Wizcrafts

You will have difficulty centering the knots of 207 bonded thread in such thin material. You are more likely to have success sticking to a maximum of #138 thread for this thickness.

I didn't say that. You can modify the N thread handling capability and tension and pressure springs to NH specs. That is only a part of the difference between those models. The NH is built to sew thicker material (almost 1/2 inch) and uses a longer needle system (class 190 Pfaff system). There are both mechanical and physical differences between the two machines. That's why there is a big price difference to match.

If you're mechanically inclined you can mount a treadle under the machine table. You'll want to use a fairly wide horse hide belt, at least 5/16" and treat it with non-slip compound. There is no way to force the machine to start in the right direction, so you'll have to turn the hand wheel to start it up. You will probably need a bigger flywheel on the machine, with a bigger pulley (or bolt a bigger pulley onto the flywheel) and the smallest pulley on the treadle you can find. The greater the ratio between the pulleys, the more punching power it will have.

Ask the dealer what they will charge to upgrade you to an NH, or to readjust your machine to NH thread handling specs.

You may have to tweak the latch opener and also widen the notch in the throat plate to give the shuttle and bobbin more clearance. But try it first. Some tweaks will be needed, but it is probably doable. The check spring will also probably need to be readjusted to keep tension on the stronger thread (to keep it taut on the beginning of the take-up lever's downstroke, but let go at the right moment). Document all changes so you can revert to the original setup if it doesn't work out, or to sew with lighter thread. FYI: The Juki 1508NH is already setup to sew with #207, on top and in the bobbin. A trade up might be worth inquiring about.

The motor is defective. Something has messed up the polarity of the pole pieces. Replace it.

This is my second time around in the leather business. Last time, before packing it in, I had a Baker's Dozen of industrial sewing machines, all of which were in use.

#80 and #100 cotton covered polyester jeans thread also does a great job. I use it for a variety of jobs, including most hemming on any type of pants. It is strong and very easy to tension. I get it from Wawak in a variety of colors, in both 750 yard spools and giant 6000 yard cones. I think that jeans topstitch thread would work well on chaps and vests.

You're going have more than two machines if you get into both making and repairing leather goods. I currently own 6 industrial and 4 domestic sewing machines. I use them all from time to time. But, the bulk of my sewing is handled between a Cowboy CB4500, A long body special build Singer walking foot machine and two patchers with different builds.

The Sphynx machine I mentioned is not a 27k. It is a straight model 27, from 1902 and is the predecessor or the model 127, which I also have for sale. Nonetheless, it is an early model of a domestic sewing machine, with capabilities in excess of the plastic machines built today. Plus, it looks awesome! There is a thorough write-up, with photos, about both the 27 and 127 on this Wikipedia page.

I don't think it will fit unless you also buy the proper shim for the needle size you plan on using. The Adler 204 and 205 required a shim inside the shuttle race to prevent the needle from hitting the hook and to set the optimum clearance to avoid skipped stitches.

Precisely my point. It is who sets up the machine, specifically the hook clearance. Perhaps the O.P. asked the wrong expert?

The member known as ShoePatcher is named Glenn.

Presser feet for 29 type machines aren't that expensive. I bought an extra foot online and cut off the left toe. I used to to sew around circular ceramic magnets embedded inside leather pouches and cases. It did a fine job, leaving the needle free to sew right next to the raised area, while not getting dragged in by gravity from the blackhole; I mean magnet... The technique works, whether you are sewing around raised hardware, magnets, or piping. Why don't you sell the man a presser foot with one toe ground off? I have one I made and it works fine on my patchers.

Try rubbing in Carnauba Creme. Let it sit for an hour or more, then buff it with wool.

It depends on the hook and who sets up the machine.

In addition to holding back the starting threads, make sure that there is enough top tension to pull the lockstitches up into the bottom layer. The top tension is not guaranteed to be consistent unless the thread has some resistance before going around the upper disks. I have literally watched twisty black thread pop out of the top tension disks because I ran it straight through the top guide post, instead of around and through a second hole. Non-twisty white thread can be run straight through if desired. Just make sure that the little steel loop thread guide under the top tension disks is as far down as it can go without getting hit by the separator link that comes up when you lift the feet manually, or via the lift pedal. The greater the angle on the thread around the disks, the less likelihood of it popping out of them.

Left twist only in standard lockstitch machines. Right twist thread is used in some curved needle sole stitchers and in most dual needle machines for the left needle and hook only. If you are thinking of running linen thread in a Singer 45k, I wish you luck. I'm not saying it can't be done; just that it will be harder and messier than you think. First of all, make sure your machine has a Singer wax pot on top and that the holes are open and any internal guides are present and clean. Buy liquid hardening stitching wax, like Sellari's, Lax Wax, or Ceroxylon. I found Lax Wax had too much water content, looked like milk and softened the linen thread so much it kept breaking on the upstrokes. Ceroxylon looks and feels like rubber cement and also has a water base that softens linen thread in modern lockstitch machines. Sellari's is a real liquid wax. It is very sticky, like pure, thick honey, or STP. The wax will harden inside the stitch holes and lock the knots together and make the thread water resistant. It will need to be cleaned out of all guides, tensioners and the hook and race right after you finish sewing. Don't let it harden in the machine. You can dilute it in the wax pot and clean the thread path and needle with Sellari's wax thinner.

