Wizcrafts

I have my doubts. The 8300N is a very high speed tailoring machine. It uses thin thread, has weak tension springs suited to cotton or polyester garment thread, has a fine tooth 4 row feed dog, and prefers to be run at about 91 stitches per second - to distribute the oil from the sump pump to the ends of the wicks. It will sew about 1/4 inch of cloth, using system DBx1 needles, ending at number 18. The thread handling limit would be no more than B69. Here are the specs I do believe that such a machine "can" sew thin leather, up to about 6 to 8 ounces, as long as it is soft temper, like garment or chap leather. Controlling it would require a servo motor with a pulley smaller than 2 inches. The Family Sew 550s is such a motor and Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines offers them with custom bored small pulleys to slow them down and torque them up for leather sewing. The machine must be run at high speed to distribute the oil. This can be done while winding bobbins, as well as before you start to sew. Just remove the top thread from the take-up lever, raise the presser foot and floor it.

I don not believe that the Tacsew T622 is anything more than a high speed straight stitch (garment) sewing machine. If it has one static presser foot bar in addition to the needle bar, and the needle only moves up and down, it is a straight stitch machine. A walking foot machine has three bars coming down.

A walking foot machine has two interlinked bars containing presser and vibrating feet. The inside foot extends under the needle bar and moves forward and backward and up and down with the needle, in sync with the feed dog. The outer foot moves up and down, securing the work as the feed dog and needle move forward for the next stitch. You either have or don't have a walking foot machine. Domestic (home) sewing machines have screw on attachments that are sometimes called walking foot attachments. They are actually just follow feet to keep layers of cloth from separating under the foot. The feet do not help transport the material and do less than nothing on leather.

A proper sewing operation has more that one machine. I recommend a flat bed upholstery grade walking foot machine, like the Consew 206RB-5, for medium thickness material and thread (up to 3/8" with #138 thread). Then add a heavy harness stitcher for items exceeding 3/8 inch thickness, or requiring thicker thread (#207 - #415) and finally, a flat bed tailoring machine (e.g.; Singer 31-15, 96k40) if you need to sew thin cloth garments or satin linings together. Each type of machine covers a specific range of work for which it is best suited This is a good basic starting setup. Add other special purpose machines as the need arises.

That #5 is a good machine for jobs where you don't see the bottom layer. This includes saddles, seats and webbing. The same machine is available with the designation of Cowboy CB2500 (with or without reverse and roller foot), the Techsew 3650, various brands of the so-called GA5-1, as well as the ancient Singer 45k models, upon which these machines are based. These machines sew up to about 7/16 to 1/2 inch of leather or webbing, with thread sizes 138 through 346, using system 328 needle sizes 23 through 27.

Choose the largest thread that allows you to hide the knots between the layers. It will fall between #277 and 346 for two layers of this ballistic nylon. Actually, 346 is pushing it a bit. Your machine has to be perfectly adjusted to consistently place the knots between the layers. You can calculate the strength per stitch by consulting this needle and thread chart. I suspect that using #277 thread, rated at 44 pounds tensile strength, will do the trick. Just space out the stitches to at least 5 per inch, or about 3/16" spacing on outer edges with less stress, and 4 per inch when sewing across hardware and buckles, or high stress areas. This will avoid weakening those seams due to the proximity of the holes. FYI: Black bonded thread is always stiffer than lighter colors. White thread is typically the softest. Softer thread forms and positions the lockstitch knots more easily and much tighter for a given tension combination. This is why many professional saddlers and holster shops use barbed needle and awl machines and run soft but thick linen thread though a liquid wax pot. Once the wax dries those stitches aren't going anywhere, even if one breaks. Just look at a quality leather shoe or boot sole that is sewn with 6 to 8 cord waxed linen thread if you want proof. Unfortunately, modern closed eye needle machines cannot effectively use waxed linen thread.

What causes skipped stitches? Skipped stitches can be caused by any or a combination of the following defects: Early or late arrival of the hook, above the eye of the ascending needle. Excessive clearance between the gears that drive the shuttle and hook. Insufficient foot pressure that allows the leather to lift with the needle. A burr on the tip of the needle. The needle is too large for the thread. The oversize hole causes a loss of back tension on the loop, causing it to dissolve prematurely. Too much travel and/or tension on the check spring, causing the loop to dissolve prematurely. Overly twisty thread that causes the loop to twist away from the hook. A burr, or other defect at the tip of the hook. Intermittently binding top thread. Intermittently binding bobbin thread.

