kevinhopkins

Hi... for what it's worth, a clicker press will open all sorts of doors for you. maybe you don't "need" one, but sure as the world, if you have one, you'll use it! Especially if folks get to know that you have it. You can find used clicker presses that are quite serviceable and good, if you just look around a bit. Just make sure that you ask about the type of power that it takes to run it. 3 phase can be expensive to convert. Kevin Hopkins

Lots of hammering goes a long way toward drawing customers.... we've always had good success with wristbands, especially if there's a good segment of kid traffic... Letting some of the kids do their own really worked well also, but you've got to be careful not to offer too many choices. Kevin

Hi all.... I'd advise anyone interested in buying this machine to talk to someone who has one. We bought one to see if we could offer it to our inmate customers. I bought it from the guy that brought it into this country. He paid 50 bucks, and passed it on to me for that. It's extremely simple, and it will sew, some of the time. You'll probably never need any parts, because the machines come with a bunch of extras.... Hint, hint.... By the way, what do boat anchors sell for these days??? Kevin

Hi Badger, I sell precut ovals in several sizes. Largest in stock is about 105mm. But if you need maybe up to a hundred, I'm sure I could have a die made. And if you'd rather have a die made, it's possible that I could handle that for you as well. I think we have access to the least expensive die maker in the country. You can reach me at either 800-668-8518, or kevin@springfieldleather.com Let me know if I can be of help. Kevin

you're a turkey! I wanted to go, but the dumb advertising worked, so I had to stay and help fill orders...maybe next year!!! Thanks for the pix! Kevin

Hi... I do business with Albest... They are a good source for clips, but you better be able to use a fair number of them. They are the manufacturer, and they don't like to deal with small invoices. If you need a name and # you can call me at the store, or email me. Kevin@springfieldleather.com

For what it's worth, if you're close to a Tandy thing, they've got a book called how to carve leather that has a zillion leaf designs in it, many of which would lend themselves to be reduced. So does their Lucky 8 and Belts Galore books. Happy Hammering!

I don't want him in Missouri!!!! He'd probably form a guild or something!! Kevin

I've played guitar for about 40 yrs now... That really scared me when I typed it... I guess mostly I can't play the same thing twice, but what comes out the first time pretty much makes me happy. And my wife is really easy to please... (I know...I've opened myself up, so just go ahead.... ) And I've also been playing the native american flutes for a few years too. Really enjoy both. Kevin Hopkins

Hi Kate, That's a great looking addition to any house! Isn't it amazing how much you learn when you do something like that? Great Job!!! Kevin

Hi... I sell machines, but I can give you some advice that I learned the hard way... First of all, I've got to say that it seems like you're approaching the machine issue with the right attitude. Your price point is reasonable. For what it's worth, if possible, when buying an industrial sewing machine, buy a NEW one... You might be able to deal with the issues that come with used machines if you're a sewing machine person, but if you're not, a used one will certainly make you become one quickly. (at least usually) Another tip is to make sure that you buy your machine from someone that you really have a good feeling for. All sewing machines come with a pretty decent warranty anymore, but those things aren't what's going to get you thru a difficulty. The person that you buy it from is going to be your lifeline, should you need one. In mentioning what you're wanting to do with the machine that you buy, you said one word that perked my attention: Holsters. I got the impression that sewing holsters wasn't critical, but that you wouldn't mind being able to do it. If you can eliminate the "holsters" thing, then a good heavy duty flatbed machine will do what you want. Steve sells several good models, and so does Artisan. In my opinion, if you decide to buy a new one from either of those folks, you'll do well. For Artisan, I think it's the 618-1SC, and I think Steve calls his an 18 class. Both are walking foot, needle feed machines with safety clutch features, and they're set up for leather. They're extremely user friendly, and will do what you're wanting. As long as you don't go trying to sew super heavy holsters or sheaths. If you're going to do that, you just need a different machine, period. Feel free to call if you have questions. I'll make sure I don't try to sell you a machine! (unless you want me too!) Happy sewing!!! Kevin Hopkins

Hi...As much as I hate to say it, I think a trip to the repair place is in order. As to the bobbin falling out, it's not an issue. There are several things that you need to have checked. First of all, I think your drive belt is a bit loose. (altho that shouldn't affect your sewing) It's quite possible that your shuttle is loose. The bobbin fits into a shuttle case. THe shuttle case attaches to the drive rod and is tightened by means of a screw. (possibly 2...I can't remember for sure) But if that shuttle is loose, it will do exactly what your machine is doing. It also seems like you might have a bit of thread somewhere in either the bobbin case, or between it and the shuttle, or somewhere in that mechanism. It can also contribute to what you're experiencing. Those old 31-15 machines were a standard of the industry, and usually can be kept running fairly easily. And before I forget it, make sure that the hand wheel is tightened on the shaft also. If you're a bit mechanically inclined, just tilt the head back, and while its tilted back, just start turning the wheel, and watch and listen. when that shaft turns, everything should turn. Sorry I can't be more help! Maybe someone can be a little clearer than I.... Don't be too frustrated! Kevin Hopkins

