kevinhopkins

Happy Hammering! Let us know how you do! Kevin/Springfield Leather

Hi Richard, If you're absolutely sure that those anvils are from osborne, then they should just press in.... As long as your punch is osborne, those anvils should work. If they're not.... I believe Osbornes' are copper colored, and I think Tandys are brass... Kevin

Hi Harvey, Actually, I buy quite a bit from Japan, but I'm a dealer, so we can purchase in qty. That's really about the only way it's affordable, unless you want something reeeeaaaaaalllllly bad! But for what it's worth, if there is something that you like, and if it can be had from Craft Japan, I'd be happy to order it for you, and just pass it thru to you, as long as I can cover my cost. Kevin@springfieldleather.com

I've seen a lot of leather in my day... And I've seen some perforated leather. Actually, I probably have some, but I don't know off the top of my head if it's black or not. But most perforated leather has a very small perf pattern, and looks pretty much like old headliner in a car. To get something with larger holes like you're describing will be difficult, if not impossible, unless you do it your self. And actually, since you're only doing a vest, I don't think it would be too bad.... You've gotta have some patience, since you said you're a machinist...right? I think you could select the leather that you felt was the right thickness for your vest, and just punch the holes. A template would be a pretty simple thing, and altho it might make you see spots for a day or two, I think you could punch all the parts in an evening. Kevin Hopkins

Hi Casey, One way to tell is something is white mold or grease is to shoot hot air at it, you can use a hair dryer, or if you have a friend that's full of it, just use them. If it's grease, it will retreat back into the leather, if it's mold, you'll know. Kevin Hopkins

Harold Arnett has the ability to have conchos made for you. His company is called Texhas, and it will come up with a search. I've got some copper buckles, but they're western. Also have copper conchos. Kevin Hopkins

Hi... I think I may have spoken with you by phone in the past... What you're wanting is difficult, but not impossible. But I can tell you this: When you do find someone that is willing to make the leather that you want, the question is going to be, "how much do you need?" Almost all tanneries require a tanning drum to be filled before they'll make leather. But most tanneries have "sample drums" that will run smaller qtys of hides. When you talk to these guys, make sure you have your ducks in a row! Hal Thiele has a tannery in Milwaukee (I think). I'm pretty sure that he can do what you want. He's expensive. Horween tannery can pretty much produce anything that they want to produce. There are a number of jobbers that can get the leather done for you, but they'll want a sample of what you have that will work for you. You might contact Newberger bros in chicago. (ask for Phil) They carry a ton of job lot leathers, and may have something that would work, and if not, they may know where it's made. I highly suspect overseas. If this doesn't get you on the right track, you're more than welcome to either call or email me at springfield leather, and I'll try to get you some additional info. 800-668-8518 Kevin

Hi! Glad to hear that you're swamped! Come back and visit sometime! Kevin Hopkins

Hi... For what it's worth, Ben's got it all pretty much right. The rouge that you use really doesn't matter Too much..... Depending on what you're doing with it. If it's for your swivel knife, usually red or white is best, with white being the fastest cutting, so that it only requires a few strops to get a blade with the proper angle slick again. The trick is to make sure that your blade has a proper angle on it to start with. The reason that Tandy only sells the white stuff is because of people like me.... I have a hard time being neat, and it seemed like everytime that I used the red rouge, I would get some itty bitty pc of it on my leather!!!! And it don't come off! White solved that problem, and slicked up my knife with just a lick or two. As to the Aluminum oxide, tin oxide, cerium oxide, and whatever other oxides, they'll all sharpen a blade to a varying degrees depending on how you use them. If I was a knife maker, and wanted to make a knife that would split frog hairs, I'd go thru all the steps to sharpen that knife. But if I'm carving leather, a little pc of leather with a bit of white rouge on it will get me by for quite a while, or at least until I drop my dumb knife! Kevin Hopkins

hi Spence, I really got a shock a couple years ago, because we'd been doing the same thing... just going about business and happier than a gopher in soft dirt! Then, Wham! Shipments to us were returned to australia, and just all kinds of hassle. And according to our supplier, they had the same thing happen on their end. So I guess it was a concentrated effort from both ends. Anyway, at least it's still available, even if it is expensive. I'm working on trying to get it here cheaper, and may have found a way. It seems the key is in who you buy it from in Australia. I've checked several sources for the lace, hoping that I might be able to get it cheaper because of the volume that we do, but a couple of them wanted to sell roo lace to me for more than I'm selling it for in the states!!!!!! I'll know more in a month or so. Kevin

hi Spence,

Hi... Jim sure is a good carver, and you're doing pretty darned good with your efforts yourself! An old time leather crafter showed me how to do that stuff years ago, and he told me something that really helped me with my free hand swivel knife stuff. He said "all patterns are sort of like triangles. Sections of triangles. As long as your cuts all end up pointing toward the bottom of the triangle, everything looks pretty good" It helped me anyway.... And this guy's name was Stan Miles. He worked with Ken Gregson in the St Louis Tandy store, worked in a billfold factory, (carving belts and wallets) during ww2. He showed me how to western floral carve a wallet in about 10 to 12 minutes. Done. He used to make western carved belts and sell them in the little town that he lived in (Pelican Rapids Mn) for 10 bucks apiece. THat was in the 80's. He was quite a guy, and a heck of a leather crafter. Kevin Hopkins