The bottom line is that the "Cobra" branded sewing machines are imported and distributed by Leather Machine Company, in California. They have banners that appear in the rotation on top of the pages on all our forums. You can buy direct from them, which means any problems will be handled directly by the people responsible for importing and setting up your machine. You can also buy from authorized dealers who then become responsible for all servicing and support. If you are contemplating purchasing the machine from an authorized dealer, contact them in advance and ask about their support policy on that machine, its motor, parts and accessories. The owner of the Cobra brand name, as well as Leather Machine Company, is Steve Tayrien. He is a member here, going by the handle Cobra Steve

Whomever you buy a new sewing machine from, make sure they can both service the machine if necessary and give you personal technical assistance when operational problems arise. Shipping is a two way proposition if the machine needs to be shipped back to the seller for repairs.

The Singer 111w103 is a compound feed walking foot machine, one generation before the model 111w155.. It doesn't have either reverse or the shuttle jam protection clutch. As long as you hold back the starting threads (top and bottom) and never let the top thread jump out of the top tension disks, and never let the bobbin thread bind in the case, it will do a fine job sewing Naugahyde, banners, garments, webbing and leather, up to about 5/16 of an inch, with up to #138 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. It uses the standard system 135x16 (leather point) and 135x17 (round point) walking foot needles. Most jobs sewn on these machines are sewn with #69, 92 and 138 thread, using #18, 20 and 23 needles, respectively. The machine is manually oiled and is good for speeds up to about 2000 stitches per minute, or down to one per second.

It could be the thread having too much coil action off the spool. The twists and turns from twisty thread cause tension changes and possibly even skipped stitches. This is especially likely if the thread loop twists away from the hook on the upstroke. Sometimes it helps to wind the top thread once around the top post in the opposite direction to the natural twist of the thread.

There is an image on the lower left of the CB4500 page with a photo copy of their ad from Shop Talk magazine. Click on it to see a larger readable view. Turn off your ad blocker if you don't see it. Sometimes, just refreshing the page will get it to reload and display.

Joe; You asked about "stitch by stitch sewing" I can do that with any motor I have, including clutch motors. You have to treat the foot pedal like you are driving a Beetle or Fiat, or some other small clutch operated car. You slowly move the toe down until you feel the motor start to engage. There is an adjustment bolt on the right end of these motors that lets you adjust the free play before the clutch engages. All clutch motors accept a standard inside diameter (usually 20mm) type 3L, v-belt pulley. Type 3L v-belts are 3/8 inch, or 10mm across the top and are the standard for the industrial sewing machine industry. These pulleys are made in outside diameters ranging from about 40mm, up. I have found that I can feather one with a 70mm pulley as well as one with a 50mm, down to 1 stitch per second. The difference is in the top end. The 70mm lets you sew about 50% faster with the pedal down. If you buy a servo motor after the machine, it may need some special linkages or changes to where the linkage bracket is connected to the floor pedal, to line it up under the control arm. Most servo motors have the control arm facing forward, towards the operator. All clutch motors have the leever under the motor, facing sideways and connecting on the left end, via a ball joint, straight down to the pedal.

Joe; I would go with the Juki and learn to feather the clutch first. If you have trouble controlling it, change the motor pulley to one that is 50mm or 70mm in diameter. This will slow down the machine at all times and may not let you get long runs done as quickly as normal upholstery machines. If you charge by the hour, faster is better (in upholstery). The Juki is capable of sewing quite fast, when needed. If you find you have a hard time controlling the slower speeds on the clutch motor, look into getting a servo motor. Try to find one with your available voltage and connection, which is rated at 1/2 horse power or better and has a rotary knob to limit the top speed. I have three motors like that, two of which are the Family Sew model FS-550s. I don't know if that motor is available in 220 volts or not, but others probably are. It is even possible that the same company ships a different brand name of the same motor to European customers. The advantage of this type of motor is that you can just twist the knob to slow it down to about 2 stitches per second flat out. Twist the other way and it will drive the walking foot machine as fast as it can go. You get slow speed accuracy, plus high speed money making capabilities, all in one motor.

Thank you Uwe for that research.

