nobearsyet

This sucks, I was gtting into the video link from Cheney's website, got to part 3 and got error messages for the rest of it. But his video on how to make spurs was quite informative

My stamp is simply my first and last initial angled so that they touch and look kinda like an inverted V It's also a registered cattle brand

Do you have anything along the saddle skirt wit hbrand marks? (you know, the stuff nobody wants but me) I am wanting to make a new wallet, but am thinking a brand mark as long as it's not burned through could look cool so long as it's thick leather as I'm not going t otool it much.

Quite possibly, I'll let you know how many when it all gets here.

I beleive Bowden saddle trees sells a set of patterns, don't hold me too it, but I'm pretty sure they do.

4 Maybe, I just bought a used lot of tools from a saddler that is going out of business and was told there are several Ruby blades and several Cermaic blades in the lot and most of them need sharpening.

thanks for the inforamtion Y'all, I think (and tried it on another project) that a pair of calipers with the litttle loc kscrew clamped down at the distance I want from the edge works well, is there a downside to trying to do this this way?

I will have t olook into both at more depth. I would be willing to try a tree as Ido have a limited amount of woodworking knowledge, and I'm sure it could cost a great deal without sacrificing quality, or fit to my horses.

Settles that then doesn't it. The thought still roams about in my head as to figure out a saddle that doesn't take a pad as it seems to me there would be a certain convenience factor to it.

At the risk of running this thread off on a small tangent I have wondered on numerous occassions if you had a good fitting saddle (read that as a custom tree fitted to your horse) and made the wool lining slightly bigger than the skirts so it hangs out all the way aroung the skirt if you really even need a pad at all. I haven't tried it but I can't see where you 'd end up with any big bloody sores from a small skirt and about 1" or s oof sheepskin sticking out all the way around. Anyone else care to chime in on this one?

Thank Y'all, I am dtill kind of undecided as to whether I would like to build an Aussie or a Wade type roper, as this is going to be my first saddle, and second leather project, ever. I appreciate the assistance, really I do as there seems to be noone around that has any interest in this kind of stuff, and any little tips and tricks you guys might be able to share will also be greatly appreciated.

Did you guys build that yourself or did you buy it from somebody? Can that swivel/tilt thingy ma bob be obtained easily?

I see, sort of, thanks for the info. With that being said, any suggestions as far as a good tree to build a very bare bones western saddle that would be satisfactory for roping, cutting, trail riding, and general ranch use, at least as far as style, weight, positioning, etc. goes? I was considering one of the Wade type trees on the market, but haven't decided on a maker.

Thanks, I just shot him an e-mail. Have you, or anyone else for that matter, ever done an Aussie? If so how different is it from doing any other saddle?

I am having a really hard time trying to find someone that makes trees for an Australian Stock Saddle. I have used them extensively and thin kmy first saddle project is going to be an Aussie, but I can't find the tree anywhere, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have bee nas of late if it wouldn't be doable to make one out of one of those saddle racks you get at places like Big D's and cover the top with carpet (one solid sheet, not wrapping it around the little metal bars) and putting a 2x4 at the bottom to handle all of the pull down stuff, of course one would have to make straps to do the pull down stuff, but then again, I honestly don't know a whole heck of a lot about this stuff. Will someone correct me if I'm wrong?

That is a good looking saddle. Now for my dumb newbie question, aren't all trees the same, I mean other than dimensions, and the way the rider is positioned?

Wow, that was really informative, I will be refering back to that one a lot

Maybe Montana Silversmiths?

The man who used to do all of the leather I used when I was rodeoing for a living put them on my chap buckles, spur straps, cinches, stirrup leathers on my bronc saddles, and the nice straps on the bull riding glove he made for me, and said he did it in the varous places all for different reasons. The spur straps, chap buckles, gloves, and cinches he said it was so they could be pulled tighter easier, on everywhere else he put them he said he did it so the stuff didn't wear out quite so fast as the little roller thingy reduces friction, hope tha thelps.

Thanks Y'all. I will take note of the problems people have had with Tandy's tools, and probably buy the one from hidecrafter, Next stupid question, how d oyou keep the pattern running parallel to the edge?

My ex-girlfriend had one of those trucks, the interior looked like chap leather, that somebody "distressed" (to quote the dealer) to make it more comfortable.

Ok, thanks for the info. how do you do the corners as it seems as they won't be right at the end of a particular stamp and I am going to need to change direction.

I too would like to know how one goes about making a rope bag. I am very new to this and tack is what my primary focus is on due to the fact that the man that made most of mine is now deceased and I can't find anybody to do the stuff I like, so I am figuring I am going to have to just buckle down (no pun intended) and learn to do it myself.

I will keep this in mind, a saddle may be soon on the project list, it should make a nice second project.