Trox

They are all outsole sewing machines, for attaching soles on shoes. Trox

Hi, my best servomotor is an Efka dc 1600 needle position motor. I adjusted it ones, no need for more adjustments or speed reducers. Full control on the foot pedal, stitch-by-stitch and full speed, very strong. It is only one problem, the price. I bought a 600 W (220 V) brushless servo from Cobra Steve, with digital push buttons. Strong motor with speed limit settings, lowest speed setting 100 rpm. It does not have to be in motion in order to change the speed. The motor works very well, but is a bit sensitive on slowest speed limit; I will try to mount a speed reducer on it. Then it will be very good. If I should buy an other low price servomotor, I would buy the EPS servo from Cobra Steve. (Needle position motor) 350 $. Trox

Hi Buckow, Is this Adler 105-8 machine new to you? You know you have to adjust the stroke height of the jump foot. In case not; the jump foot is adjustable on the front. You have to adjust it for every thickness of material, so it clears the material and spring forward with a “click”. If the foot does not jump back forward, it will not be able to hold down the material, the result will be skipped stitches. Adjust the height of the foot so it just clears the material. The foot is spring loaded, when it clears the material and moves forward you will here a “click”. If the spring is too lose, adjust the tension with the nut on the right side on the foot. The foot pressure is adjustable on the top front of the machine, it is important to have enough foot pressure to stop the material from moving when the needle is down forming the loop. (If too much foot pressure, the feed dog will make bad markings in the leather) Use a new needle the right size for you thread, try to get this settings right and report back here. If it still skipping stitches we will look at the adjustments of the needle and hook. Best of luck, Trox

Hi Wiz, The Adler needle shims has been the subject of many discussions lately. I have a few big Adler machines myself; a 204-64, a 105-25 and an old class 5-27. But none of them has this shim system. So I did some checking in the different part lists, according to them this system first came on the newer 205-370 and 204-370 generation machines. I never own one or had the pleasure of taking one apart that is why this shim system is new to me too. I know it is a common rule to adjust the big older Adler’s with a (metric) size: 200 LR 328 needle, the space between the needle and the needle guard should be 0,2 mm. When the loop is been picked up, the shuttle tip should travel in the needle groove with a maximum play of 0,1 mm, but without deviating the needle. This is according to the Adler service manual. The machine may need to be adjusted for a bigger needle. He had better check the play with needle he wants to use. I use needles from 160 to 230 without adjustment, and have no missing stitches or broken needles. So it is not that important and delicate. He had also better make sure the shuttle rage and inner ring is clean, no thread pieces or dirt between them and the outer ring (Clean every part in the shuttle system). Mount it and tight the closing spring before making any adjustment. Trox

Hi Darren, I see the FA series starts as early as 1935, but when it ends I do not know. From http://www.singerco.com/support/machine-serial-numbers Trox

Hi, It is FA329069 Thanks Trox

Hi Sewmun, The machine I refer to is my 29K- 72. (Silver color) I bought this machine cheap from a school for physically retarded people. The machine has a 1450-rpm clutch motor with out reduction and a modern stand. It was almost new, no wear or signs of use. However it would not turn freely, so I guessed it was full of old hardened grease. I oiled it with petroleum and run it on full speed for a while. It was a little better, but still it was too hard to turn. So I took it apart and found the main pulley had small holes, for broken off pieces inside. It looked like some retard has used on full speed it without oil or grease when it was new. Instead of running it in on slow speed. It looked like the holes were made of extreme heat. The rest of the machine looked like new, no damage or signs of wear inside. However, inside the body, there were big pits in the casting with missing material. Many faults from the casting process everywhere. Too much material in some places that should have been grinded off, too little other places. The machine had a very tight fit, they maybe are? The needle bar driving lever to name a few, had to be polished, it was made to big. Without the use polishing paste instead of oil, it is no way this part would be run in by it self. When you look inside a German machine, you will see that the part is made with micrometer precision; this was made with precision of an inch. It took me a lot of polishing to get the machine in running condition. I do not use it every day so it still is tight, with some years of wear it will be like my Adler 30, smooth. (It maybe a luxury problem to have some extra material to wear off) The 145W- 305 on the other hand, is a old used machine (grey color), but it has a precision of a German machine, no faults inside the body there. When you open it, it is like a Swiss watch, bigger but the same looks and smell of quality. I do not know maybe my 29K was made on a Monday or a Friday afternoon. It sure looks like it was made in a hurry. Trox

