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  2. When you go to put the head on the pedestal stand have your mounting hardware ready. Don't try to do it without help.
  3. Welcome to the group. Bunch of great people here. Enjoy!
  4. Hi, my name is Ingrid Guerci. I’ve been making knife handles for knife kits and I want to learn how to make sheaths for my knives. During my research I came across this forum and found it to have a lot of useful information so I’m joining to learn more about leather crafting. I’m already thinking about making other things such as pouches. I wonder what kind of a newbie project would be a good tutorial.
  5. Well I am supposed to take delivery of a cobra class 4 sewing machine in the morning. I'll keep you all posted. Hopefully I can find some help to set it all up.
  6. Nice work! They look great. I thought I was the only 1 carrying the old style Gerber multi-pliers. I carry the black oxide version.
  7. Yeah I want to make a PID knife oven as well, just had not really had the funds. Them good PID controllers are not cheap.
  8. I was going through my drawers the other day and realized I had 8 Schrade Old Timers. One very large one I've had since the 80's and several others I've collected. I decided to give 2 of the trappers to my sons. I had to make a smaller pouch with a belt clip. I also wanted a pouch for my old Gerber. I used the holster plate on the class 3 and it came out pretty well. The smaller one is the same as what I did for the boys. It will fit many smaller knives.
  9. I've never used anything like that, I use the PID oven I have for tempering knife blades, it holds a temperature within + - 3 degrees. at 150 for a couple hours it really hardens up the leather, when you put the gun in it almost snaps in place.
  10. Thanks for the info. Yeah I might make a drying cabinet with a few low wattage bulbs wired inside it.
  11. No lining, just 8-9 oz. Herman Oak. it could be lined, just by using maybe 6-7 oz. with the liner to make it 8-9. I started making holsters using 6-7 because that's what I had on hand for my knife sheaths and it works but I think 8-9 is just right for holsters. I wet mold my holsters then put them in a PID controlled toaster oven on top of a piece of thin card board at 150 for half an hour, then flip it for another half hour and on and on till it's close to good and dry but not to much, not making jerky here. take it out and let it rest and dry till the next day.
  12. A few years back I was having trouble with my light tan dyes . . . not being even . . . especially saddle tan. I don't recall the impetus that moved me to try oiling first . . . I did . . . have NEVER had another problem like that since. I use a cheap pig hair brush from Harbor freight . . . put on a very light coat . . . just enough to make it look wet . . . Let it "dry" for 24 hours . . . the dye goes on perfect . . . every time. I don't always oil for black . . . it depends on the leather . . . But if it is anything other than black . . . it ALWAYS gets oiled first. That is for all my holsters . . . belts . . . sheaths . . . and gun cases . . . which is mainly what I do. May God bless, Dwight
  13. Thanks. So is it lined with something like calf skin or something else. Thanks. Appreciate the info.
  14. I've thought about it but never actually done it. To me, I just thought it'd be better than all that tedious hole punching!
  15. Thanks purplefox! Thanks Diesel, I drew up the pattern for it.
  16. Thanks guys. The little plastic pots I've seen say v69 thread max. But maybe thats wrong. I really thought a 22 needle should be big enough but ill get some 23s and consider your needle brand recommendations. Im sewing mostly through two layers of WeatherMax 80 poly canvas and sometimes also two layers of polyester binding. With the dense binding it can be a challenge.
  17. That is Sexy! Nice work. Looks great! May I ask if a pattern was used? If so who's pattern. Thanks.
  18. Yesterday
  19. That is a very nice holster
  20. Just finished this pancake holster for a .40 Smith & Wesson Shield. 8-9 oz Herman Oak
  21. That makes four of us! I discovered that little trick not long after I started leatherwork, my little machine couldn't sew leather but it could punch little holes. Made my saddlestitching much easier (and neater).
  22. Thanks for moving it, Northmount, the thread has grown bigger than I intended. Bert, thanks for the vid, for some reason it didn't occur to me to search youtube (which is odd considering how much time I spend on it ). Billybopp, the plywood "base" under the leather is not fixed, unlike the metal sheet underneath that which is screwed down. I have engraved a line in the metal as an aid in lining up the plywood, but you're right, if I make an alignment line in the other axis I can then make indexing marks which should give me some degree of consistency (at least within a couple of mm). More fettling required. As for the depth of cut, I hadn't thought about that. It is certainly possible to vary the power for different lines but that has to be done in the design stage by creating different layers. With an imported image like I'm using that can't be done as it's all one layer so all cuts are the same depth. More thought required. My next step, however, is to use a smaller image and experiment on a decent piece of veg, one that can be cased properly.
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