Call Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397). He has all manner of screws and other parts for industrial sewing machines. Otherwise, any authorized Juki dealer can get them for you.

The bottom stitches look normal to me, for a typical walking foot machine. The only way you can get a different result is to use a straight stitch machine with a hole in the throat plate that just clears the needle, or, find an elusive narrow slotted throat plate and remove the feed dog. This converts the machine into dual feed: needle and inside alternating foot. You should experiment with different needle points. There are left LL, LR, Diamond/Triangle, S, P and round points available from different manufacturers. One may give a better bottom hole appearance than the others. If you find such a needle, order it in all the sizes you intend to use.

Weaver Leather might be able to make a customized foot from an old one, if they have one laying around. Otherwise, finding an affordable Adler foot to modify may be an elusive task. Otherwise, seek out any Adler dealers, both in North America and Europe. College Sewing in the UK has lots of obscure parts. Our members down under may have a foot for that model. Ask Darren Brosowski, in Australia

This could be really expensive, as his machine is an Adler 205-370. It is what it is.

Big Sioux; I am referring to a post with holes that you might have on top of the sewing machine. My CB4500 has such a post with 4 holes bored into it. The top and bottom holes are aligned the same direction, inline with the thread path, while the two middle holes are on different angles facing across the machine. If the thread is very twisty, I sometimes feed it though the top hole, wind it clockwise around the post (looking down), then feed it through the bottom inline hole. From there it's on to the guide below the top tension disks and onward. This seems to counteract the twistiness, if that twist was counterclockwise off the spool. Otherwise, looping it counterclockwise around the post provides the sometimes required back pressure to keep the thread from twisting up out of the tension disks.

That is the same setup I have. It was setup that way by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Other dealers may do the same things to machines they sell. As I said earlier tonight, my FS-550s motor alone had trouble driving the big machine from a dead stop into a double thickness of 10-12 oz bridle leather, at low speed settings. These motors have much less torque at slow speeds that clutch motors. The 3:1 speed reducer adds the torque that is missing to get the machine sewing without handwheeling it from a dead stop. You noticed that your clutch motor continues turning the machine after you power it off. It is one of their foibles because they are so powerful. Servo motors have a tiny bit of power after you turn them off, but not more than one or two stitches, if it was set to a higher speed when you last ran it. Long time operators of machines with clutch motors learn to heel back hard on the floor pedal to lock the brake in place. The motor keeps turning but the machine doesn't. I heel back, raise the feet with the knee lever, pull the work out, cut the threads and move along. All the while, the motors keeps spinning until it simply runs of of go. I think you will be very happy with a FS-550s motor and 3:1 reducer combo. Make sure the dealer supplies the proper set of v-belts. You need two belts of radically different lengths. I think my motor to big pulley on the reducer is about 38 inches, while the small reducer pulley to the machine is about 59 inches. Both are type 3L belts. Ask for the best welded belts they offer. Belts are made differently by different manufacturers. Some cheaper ones are welded out of alignment and will cause a thump once per revolution. This becomes a serious shake at higher speeds. An opened v-belt that lies perfectly flat on a flat table will usually run true.

I just re-read you problem report. It seems that your stitch length changed when you walked up onto another layer, then returned to your preferred length once back on the original thickness. That is a whole nuther issue than I addressed. This unwanted change in stitch length with changes in thickness could be caused by an incorrectly set inside foot position in relation to the needle, or incorrect adjustment of the alternating height of the two feet. A good starting point is to remove the material and hand wheel the machine until the tip of the needle is at the height of the feed dog. Stop wheeling here. Loosen the big bolt on the mid-back of the head that controls the position of the inside foot and lower that foot to hit the feed dog with the tip of the needle. Lock down the bolt. Try sewing a sample piece. If the problem persists, try adding or subtracting pressure on the outside presser foot. This is usually done via a threaded hollow screw on top of the left end of the head, directly over the presser bar. I usually back off that spring action until it has just enough force to keep the leather/material from lifting with the ascending needle. Also, check the feed dog for free motion. It should not move from finger pressure alone. If it does some screw is not tight. There are two little screws that secure the feed dog. You have to remove the throat plate to get at them. Use a long, narrow blade screw driver to tighten them down all the way (keeping the feed dog aligned straight ahead). If those screws weren't loose and the feed dog still moves forward and backward by your finger on it, the bolts under the end of the body may be loose. You'll have to flip the machine back on its pivots to see those cranks and moving parts that move the feeder. Check the shaft that the feed arm is mounted to. It has cone shaped bolts on the left and right ends that set the position and slack. The screws should allow the shaft to move, but not so much as to be sloppy. The goal here is to have all feed parts moving smoothly, without binding and also without excess slack. Keep every moving part oiled. A properly adjusted walking foot machine won't have much difference in stitch length unless the thickness changes from one preset thickness up to 3 or 4 thicknesses. Then the pendulum* effect overrides your desired stitch length and you will have to compensate manually. But, a change of one layer shouldn't change the length that much, like you described. * The pendulum effect is the change in stitch length in a large difference in thicknesses being sewn. It is due to the fact that the needle bar is mounted at the top of the head and it swings like a pendulum as it sews forward and backward. Material that is higher up from the base level meets the needle sooner and the needle moves a shorter distance up there than it does close to the base of the machine.