskromniy
  7. Experimenting with same idea. Plain old econo veg tan belly, just tossed in a ziplock baggy with a little bit of the dye, rubbed around for a couple seconds, kinda pressed excess off in the bag, and blotted with a paper towel rolling it across with my finger. This is just a simple crafting dye from hobby lobby. No clue what the effect will be, if it will hold, or if it will stain anything it touches. Anyone try RIT dye before? But I’ve never dyed leather before, just stained, usually with water or soda, or a sharpie, or you get the idea. Clearly I don’t know what I’m doing, but I’m happy to share my mistakes… er… technique development process. Yeah, I like that, technique development process… After all, This Is My First Rodeo
  8. I'll do that. thank you. But I need it to be transparent or at least translucent. Isn't green tape opaque? That is why I have been using masking tape but it makes a mess, especially on veg tanned leather. Cleaning requires saddle soap and scrubbing which, of course, ruins the surface. I've tried every other transparent/translucent tape I could find around here but like I said earlier, they either do not stick of leave residue.
  9. Further down the page a chappie has posted 'Templates' and he mentions his 'green tape' Ask him the brand
  10. I often purchase patterns to make leather items. I need to stick those patterns onto the leather. with sticky tape and then take it off once the pattern is cut. That is when the problem arises. The tape invariably leaves sticky residue behind. I have tried several different types of tape but they either do not stick well or they leave a residue. I have clearly not tried the correct tape. What would be the best brand to use for this?
  11. Found the kit on sale for less than the template, so I’m using it as the to make my own. Apparently, I’m out of card stock, so I decided I would just use it as a master. Definitely not as easy as you might think. Not difficult, but not as easy as it sounds. The key part I found was placing grain-to-grain, and using my green tape to keep it from moving. (career cook, habits all carry over…). Pretty decent results, at least can work with it… (center left). And before anyone gets too rankled by it, once I traced it, I pulled it off, leaving no damage or residue. I’m not really a fan of key fobs like the original with one side flesh and the other grain, so I’m also using it to make a fold-over. And before anyone tries to jump on me again, I know not to use ballpoint on the grain, these were all development, not product. Having taken the dimensions and hole punch placement, I discovered that the original is not a circular arc (far right). Although it probably designed from Sacred Geometry, I didn’t want to math any more than I had to, so went back to trying to spin it around. (This is where the tape really came in handy, actually). Again, not as easy as it first sounds… Even using a pair of awls to mark the holes and line up, it just wasn’t lining up. With my redneck engineering brain finally kicking in I drew a line on the belly, and a centerline on the master. Lo and Behold! (Bottom) Any, maybe I’m doing it right, maybe I’m doing it wrong. Just teaching myself along the way. This Is My First Rodeo, after all…
  12. Nice leather and steel. I like your styling. What tool do you use on the bottom one, the scales?
  13. Clean your wood tools just like you would anything else wood. At the most basic, grab some mineral spirits and #000 steel wool and lightly scrub (always with grain) to break loose the surface. Go from there to 120g sandpaper LIGHTLY to remove the bulk, wipe down with spirits and clean tack cloth, move to 220g, wipe down with spirits and a NEW clean tack cloth. Probably ok to move on to 400g wet sandpaper, wiping down again, then 800g, 1000g, 1200g, 2000g. A lot of woodworkers will go to buffing wheels after 400g, and finish out from there, or stop at 1200g. Cocobolo though, can have such a great luster that I personally keep going as far as I can (I have pads out to 8000g). Personally, I keep going with stropping leathers, but that’s just my perfectionist ocd neuroses having their way with me… A key component with it is always use a clean rag between grits, and fresh water with each grit, otherwise the rougher particles will remain. If you already do any woodwork, sorry for my soapbox, and if anyone wants a refresher or to learn more, Woodworkers Source has some great resources. But, This Is My 1st Rodeo, after all…
  14. Hey all, I got an order for a white belt, but have no idea where to source that sort of material without buying a whole hide. If anyone has any white full-grain veg tan or knows of where to get it, I would much appreciate the help!
  15. From a business point of view there is always a good market share available for utility-type holsters, designs more attuned to protecting and securing the handgun while keeping it comfortably available. An example of my usual comments about the 4 major factors of holster design; comfort, security, accessibility, concealment. Whenever one factor is emphasized there will be compromises in the other factors. Each user must determine which factor(s) are most important and how much compromise is acceptable. My time in the business was 1972 to 2015. Back in the mid-1970s I filled orders from hunters, guides, and outdoorsmen for full-flap holsters, usually for large handguns suitable for hunting or survival needs. That market remained steady over the years and as late as 2010 or 2012 I completed orders for customers literally all over the world including scientific, geological survey, oil exploration groups, most of them operating in remote areas and extreme climates. I remember another order from a motion picture production featuring pre-WW2 uniformed police officers using full-flap cross-draw holsters. Another slice of the market, somewhat similar, is chest holsters for use by hunters, backpackers, recreational vehicle users, and others. Protection and security are primary factors with accessibility and comfort also considered. For those trying to build a business it never hurts to consider product lines to meet customer needs. Many makers seem to concentrate their efforts on what appeals to themselves rather than focusing on what other people need or want. My 2 cents worth for the day.
  16. yes great advise folks and thanks, I was kind of thinking this myself. I am leaning now towards a consew 226 complete with servo , table and working and looks in very very nice condition. Price is 800 candian but someone else has first right of refusal on it. If its still available for me next week I plan to buy it. I was able to dig around on this forum for past posts on this machine to realize the thread size and leather thickness is going to be just fine for my needs. Its not a cyl arm but will work and my budget is 1000 cnd max so I think this consew may do the trick. Thanks again everyone for all the tips and help over the last few months..........wayne
  17. Thank you. If it looked awesome before antique, it should look even better now... Now all the little details really jump out and give it some real depth. Thank you, and my pleasure.
  18. @waynebergman When buying your first leather machine, buy a complete working machine that has everything intact. If you have trouble finding information about a particular make and model, move along until something well known comes up.
  19. Thanks guys, Jarrod here's the background stamp i used on that one........Tandy Leather E294-03 Craftool� Stamping Tool 66294-03
  20. Yep, I use wet canvas or a rag.
  21. Nice work on them sheaths. Them are nice! If you don't mind what background tool did you use with the oak leaf? Beautiful knives! Thanks.
  22. Some very nice blades and sheaths. Really like the one with the tooled antler.
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