JoelR

Got a request for a 2.5" K-frame, specifically a S&W model 66 so it has the underlug which blue guns do not. I can get access to a 4" model, but have seen a number of D-frame prop guns that look very much like the k-frame S&W. So, anyone have two to compare and offer differences and impressions if molded holsters would be interchangeable?

I believe I have seen them as a stage prop. Gonna run you a little more than a blue gun through. One was used in Mission Impossible, so there may be a source for them. Don't mix them up with the 83 through. Different trigger guard.

Never had a problem with molting, but recently I have been having an issue with it rubbing off when airbrushed on. I'm starting to think that it hits the leather too dry and does not "soak" in when airbrushed. Thinking of switching to katsass's Mop-n-glow mix or the 1:1:1 mix of beeswax, neetsfoot, and parafin wax. May try the leather sheen as dipping seems a heck of a lot easier, faster and more consistant than brushing or spraying and BigRiverLeather has always had a nice finish look to his holsters. Too many options and not enough time to try them all...

+1 to the lefty line. Worked up a mock-up of a new design for a regular customer and fellow club member's Highpower and didn't realize that I had started sewing from the wrong side until it was too late. So, I rolled with the punches and turned it into a lefty. Showed him the mock-up and apologized that he had to envision it as a right-handed holster. He liked the design and asked what I would be doing with the mockup. I said that since it was fully functional, I would finish it up and put it on ebay as a mockup. He said he'd take it for his wife. Another member came over and took a look. Member happened to be a lefty, and asked if he could buy it for himself as he had a Highpower he never got around to getting a custom holster made for. Guess I'll have to put that design into my template library.

For IWB I only use stainless t-nuts and either brass or stainless screws. Unlike the others I use #8 screws and reform the heads. I also trim down the spikes and place the nut between the layers of leather. I think it gives a more finished appearance. Jmho.

+1 for W&C. Great bang for your buck. Utility sides look better tan some 'C' grade sides. Flesh was a little rough on the last one I got so I may start asking them to trim it to 8oz and paste the backs. I think I remember someone mentioning that they will do a special treatment specifically for molding work if you ask them to.

Started with spirit based dyes, and once I tried oil, I never looked back. Oil stays wetter longer and seems to soak in better. As pointed out above, not as much surface dye to rub off. USMC black acts as a water resist so trying to case after dying was more difficult than it needed to be. Oils also seems to "layer" better. All spirit based browns always came out about the same color for me...

Neat idea Anne. Essentially a wedge when going backwards. Back to the op topic: The reason it is not a simple retrofit is the thread fed by the needle must be fully wrapped around the bobbin. This would require a much longer travel for the takeup bar (or whatever the arm is called that pulls the needle thread tight after the bulk of it is pulled around the bobbin) to account for all the extra thread that would have to be fed to get around a full spool. The thread fed by the needle must move from one side of the bobbin thread to the other and the only way to get there is to make the trip around the bobbin. A chain-stitch machine grabs the thread from the needle and holds onto it as the needle makes its up-stroke. During the next down-stroke the loop that is being held onto is positioned so that the needle falls within the loop and the next loop is grabbed from the needle before it makes its up-stroke creating a series of interlocking loops. This is a common way of stroring extension cords that are too short to need a spool but too long to have just lay around.

Unfortunately, Seigles is no longer in business. I am currently looking for a new supplier for belt work myself. The hides Springfield sent me (months ago to put everything in perspective) were too short and contained some rawhide. So, if anyone has a supplier of A grade horse in belt length cuts, give a shout.

Those who work with saltwater shark, do you prep the flesh side of the leather before gluing it up. Sand down the loose fibers and such? I've onlyworked with freshwater shark in the past which is too thin and fiberouse to do anything but trimming with scissors.

You are correct. I am referring to the CITES tags and have updated by original post as such. Thanks. Did not find any info regarding leather on the USWFS site (other than how to propery choose leather working gloves) and my state site was lacking as well (PA). Most info points to the CITES tags and documents for import/export so maybe I am misunderstanding the significance of the tags with regards to my use of the leather.

So, I have in my posession two small hornbacks looking for a good use and some really cool elephant scrap from Springfield. The hornbacks have CITES tags and there was a single tag in the scrap bag attached to a piece of leather. So, the questions are these: 1) What do I do with the tags once the leather is used? 2) How does the tag in the bag of scrap (obviously from many differnt hides) relate to the bag? The scenario I see playing out is such: Place item on website or ebay for sale. Someone asks for the CITES info to authenticate the leather and ensure it was taken properly. For the hornbacks - not an issue. One tag for each full skin. For the elephant, well.... Of course, I may be overthinking and being pessimistic/paranoid as usual. (edited to properly identify the tags as CITES tags as pointed out by Wolfsax - thanks)

Heck, for the convinience of not having to taper my threads any more, I may pick up a bundle or two of their poly hand sewing threads.

+1 to the 3500/4500 crowd. Received my 3500 last Monday and had it setup and stitching that evening (after coming home from my real job). Only issue I had with it was trying to unload a 310 lb pallet from the back of my pickup by myself. For those who have not worked with these before (I was one of them) the stand alone is 140 lb so even breaking the pallet apart leaves you with some large heavy items to deal with. Highly recommend the flat table attachment.

Thanks Art.

I'm still on the lookout for a machine in my ultra-cheap price range. Yeah, I know, but I only do a few hundred a year in work so the proper priced machine would take me years to just make up the money. So, looking at a Consew SK-6F. Anyone have any info on this machine? Primary use would be gun-weight belts. Thanks

Sure. I dye the edge first. Once dry, apply tap water to the edge, allow to set for a few minutes and then rub with a burnishing stick (from Tandy).

I seem to be putting much more time into my edges than I think I should be. I burnished the edges on a belt last night. When I was done, the edges had a nice shine to them and were smooth. However, this morning, after the leather had fully dried, the edges have lost their luster and feel scaley. I do not believe I am over wetting the edges, but I assume there is something associated with the final drying that is causing the problem. Anyone have any thoughts or insight?

Can anyone comment positivly or negativly if this is sutable for holster and belt leather sewing?

Thanks.

I do not do anything that requires an aged look - yet (my other hobby, Halloween, has me looking into Steampunk as it is quickly becoming a popular sub-gener for Halloween displays). My observations are mearly from my clumsyness...

Try some experiments with Fiebings Oil dyes and water. I have found that if you hit the article dyed, and not quite fully dry, with streaks/splotches of water you can achive some cool rustic effects. Sorry, I don't have any pictures as I usually got the results when I did not want them...

For me, it depends on the dye being used. USMC Black acts as a water resist once dry, so with it, I mold first then dye. Fiebings Professional Oil dyes tend not to resist water, but can darken once exposed to water (and you can create some cool aged effects with water and not-so-dry oil based dyes) so I go a shade-or-two lighter with them. For me, the oil based dyes absorb better than the spirit so I only buy oil at this point.

+1 to the HF Professional. On sale for $13 - you can't go wrong. Never have had a problem with mine other than forgetting to clean it. Get one of their spray gun brush sets while you're at it in case you need to scrub out the orifices.

If you guys don't mind, who are your insureres? I attempted to get liability insurance through my insurrer (USAA - who does our home, car and my wifes Personal Liability Insurance for her RN license) and was told they have nothing that would match my needs and had no recommendations on where to look.