I have a little side business refurbishing and selling old iron Singer sewing machines. The oldest one in the rack right now is a model 27, from 1902. I cleaned, oiled and lubed it, then adjusted the clearance of the bullet shuttle. That 114 year old machine sews 2 layers of 4-5 ounce leather, denim jeans and just about anything I can fit under the foot, with #69 bonded nylon thread. The Sphinx decals are in good condition. It amazes me that nobody has expressed the slightest interest in buying the machine. Quite frankly, I don't care. I know I can cart it into my shop (15 feet away) and sew with it in one minute or less. It does one thing and does it well. It sews tight, straight stitches, up to 5 to the inch. One hundred fourteen years and still going strong. It thrives on oil, clear grease and fair treatment. With more of the same, I expect that it will be capable of continuing on its timeless journey for another hundred years. Treat your Cowboy machine with the same respect and it will outlive you.

On Tuesday, Jan 19, I used my Cowboy CB4500 to sew two unusual jobs for this type of machine. The first one was sewing new Santa Claus type uppers into a leather shoe. The second was sewing a new leather liner into a felt Cowboy hat I am refurbishing for a customer. I used #138 Cowboy brand bonded nylon thread, with a Schmetz #23 leather point needle. In the first case, the length of the arm and positive triple feed made the job much more efficient than if I'd done it on a patcher. In the second case, there is enough clearance on the right inside of the head to clear a 4 inch hat brim. Using a left toe foot I was able to sew the liner into the hat directly over the original stitch line, which is where the crown bends into the brim. My drop down edge guide was adjusted to clear the folded out lamb skin liner and still keep the brim from moving too much as I rotated the hat. Normally, hats are sewn on roller foot post machines. But, I don't have a post machine at this time. That needs to be remedied real soon.

There's a third and fourth possibility. 3: The thread is too well bonded onto the spool in some places but not others. As you sew the tension changes as the thread leaves the spool. 4: There is a starting thread stub sticking out of the bobbin that interferes with the smooth flow of thread off the bobbin.

That machine is a non-feeding bag closer, or freehand pattern stitcher/tacker.

I forgot to address the term "cobbler" machine. Cobblers, or shoe repair persons, fix or build shoes. One of the machines that are found in shoe repair shops is a boot patcher. It is a free arm machine with a special top feed foot that can pull the work in any direction. Their very slender arms allow you to sew well into a shoe or boot, before it bottoms out. Despite their impressive appearance, patchers are only meant to sew shoe uppers, or to sew patches onto garments. I use mine to repair handbags, sew over loose or broken threads in shoes and boots, apply embroidered patches to Bikers' vest and jackets, or to sew small objects with thinner thread than my other machines use. Most patchers can only sew up to 1/4 inch of leather. The maximum stitch length of a brand new pristine patcher is usually only 5 stitches per inch, into about 8 ounces of leather. The stitch length diminishes at 1/4 inch. Worn out patchers are known to lose their maximum stitch length to as little as 8 per inch. And again, they work best, last longer and sew the longest distance between bobbin changes using #69 bonded nylon thread.

tag302; It would really be a big help if you told us the brand name and model of the "cobbler" machine you bought. A picture is even better. However, being the fool I am, I will venture a guess and offer some suggestions. I guess you bought some kind of "patcher" machine. If so, since it came with a #18 needle, it is probably made to sew with #69 (T70) bonded nylon thread. This is one of the most common upholstery grade threads sold to both hobbyists and professional sewers alike. Number 69 bonded thread is available in nylon and polyester. It is made of three strands of smaller mono-filament thread that are twisted tightly together and coated with a bonding agent, then wound onto large spools. This triples the strength and gives it a breaking strength of 11 pounds test. This thread is usually sold as cone shaped spools, ranging from 4 ounces to 16 ounces per spool. Since I am guessing about the nature of your machine, I can't assume to know its upper thread handling capability. But, as the owner of two Singer patchers, one with a small bobbin and one with a large bobbin, the largest size thread they handle well and reliably is #92 (T90), which is 15 pounds test. I use either a #19 or #20 leather point needle with #92 thread.

The topic you responded to is from November 2014. The manual was sold on eBay in Germany and is long expired. Your only hope is to post in our MarketPlace Items Wanted ads for the manual. Or, maybe somebody who is currently on the form has a manual they can photocopy and digitize or mail to you. If anybody has an e-manual for a Singer 133k4, please contact new member Raymond Okini.