I wonder what machine who will sew more than its max foot lift? Dürkopp Adler 205-370 foot lift by hand 15 mm, by foot 19 mm. It has to move the material true to make more than one stitch too. I guess that Weaver sample was done on a Union lockstitch. Not on a stock 205- 370, thats not possible. 15 to 16 mm maximum is more realistic, but why dont you ask the members who has one, a salesman will tell you everything you want hear. You know what I do, I read the manual from Dürkopp Adler, you only have to read the leaflet to see that sewing 21 mm is impossible, no matter what kind of sewing foot, jet motor, turbo reducer etc.. It is a needle breaking NO GO Trox trox

I try to build in a video here

　 　 You mean a poly board?! That should be strong enough for low speed, but you will need a bearing with a house for grease/ lubricate. These speed reducers are very heavy and sturdy built. You had better use some of your less expensive pulleys and mount them on a shaft with bearing underneath the table like the one in this you tube video; [media][/media] About good deals on the internet, the trick is to have an email search agent in the industrial sewing machine sales web site. And be the first to respond on a good add. I have those agents on every search that interest me, and receive the mails on my Iphone. But this you do know, you have done some very good deals your self, especial the Pearson. But others as well. Trox

Hi Sandy, Thank a lot, I better try to get it modified here. I do not want to ask you for more help now. To modify it like your cl. 5 is the easiest and best thing to do. You have already helped me a great deal, to make the right decision. You are right about the size of the wheel, is not big enough for a harness machine. And when the company does not ship, I better get it done here. I will try to ask in the local school for machinist, they will maybe do it cheaper for a training purpose. About the belt I am using; my cl. 5 has a very small two-sided V groove (with no flat bottom, see pic.) for a round belt. It is 7 mm at its widest and 5 mm deep. I found only one V belt that fit that groove, and the core measures 7 x 5 mm. That is the smallest belt I could find with the right length. This belt hits the bottom in the speed reducer groove (9,5 mm width). It is climbing on the hand wheel groove and hits the bottom in the other groove. The two grooves is too different, I have to alter one of them. I will alter the hand wheel one, no square V belt will ever work on this groove. You have a Pfaff 335, is it with a binder? I had a couple good offers a 335 machine before but I did not buy any. I was looking for a 345 machine that is a bit heavier rated. Maybe Pfaff do not produce the 345 anymore. The new 335 maybe comes with different types and sizes hook. I regret not buying one of the 335`s, despite the small hook, I think it is a great sewing machine. I newer seen a machine (without the 29K and the Juki 441) that is copied that much, It is maybe the most copied arm machine ever. It must be good. You can use size Nm 20 thread in it?, but not 15? With a bigger pulley and a stop motor, it must be good. Thanks for the help Sandy, I will post the modification of my hand wheel here later. Trox

Thanks guys for the history lesson, Sewmun you certainly know your Singer History. So this is the reason my Singer 144W- 305 has a “made in USA” and is of a much better quality than my Other Singer made in Scotland. When you look at the difference in tolerance and precision on parts, it is hard to believe they come from the same company. Many companies produce there products in different countries, but the product is always made to the company spec’s. Here they are not. Trox

Hi Sandy, they are not in the website, you have to ask for them. Maybe he still has one or two left. (He told me he had three, when I bought the last one not long a go) Yes, the prices are scary, they always are in shops. The Sieck machines are branded cowboy machines. My first reducers I ordered direct from the Cowboy factory, they shipped them true their agent in Germany, who is Sieck. I did not know of them before that. The ones in stock might be from the same lot who was shipped some years ago, because of my order. The 267-373 is one of my best purchases. I paid 266 Euros for it, it looked brand new. I bought it from a government upholstery school, who had to close down because the lack of students to carry on. It was no signs of it ever had been used; I had to drive 1000 km to pick it up, when I arrived they had two other machines for sale too, that I did not know of. Also at very low prices, but I did not bring more enough money. When called back the next day they was sold. Trox

Thanks a lot Sandy, I could not take the wheel of; I need a take-off tool. I will do that later. However, I was able to take a measurement on the tip of the shaft; 14, 7 mm diameter. But it is maybe 15 mm, it was difficult to measure. The original wheel depth is 62 mm; the shaft length is 63 mm. An ideal wheel would be; 250 mm width and have depth of 37 mm from the center of the groove. A total depth of 62 mm (but that is not necessary, it do not have to cover all of the shaft length. Only have the belt groove on the right place). If it is possible, the belt groove should be the same size as the reducer one or approx the same. It is 9, 5 mm on the top of the V and 4 in the bottom, 10 mm deep. But those pulleys come with standard belt sizes, and my reducer is a “Chinese standard” I do not want you to have any trouble for me, but if you just, can ask for a price. And if they ship it to Norway, I will be very grateful. If I have the approx price, I will compare it to the price of modifying the original one. In advance Thanks Trox

