Spinner

Here's another good source for them. I have used this company a number of times. They only deal in the magnets and have some really cool shapes and can even custom make them if needed. http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/

That's a pretty cool effect! Makes it look like the bib is backlit by the paint job! NICE!

I'll just make things easy for folks so we can move this off the forum; doesn't seem to belong in the "show Off" area anymore. http://tmcleather.weebly.com/

I sent out PMs and emails to those interested. Unfortunately I ran out of PMs allowed for the day, so if you didn't get a message I'll send the info tomorrow or you can start a conversation with me earlier. I have the materials for the first batch with the next batch materials getting here Monday or Tuesday so I should be able to start shipping as early as Wednesday. Thanks, Chris

Actually, many of the new Dremels have a variable speed control knob. I found that using these at around the #5 mark (half speed) works pretty nicely. Harbor Frieght and many of the other bulk tool stores have knock off brands for half the price that work equally well for this sort of thing. The other trick I found is to rub a thin coat of wax on the edge before burnishing so it slicks without burning.

+1 to this. letting the acrylic dry between coats should improve your coverage and save some paint. Once dry, acrylic becomes hard and non-pourous and will build up. When it is wet, and you're adding to it's moisture content by adding thinned acrylic to it it will simply soak in deeper and not achieve that 'top coat' you're looking for. Another option would be switching to a non-opaque airbrush paint. There are many that are made for textiles and are ready to shoot from the gun allowing you to apply thicker coats.

Hey Shoemaker, I already have some slated to go to Sweden and Puerto Rico so the UK is no problem. I'll add you to the list. Chris Hey Panther, Now I remember, I have seen the big one on LW before I believe. Thanks for the photos. I had thought about getting one of those but then thought later I wanted something less bulky for the dremel since it's at my desk and the drills, etc. are outside in the shop.

Hey Richard - I got your PM so you are already on the list...we're good to go Ghostrider - not a problem, I'll add ya Big O - I'll see what I can do about those sizes. Shouldn't be an issue. Panther - Will do. I'd be interested in seeing the pictures. Bevan - You're cracking me up. I'll add ya to the list and let you know on the postage. If you can send me a message with your city/state/postal code info I can get an estimate for you when I'm at the post office next week. I haven't even received the first shipment of bits and I already need to order more...you folks are turning this into a job! LOL

Good deal Shaky, glad someone found some use for them. =) Here's the project I mentioned making it for:

I was thinking about the wood last night and decided to do an actual test of the various woods I mentioned against each other. Turns out Cocobolo does indeed work the best with Tulipwood and Lignum Vitae close behind. African Blackwood and Rock Hard Maple follow those. As I had anticipated, due to the higher oil content and dense grain pattern of the cocobolo it tended to heat up more evenly and absorb less of the wax applied to the edge. Tulipwood also had consistent results but appears to burnish as fast as the leather does. This may be in part perception due to the much lighter grain colors. L.V. worked nicely, but it's nature is to be a very heavy wood (hence it's nickname Ironwood) and could wear on the handpiece bearing faster. Blackwood and RH Maple also worked nicely but don't tend to have as much natural oils as cocobolo so they burnished (blackened) much more dramatically than the others. I also found they had a tendency to build up a soot like coating that would occasionally transfer to the leather...not a good thing. Long story short, as expected cocobolo is the best choice. I'll be making these from cocobolo unless someone specifically wants tulipwood for the similar performance with added pretty colors. The dremel bits should be here today or tomorrow. More info to come. If you responded to this thread already or via PM/email I now have an official list and will get in touch. Chris

From their website: I have been told by others that orders by phone and applications by fax are much more reliable than the web for some reason.

I'm not far away, over on the NE edge of L.A. where it meets Eagle Rock.

That's too funny Eric. I've never seen the show but that's a cool logo. Where in L.A. are you?

Thanks Sam, Casey and Cem, sounds like this will work!

Thanks Roo, I'll check those out. In the meantime I have some coming from SLC to mess around with.

Ugh...good luck with those.

Good call, my wife and I both agree that looks better. Viola!

Hey Folks, I'm trying to design an official logo for my soon to be official business and was looking to see what folks thought. Keep in mind, I'm trying to keep it simple so it will translate easily between a mark, address labels, business cards, etc. My lil sis in law took a minute to figure out what it was supposed to represent. Let's see if it was just her or the design. Thanks, Chris

LOL...you crack me up

SC and Josh, I can do that. I'll let you know when I'm set to ship. Jazznow, no problem. Let me know if you have issues finding any locally. Stores like Rockler, Woodcraft,, etc will have them in short (6") lengths too if yuo have one nearby.

Nice Job Roo, I like the idea of the airbrushed bronze to blend it in more and the layered "frame" effect. Should look pretty nice on the HD.

Thanks for the info folks, at least now I have some idea of what questions to ask the suppliers. This lace will be going on my most requested items, motorcycle side covers and tank bibs. I don't have a lace cutter yet but am working on it (want to get a good one) and I'll need to read up more on the process of cutting, stretching and beveling my own lace....likely need to buy all those tools for that as well. Currently I use superior lace and pre-stretch it as I pull pretty good on the side covers when lacing the top/side seams. It comes out decent enough but I've read that to be in the "next level" group of quality, Roo is the way to go. Just need to find a place that can supply ready to work with roo lace until I figure out the making my own process. What good tools are recommended for the cutting/beveling/making of lace from a hide?

LOL...I've done that before myself. Best way to go about it is to edit the original message. Once in there, delete the photo references and then reinsert the photos from their new location. It will take a few minutes to complete but should work fine going forward. Chris

Yeah, I'm in the same boat. My main leather area is a small desk in the dining room. I have a 10x10 shop outside but it houses all the large power tools and the dust that comes from them!

That would be very helpful! Just trying to figure out how best to spend my supply dollars. i don't mind waiting a few extra days to have something shipped if the price is that much better. The local store has it for $70 a spool yet the highest anywhere else online is about $50. If I can save $20-30 for the same or better quality by simply waiting on the post man I will.