That machine is a very good garment sewing machine. It can sew very fast, as long as the oil wicks haven't hardened up. You should be able to run it at about 4000 stitches per minute, or 66 per second. It will definitely get the job done is a short time. It uses the standard straight stitch system 16x257 needles. According to the old Consew info page, it is: "Suitable for stitching such products as blouses, shirts, men's, ladies, and children's apparel, lingerie, dresses, sportswear, work uniforms, jackets and coats"

Hmmm. Let's see. I've sewn lots of leather projects that are 8 or 9 mm thick, with multiple layers and gotten great stitches. I'm curious if you are referring to the top, bottom, or both sides? If top, the geometry of the needle has a lot to do with the appearance of the top stitches. Some leather point needles produce a straight line of stitches. Others produce slants to the left or right. Simply changing to a different type of leather point can change that stitch line's appearance or lay. Using a regular round/sharp point needle in leather can have disastrous effects. Too large of a needle make a hole that is too loose to secure the knots inside the layers. Too small and the knots are hard to pull up and will be visible on the bottom. If the correct size and shape of needle is being used, but the knots are visible on the top or bottom, there is a fault either in the top or bottom tension adjustments, the thread itself, the top thread path to the needle, or the way the bobbin is wound. Knots that are consistently on the top indicate that either the needle is much too big, or the overall top tension is much too tight, or that the bobbin thread is not feeding under the bobbin tension spring, or that is under the spring but the tension screw has backed off to zero bobbin tension. If the knots lay on the bottom, either the needle is too small, the top tension is too loose, or the bobbin spring is too tight, or a combination of the above. Knots that move up and down indicate an intermittent change in tension. This can be caused by top thread that was over-dyed, or double dyed and comes off the spool like a coil spring. Try wrapping it around a post on top of the machine in the opposite direction of its natural coil. It can also be caused by foreign material caught inside the tension disks or thread guides, or even a bad needle that is gummed up or nicked. Sometimes, when you finish winding a bobbin and cutting off the starting thread, you may have a thread stub sticking out of the starting hole. That thread stub can drag once per cycle on an anti-backlash spring, or on the inside of the shuttle. Make sure you snip the bobbin thread stubs clean off right at the metal hole it comes out of. Another often overlooked cause of bad knot placement is the check spring. Its job is to maintain tension on the top thread as the take-up lever moves down. It's supposed to hold it taut until the tip of the needle meets the top of the material. The purpose it to prevent the needle from splitting loose top thread as it hits the material. If the throw of the check spring is too long or short, the stitch placement can be affected. If it has too little tension it won't do a good job of following the thread. It it's too tight, the thread may go into the material with too much tension on top. This could cause little puckers on top, or drag the knots higher up that you expect. Finally, machines that can't produce a decent and consistent stitch and knot placement may be operating beyond their current capabilities. It could be a misadjustment, wear in the take-up or bobbin area, or the thread is too tough or wide to be tensioned smoothly. So, what size needle and thread have you or your dealers tried to use that failed in those machines? A light duty walking foot machine may have been originally setup to be optimized for #69 bonded nylon, using a #18 needle. It may not work well with #138 thread and a #23 needle. In fact, it may hit the needle head on or deflect it into the feed dog block instead of passing close to it in the scarf above the eye. You may need a heavier duty class of machine if the standard upholstery machines can't sew your leather to your satisfaction. There are flat bed machines made to sew with heavier thread sizes and bigger needles than upholstery machines. Everything is beefed up on these beasts. They are to standard walking foot machines what those machines are to domestic sewing machines. Maybe you need to look into a Juki LU-1508NH. Or, check out the extra heavy duty flatbed machines based on the Juki 441 or Adler 205 mechanisms. Better yet, read the specs on the Cowboy CB3200 that is set up and sold by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It might be your huckleberry.

Any triple feed walking foot machine will sew leather up to 9 or 10 millimeters. There will be differences in the thread handling capacities of the different styles and sizes of hooks and shuttles. But, almost every one of these upholstery grade machines will sew up to #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread. Some have bigger bobbins than others. Some may have extra clearance in the hook to pass #207 thread, but most can't. If the machines you are looking at are used, make sure you check them out in person and see them sewing your sample pieces of leather. If you're buying new, get a parts warranty on the machine and a guarantee of technical phone or email support from the seller. There is another matter to consider and that is the cost of parts for the respective brands. Adler and Pfaff replacement parts, if needed, can be very expensive. Juki and Consew parts are less costly, in the overall scheme of things.