Hi Sandy! This is great, exactly what I am looking for! What`s the diameter on those wheels? If I call the company do you think they would ship me one of those wheels for my class 5? Thanks Trox

Hi Sandy, It does not look good, but it works. The machines comes with to small tables here, they do not use or sell reducers here. They use strong motors instead like the Efka Dc 1600 (220 V single Ph, 600 W servomotor) this is a very good motor sewing one stitch a time on the slowest setting. Surprisingly strong to. On my small Dürkopp Adler 267-373, it sews true two layers of 4, 5 mm hard belt leather on the slowest stitch-by-stitch setting. No need for speed reduction there. Efka don't sell the clutch motors anymore. I have bought my speed reducers from Sieck Germany, they sell the Cowboy model and too a very good price too. I paid about 37 Euro for one. I have done that three times, and all was delivered on time. I see the speed reducers cost the same as a motor or more in the US. Trox

Hi Wiz, Here is the frequency converter, in converts your normal single-phase current in to three three phase. This gives you total control over a 3-phase motor, rpm, torque, start speed and stop speed etc. You can connect a pot meter, a computer or other equipment for in data. This is a 220 V - up to five amps. When I set the speed on the clutch motor to example 7 % of max rpm, I can adjust it to have 100 % torque on that speed. This is the common way to control industrial motors today; it is programmable from a remote location. Servomotors are not used much anymore. They only use step servomotors for high precision applications. They are a bit pricey, but I was lucky to get two free of my brother. I use them for two sewing machines and a skiving machine. Sandy and Universal Ulli from German uses them too, it is a very smart solution. The second pic is Universal Ulli`s converter, it is a bit more tidy done. Trox

The shuttels are the same and is the Industry standard. You can buy a Japan made Hirose shuttle for a third less than the original Adler https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/partlist.aspx?CategoryID=1997 http://shifasewingparts.com/Products/hirose-shuttle.html and a Chinese one would be much cheaper. (And maybe the original Adler one is made in china, who knows) If you look at the websites, you will see that the Juki TSC 441 uses the same as The 205. Cowboy sell shuttles too, ask Toledo Bob or a other Cowboy dealer. I would also like to buy one of those Cowboy shuttles, If you find out who will import them let me know http://www.cowboysew.com/product9.htm Trox

But it is the same type of hand wheel on both your class 4 and 5? The 5 wheel has been modified in all the grooves. If this is the case, I only have to look for someone with a big lathe that will do the job. Thanks Trox

Ha ha, sorry Wiz for bad jokes. Thanks Sandy, could you please post a pic of those ATD pulleys? Or send me a PM. What diameter is those, is it something I could use on my class 5, would they fit? Thanks Trox

Hi sandy, I did the Efka variostop with a phone support from my brother who is an electro engineer. When I looked closer on the system, I saw the control box is a single phase 220 V (connected to only two L connectors and earth). Only the motor is three phase 380 V. (The clutch/ brake is electronic single phase too, connected to the control box). When you open the cable connector box on the back of the motor, you will se the cable for the control box. Disconnect it from it previous place and stretch a cable direct to 220 V wall outlets (the box uses normal power). I used the pre made hole for a sewing lamp. (Motor connected sewing lamps are a hazard and not legal here) Then connect the frequency converter the normal way on the lines; L1 L2 and L3. If it not starts or goes the wrong way, changes the order of the L connectors. Set the motor parameters in the frec. Converter and off you go. The variostop controller is a step controller, when it is on the full 50 hertz; it has about 10 or 12 different speed steps (on the foot control). When you slow it down to about 10 hertz, it has two, maybe three steps of speed left. It is also possible to connect a pot meter on those frequency converters for easy step less speed adjustment. I do not use any pot meter on my converters, I just set the top speed before I start sewing, and uses the foot control in the normal manner. I got one on the variostop (on my Adler 204) and share it with my skiving machine. I got an other one on my Adler 5, who has a 3 phase ¾ Hp Singer clutch motor and a speed reducer. With that setup, I am able to sew one stitch a day if I want to. It works very well. As I said before, the variostop loses its needle position accuracy on very slow speeds (speeds under 20 hertz). I also use a speed reducer on that setup. When you slows it down, the controller tries to compensate to make it the speed right, it maybe counts the rotations. There is a ghost in the machine somewhere, but it works. It is no overheating or danger, I been using it this way for more than two years. It has a very limited space for a speed reducer Thank for the Italian Inquiry Trox The box pic is upside down :brainbleach:

Tanks guys, I have a hard time finding stuff like this in Norway, we do not produce anything but fish and oil over here. I will try the Oslo Company first, if no luck I will try Knut’s place. Knut, I heard you had a visitor from Norway. She told me good things about your workshop. Looking good and practical, she said. But she did not buy your machine? Trox

Hi Sandy, I too have been searching for the same thing. I have heard rumors about a new Italian inexpensive DC position drive. I have been searching the web for it with no luck. The Italians make very fine leather machines, and is world leaders on leather factory and tannery machines. However, it is not the same story about their use of internet; most of their websites are in Italian. And my Italian is a No Go. I bought a 220 V - 600 W brushless digital servomotor from Cobra Steve, 145 $. With shipping too Norway it was less than 200 $ totally. It is very light (about 5 Kg) and strong. It has a adjustable top speed from 100 to 4000 rpm. The slowest speed setting is from zero to 100 rpm. But they are very direct on the sewing pedal, is difficult to sew slower than 100 rpm. All the Chinese servomotors are direct like that, but few are as slow and strong as this. Most will not sew slower than 200 rpm. I have heard good things about the gear reduction motor from Toledo Bob, 110 V- 500 W. But not available in 220 V. But the best buy is the EPS motor from Cobra Steve, 350$. Brushless digital servo with needle position and synchronizer. It is listed as a 110 V - 500 W, But the 220 is a special order (like my was), and then you will get the new 600 W one. All those Chinese servomotors are best used with a speed reducer; they are strong but will not sew slow enough for a big stitcher. I use mine on a upholstery machine, no need for a reducer on that. I do not think you will find a Chinese servomotor that compares to the Efka DC motors. I have a Efka DC 1600 (needle position) system on my Dürkopp Adler 267-373, this is the best motor system I ever tried. No need for a speed reducer on this on, very strong and accurate. All above motor are single phase. On my 3 phase motors, I too use frequency converters for speed, torque control and converting to single phase. I also use one on a machine with Efka 3 phase variostop needle position motor. I have to use different power supply on the Control box; it needs 220V 50 Hz all the time. The frequency converter only applies to the motor. It works well, but the accuracy of the needle position is not that good on very slow speeds. There are companies in England that sells Chinese machines, like Highlead. We may have to ask some of our English members about this. Please inform me if you find something before I do. Trox

Hi Sandy, Thanks for the pic, what is the measurement of the groove? You cannot machine too much of the hand wheel, it is not that thick. I do not want to weaken it, I want to make a small groove, but the groove for the speed reducer is for a 9 mm belt. It has to be the same as that. A other solution is to buy a new pulley http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26086&st=0&p=164598&hl=+tractor%20+supply%20+pulley&fromsearch=1entry164598 Or buy a Cowboy mega flywheel http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html and make it fit the class 5. I do not want to use a tractor pulley and damage my exiting hand wheel, But use a 205 /204 wheel or a mega wheel would be the best thing. The mega wheel have larger diameter and will add torque in addition to having the right groove. So you bought the Frobana machine to, Is It good for something else than shoes? I did not know it had the same shuttle, I know nothing about that machine. But I guess it because that Adler 5 / Sing. 45K shuttle was the industry standard in that time. Just as the big shuttle used in Adler 205 and Juki 441 is now. About the Adler class 20, who is the same as Singer class 7 was used for the biggest jobs in canvas. Tents , awnings and parachutes. Big industrial buffing wheels etc. This one has a small hub, the bigger ones have 40 mm lift. Some of the 7 class had alternating pressers like the 7-33, and was used by saddlers for harness work. Some was modified as Sewmun (Toledo Bob) told us. http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/download-text-attachments/hist_kl.pdf and http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/7class.htm By the way, I did a Google search on Toledo Bob to find his web site. Just for fun, I wrote “Toledo Bob” instead of Toledo industrial sewing machine. And I found “Toledo Bob and the rusty Zipper blues band“, maybe Wizcraft and Sewmun have started an industrial blues band, Ha Ha. I know that Wizcraft has played in a Blues band and he always refer to Bob Kowar as “Toledo Bob” Trox