That's a great job! It's really nice to see when someone takes the time to make sure that they're coming up on the same side of the stitch when handstitching. Nice clean work! Kevin

Y'know... that's just really nice... I think there are a lot of ways you could go with that and really come up with some cool things... Great idea! Kevin

Hi Matt, I don't want to rain on your parade, but I think you've got a ton of valuable stuff that it might be difficult to deal with. For what it's worth, I think it might be a good idea to put together as many basic tool sets as you can. 6 stamps and a swivel knife and maybe a mallet and try to sell those. Keep in mind, that any leather crafter is already going to have at least some of what you have, and most will only want certain items. And the good stuff will naturally go first. There might be a number of folks that would enjoy getting their kids, nephews, or someone else started in leather work, and your being able to provide beginning tools and mallets might enable you to get the most for your supplie. For what it's worth, the dyes and finishes aren't worth much, and tracing patterns probably aren't either. Books might be, to the right people. Some of the larger saddle shops might be interested in the mallets if they're decent. Rawhide mallets are expensive these days, and those things should be worth some money. Even silver smiths can use those, and sometimes colleges teach it as well. Hope this helps a little! Kevin Hopkins

Hi... I've got the closures if you still need them. It's a swing latch, and Ohio Travel has them also. I think I've got two different sizes. Kevin@springfieldleather.com 800-668-8518

I absolutely love the color!!! It makes me want to watch Forrest Gump! Kevin

Hi... We manufactured a number of wallets and belts for years using Neat lac spray as a final finish. We switched to saddle lac, and really couldn't tell much difference. We just put down a light coat first, and another on top of it, and those wallets and belts are still walking into our store after many years of service. Kevin Hopkins

Hi...Bruce has got it! Harbor freight usually sells metal stamps for stamping letters into steel, and they work ok on leather. The only thing is that they're a bit difficult to use without getting some outside border markings on the leather. You'll want to practice first for sure. Normally, they've got 1/8th and 1/4". And for what it's worth, they're hard to beat on compressors too.... Kevin Hopkins

Just a thought, but you might want to make sure that it's ok to ship that hide from the country you're in.... Hopefully it is... I know that in the U.S. there are a lot of skins that will get held up in customs... Might be worth looking into... Kevin

Hi... I just wanted to 2nd what Luke said.... that dumb old book by Al Stohlman has some pretty timeless info in it,plus a lot of patterns that lend themselves well to someone that can't draw, because they're very adaptable to what you need. Kevin

Hi... One thing that you might want to keep in mind, is that there's a big difference between stamping on 2 oz leather, and stamping on 4oz leather. As long as your marble slab (granite) is on a good solid surface, you should be able to stamp just about anything onto 4 oz leather. But it's a different story when you go to 2 oz.... Then, you need all right stuff, like folks have mentioned. The dead blow mallet, making sure the granite is giving you all it can, and don't forget, the right moisture content is really important when trying to get good results with light weight veg leather like that. It can be challenging not to cut the leather, but with practice, you'll get it! Kevin Hopkins

Hi... You might try a chisel. I think it's one of the easiest way to make slits that are straight and correct. You can actually buy 1/4 or 1/2 inch ones, but anything longer than that, you might have to make. I've even adapted wood chisels to do that. Hope it helps... Kevin Hopkins

Hi...If you'll call me during store hours, I'll happily give you some leads. I'd do it here, but I'm at home and don't have them in front of me. 800-668-8518 Kevin Hopkins

Hi...one of the upshots of all this, is moisture content, as pretty much everyone has noted. And, as everyone has noted, the fridge does prevent mold, and keeps the leather from drying out. The carve eeze, shampoo, joy, and whatever else that we add to the water simply helps the leather to carve a bit smoother. But if you use some of those solutions too many times, the surface of the leather can begin to stiffen up, and not accept either water or dye terribly well. And you'd want to remember, that when you wet leather, and you're happily tooling away, and you notice that it seems a bit dry, and you need to add moisture, keep in mind that the leather is already wet...... it's just not wet enough! So be sparing as you add water. The conclusion of the matter is that for leather to tool well, and form well, the proper moisture content is needed. And it's experience that will tell you what that moisture level is. When you use quality leathers like Hermann Oak, or Wickett and Craig, or others of similar quality, moisture content will always be easier to deal with, simply because the leather is on your side! Happy Hammering! Kevin