Spinner

Anyone know where I can find D-rings that have tabs? I'm hoping for something with a 3/8" or 1/2" hole. Here's a pic of what I'm trying to find: Any help would be appreciated! Chris

Here's my latest tank bib, made for a customer that picked up a set of my custom side covers a few weeks ago. He wanted the tooling to match the pin striping he has on his bike along with the bike's name. He also asked that the name be colored to match the ruby red bike paint color. One stipulation though, he didn't want the tooling to be overwhelming so he requested no antiquing. The lacing up the side is a double loop combined with a running stitch through the same holes. The bottom of the pocket is left unstitched so he can run wires for his phone charger and iPod shuffle.

Cheryl, Check out Barry King & Robert Beard bevelers, I have 4 of each of them in various sizes (different types from each maker) and love working with them. I did just get a Facebook invite for Clay's tools last night though. I haven't used them but they look good and Clay knows his stuff. Chris

I just started using the 'locking technique" on my backstitches and once yuo get the feel for it, it works really well. On projects that I can get to the back of the stitch run, I'll pull my ends through (basically only doing a 1/2 stitch on the last one) and burn/glue them there so they don't show at all. on pieces where I can't do that, like belts, etc. I use flexible CA glue on a needle like Noah as I can control where it goes better. Nothing sucks more than to plan a small dot and oversqueezing the tube. I like flexible CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue better than Super Glue or regular CA because it doesn't end up as brittle and will flex with the piece a bit more. The difference between the two is flexible CA has a rubber compound added to it that allows it to be a bit more resilient and doesn't end up becoming as brittle as super glue over time. Cost about the same and is available at most woodworking stores like Rockler & Highland.

I've had that happen to me a time or two Joe. Take a break to let your mind reboot. One thing I do when that happens is to take a full day away from leatherwork and then the next day spend an hour or two going through some of the beginner & intermediate books just to make myself refresh on whatever it is I'm having issues with. Sometimes we get into such a concentrated mindset with the techniques that take the longest (tooling, braiding, lacing, etc) that we can forget that little step on what should be the easy stuff like casing and swivel knife cuts and it throws things off. Chris

Thanks Cheryl. I was one of those Bob Ross moments, "a happy accident" that led to me thinking more about lacing other than just put the lace through the hole like the book says. I plan to play with the idea more and see what else I can come up with.

Welcome from So. Cal. I attended many a party at UC Davis...even though I wasn't a student or even live close...ah the good ol' days. Have fun on the site and share your work...best way to learn is to have the knowledgable folks here give their experienced feedback. Check out the free tutorials at Paul Burnett's site as well...some awesome info there: http://paintingcow.com/content/index.php/publications/free_lesson_sign_up/ Chris

Yep, that's the stuff I was thinking of...couldn't remember where I had seen it.

For the padding, I am guessing either very thin neoprene foam or quilter's batting. Not quite sure on the construction without seeing the underside...

Hey Marty, I would check out Jacquard Textile Colors. It comes in small bottles and is blendable & mixable. Straight from the bottle it acts like acrilyc paint but if mixed with water or Jacquard extender is more like water-color and can be applied in layers for more solid coloring. It can also be used in an airbrush when thinned. I have used them on leather before (including as a base coat on the tank bib I recently posted) with good success. I would think that if you hit the leather with Oxalic acid to lighten it first and then sprayed several thinned coats of the color you'd get what you're looking for. Hard to tell exactly what color that is, but it looks like a Yellow Ochre base with White blended in to create the 'sand tan' color. http://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-textile-colors/ Chris

working on a tank bib order last night, the whole thing is tooled, dyed, holes punched, etc and I start doing the lacing for the edges. Client wanted the edges braided but something small and not too distracting. Plan was for the mexican round braid with 3/32" lace using the 'over only' technique but alas, something was amiss. I didn't plan for the extra thickness of the leather in my calculations vs. using the same technique on the side covers I do. 3 oz. of thickness will definitely skew things! So, I experimented with a few different looks and found one that I, the client and my most honest critic (my wife) all liked...double loop lacing with a running stitch through the same holes: The picture is a tad fuzzy but you get the idea. Just thought I would share in case someone else runs into the same problem...experiment!

Hey Noah, sent you a PM before I saw this post. Sorry but please disregard, unfortunately like Troy I am not set up for specific holsters yet. Chris

Hey Fredo, something else to try...try beveling in the opposite direction than you usually do. It not only helps to learn how to tool both directions, but you may also find your tooling is cleaner going 'backwards'. I found out lately by doing this that my beveling is cleaner when I go left to right instead of right to left even though the latter feels more natural. Other than that, all of the above suggestions should make a difference.

I'd start with alcohol to see if it removes the finish first. If that doesn't work then try the acetone after the alcohol dries out. Acetone is slightly more harsh on natural materials and will pull more of the color out than alcohol will.

That is awesome Ed. Great Leather, Wood AND Metal work. First question is, do you offer that modeling tool for sale, at least the spoon section - with or without handle...?

I agree. It's small details like this that set an item apart from the rest. Nice work.

Very nice looking knife. Congrats on the new blade. Going to go check out his wares now. Chris

http://www.hardwareelf.com/elf/latchesandlocks.jsp

Good question Vencenzo. For my practice pieces I've been using the Tandy Artificial sinew in various colors because it comes in smaller inexpensive spools. I works nicely but tends to fray if using pieces longer than 4 ft at a time. I'm going to give the linen thread a try next time I have to buy for an actual project.

Now that's service! I'll have to hit ya up the next time I head out to run the twisties around Big Bear...a guy can only run Mulholland Hwy and Angeles Crest so many times before some new scenery is in order. Chris

Welcome to the forum Cal...I'm jealous on the cheap find. Enjoy! Looks like I'm about an hour west of you Steve, I'm a stone's throw from Dodger Stadium. Maybe one of these days when I'm looking for a long freeway ride I'll head out that direction to check out the machines I may be after next year. Are you open on Saturdays?

Welcome to the forum and to leatherworking Fredo. Not a bad start from the looks of it, keep it coming. Chris