For what it's worth, the bick and dye mixing thing is a wonderful deal. It does take experimentation, but it opens so many doors that it's just amazing. We've mixed oil dyes, alcohol dyes, and even acrylics (believe it or not) with it. It just seems to want to work with you. But as to all the finish problems that we've all had at one time or another, I think it helps to look at those things as an opportunity to get smarter, and learn to fix things. Bo Riddle says that he got to be fairly good with dyes and finishes, only because he screwed so many of them up in his early years! Kevin Hopkins

You really need a heavy stitcher for holsters... We might be able to help with the "not a million bucks" part. Kevin/ Springfield Leather Co. 800-668-8518

Hello Cowboy, Actually, I've got a lot of scraps that would work. Lizard, shark, snake, elephant, ostrich, and probably others. Kevin@springfieldleather.com

Hi, What Bree said is a good idea.... We do a lot of belts every week such as what you're describing, and we're stitching them on the same machine you are. It should pull those stitches down far enough. That way you can use your roller guide. Kevin

Hi there frustrated.... I can really sympathize with you. For what it's worth, we ship about 100 orders per day to individual prisoners across the country. Day in, and day out, it doesn't vary much. Those guys really have learned how to apply and use finishes. We sell them a zillion bottles of Fiebings products to every 2 or 3 bottles of eco flow stuff. The finishes that they seem to gravitate to are Clear Lac (neat lac), Angelus acrylic, Pro Clear Acrylic, Leather Balm, and Resolene. Clear lac must be thinned first for proper usage. There are 4 zillion home recipes out there, and about the same number of finishing techniques. Without writing a book on how to use all those things, you're more than welcome to call and talk to either myself or Bo Riddle in the shop, and we'll do our best to help. Best wishes for success! Kevin

Hi... a speed reducer is a pulley system that mounts to the bottom of the table. It will slow down your machine about 30 to 50%. A servo motor is kind of like a dimmer switch on a light. Easy to control, and will usually allow even an inexperienced person to sit down and sew with success. I know that you said you really can't afford a new machine, but if there's any way that you can, it would be a good idea. For what it's worth, I wouldn't recommend buying a used machine from a friend.... things have a way of not working out so well. As to it not having reverse, it might not be too big of a deal.... especially if you don't intend on sewing for money. But if you're thinking about trying to make a little money with your hobby, I'd be going for the reverse. Sewing can machines open a lot of doors for you.... Hope yours works out good for you! And by the way, if you decide you want to pursue the reducer or motor, tell me where you are, and I'll point you to the closest source. Best wishes Kevin Hopkins

Really nice work Tina.... And I love grapes! Kevin

Hi... Goat rawhide is fine for braiding, depending on what you're braiding.... THe only thing about the goat, is that it will be thin. THe widest use for that product is probably drums and musical instruments, but it would work for braiding, as long as you require thin strips. I don't think strength is any better than cow or horse, but then again, it's thinner than those. Best wishes, Kevin

Hi... That's a good machine, but there's a couple of things that you might want to be aware of. Just in case you're not a "sewing machine person", you need to know that there's a good chance that the machine you're getting, has a clutch motor on it. And that's fine, if you have a little experience. But if you don't, you might want to be aware that the machine will take off like a scared rabbit when you put your foot on it, and that can be intimidating for some folks. (My first one had me scared to death!) I'm not a big fan of used machines, but that's mainly because I sold them for so many years. But if you have sewing machine experience, or have a friend that does, the machine you're looking at could be a good one. And it wouldn't be hard to slow it down with either a speed reducer, or a servo motor, or both, if you decide that you need to. Best wishes, Kevin

I think everyone has had a similar experience with leather from tandy. But in all fairness, in todays leather world, the mexicans and folks in argentina produce leather that's pretty much as good as anything in our country. (I'm a Hermann Oak fan) the days of urine tanning are pretty much done. And I think, (if I remember correctly) that it's Teneria that has the old Bona Allen live oak formula. It was pretty hard to beat that leather for tooling and dyeing. The reason that so many have an issue with the tandy stuff, is that, well, they're like the rest of us. They want to make absolutely for sure and certain that they're paying the least amount possible for their leather. And mostly, we get what we pay for. Kevin

Hi Zack, You can use kevlar, but normally it's a flat type thread, and is difficult to use on a machine. I'm sure you can buy it in machine format, but it might be difficult to find in small qtys. most folks I know, (including our shop) simply use bonded nylon for inlaying Stingray. we've never had an issue to date. And you can get bonded nylon about anyplace. Kevin/Springfield leather

For what it's worth, you can use a mix of about 30% alcohol to 70% water and it will help with the initial problem. And it doesn't affect the finishing ability. Pretty much all of the "carve eze" recipes have a secondary effect like you experienced. They sure make it easier to cut with a swivel knife tho. And by the way, We've got Hermann oak for 4.79 per sq ft. Kevin@springfieldleather.com

Hi Rickey, The time in tanning is the major reason for the cost difference. We used to bring in the skins with our lace, but it's gotten expensive and difficult. At the moment, it's illegal to import the hides from Australia, without a license from fish and wildlife dept in this country. anyone can get one for about 100 bucks. THen there are permits and fees that australia has to get for each and every shipment to this country. you might get lucky and avoid getting caught for a while, but sooner or later, someone in customs will check out the lace or the skins, and you'll have a problem. we've seen it happen countless times. There are a number of various lace bevelers on the market, and most work fairly well. And you're right, there's nothing like veg tanned Roo lace. The chrome doesn't have the strength. Kevin