Wizcrafts

I'm sorry TinkerTailor, I can't let you do that ...

It's another longshot, but try increasing the length of travel of the check spring. This spring keeps the top thread taut until the needle meets the top layer of leather. If the throw is too short, the thread slack increases until the take-up cycle begins. I normally backtack two or three stitches at the start and end of a sewing job. This locks in the thread and gives more consistent stitches the rest of the way. Also, make sure that when you initially drop the foot lift, that the top tension disk separator arm drops out of the disks and they close hard on the thread. If it hangs for a few stitches you will have very little top tension until it drops down.

Lisa Sorrell would agree. Not only does she talk to it, she even plays certain music for her curved needle machine when she prepares to sew on it. A happy machine sews better and doesn't break needles.

I suggest using a 4-5 oz split to line the guitar strap. I also would consider adding a piece of 1/2 inch thick green foam in the shoulder area. I glue these in with rubber cement, then use a bone folder to flatten the outer edges, then sew it all on.

If you identify where you are located, it sometimes makes answers to your posted questions more meaningful, if the responders actually note where you live. In most cases, it means little to nothing. But, if somebody in Europe makes a request for where he or she can buy parts or machines and a person in the USA thinks that this person is also in the USA, his or her answer may not apply to the person asking for assistance. One way to avoid confusion, which is used by a lot of members living outside the USA, is to simply mention "I live in {your country} and am looking for a supplier of parts for my {brand / model} sewing machine. This way, a person replying in the USA will not necessarily refer you to a US dealer (who may or may not be willing to handle the paperwork and packaging required ship overseas). Americans are not always familiar with European import taxes and the VAT that gets added to all parts and machines imported into these countries. The prices that we are used to paying in the USA can easily double or triple when shipped overseas.

Place an ad in the Marketplace section of LWN, under Items For Sale > Machinery > Sewing and Stitching > Used (link)

Back off the bobbin tension until there is just a slight resistance and a smooth easy pull. Back off the barrel adjuster inside the trapeze shaped lever on top and sew some test stitches. Adjust the top tension disks to position the knots. Add another couple layers of leather and screw the barrel adjuster in to add more lift to the take-up lever. This should raise the knots in thicker leather. If not, add more top tension as needed.

Sadly, most of the sewing machines we use in leather work are not self-adjusting regarding balancing the knots. Perhaps they will be in 2017... Until then, when knots form on the bottom layer, one or more of these adjustments usually helps. Tighten top tension by wrapping the top thread once around the guide post on top of machine. This also counteracts twisty thread tending to twist up out of the center of the top tension disks. Loosen the bobbin tension a half turn at a time. You only need a smooth steady pull on the bobbin. Move up one needle size. A bigger hole makes it easier to pull the thread up. Increase pressure on presser foot. This presses the work down a little more and may help set the stitches inside the material.

You're welcome! As for the needle breaking in a 7-8 oz piece, could the leather possibly contain untanned or raw hide areas? I have encountered this is some 10 - 12 oz Latigo I bought a year or so ago. I was cutting the back to get my straight edge and the blades kept hitting resistance and breaking in a certain area. After slicing it through with a head knife I discovered what I can only describe as rawhide in that section. FWIIW: I have 2 patchers. One is setup with #92 thread and a #19 or 20 needle. The other uses #69 thread and a #18 needle. The #18 gets deflected every now and then by differences inside of layers, or the leather itself. The #20 needles rarely deflect, but I keep them centered in the hole in the plate. Before centering, the needles broke more often. If centering your needle in the hole in the throat plate causes skipped stitches, try adjusting the timing of the shuttle. It is adjusted with a large flat blade screwdriver through the removable cover plate on the lower right front side of the body. There is an eccentric screw that connects the mechanism in the head to the long arm that moves the racks inside the gearbox. Once direction retards and the other advances the timing. Loss of the loop at the eye of the needle can be caused by a weak or broken/twisted check spring on the needle bar, just above the movable needle clamp bracket. Unfortunately, checking this and replacing that tiny paddle shaped spring requires removal of the needle bar from the head. There are a few ways to do this, none of which are much fun.

The needle clamping block is movable sideways. Loosen the upper screw (the one above the needle screw) and push the clamping block whichever way centers the needle in the hole in the throat plate. Then lock down the upper screw.

No, there are no roller feet made specifically for walking foot machines. They are designed to work on straight stitch machines with just one fixed position presser bar. That's not to say you can't alter one to fit your machine's rear presser bar (or possibly replace the bar with one that accepts straight stitch feet), then remove the inside alternating foot. In effect, you will have to convert the machine into a needle feed straight stitch machine (no alternating feet).

I prefer using titanium coated needles on my walking foot machine and my patchers (same needle system). The reason is that I use "leather" tape from Wawak to hold seams down for sewing. The tape tends to grab a hold of regular needles and the thread and gum them up. This is less apparent on the titanium needles which seem to resist gumming up much better. Also, there is less smoke when I sew very fast on long straps, where my speeds often reach 15 or more stitches per second.

I never said anything about the destination being a residence. I was referring to my rented room in an antiques mall.

Drat; I only have 110 volt outlets. Thanks for letting me know.

Thanks Ralf. My type 794 needles are about 2.75 inches long..

Tighten them down. They must have loosened in transit.

These machines have a maximum foot lift of 12 mm, which is about 7/16 inches. They use the medium long needle system 328, which is significantly shorter than the system 794 used in the Adler 205 and the 441 type machines. Conversely, the system 328 is somewhat longer than a standard walking foot machine needle (system 135x16 or 135x17). I don't have any 328 or their equivalent 214 needles around, so I can't be more specific.

Follow the belts and pulleys. Is the primary belt moving the pulley on the back of the machine? Is the bobbin winder release knob still pulled out (disengaged)? It needs to be rotated until it pops back into the drive position. That's when the needle drive engages. I should mention that the knob I referred to is the chrome knob on the handwheel. It pulls out and rotates one way to disengage and the other way to re-engage the main drive.

Boy, I couldn't live like that!

Here is a video showing a customer how to setup his new Union Lockstitch machine. The action starts around the 8:30 area and continues until about 9:00. It plainly shows how the foot lifts and lowers as the needle moves the leather.

Wow, thanks Eric! I'd probably enjoy the challenge of working in your factory. It would be a heck of a move though.

The Consew 225, like the Singer 111 it is based upon, is best limited to a maximum of #138 thread. You may have to readjust the hook and latch opener clearances to allow #207 to pass on top without binding or hanging in the hook on the way out. A #23 needle is fine for #138 thread, top and bottom. Use a #24 needle with #207 thread on top if the hook will allow it to clear without jamming it. Nylon sometimes needs a size larger needle than leather of a similar thickness. Only use 135x17 round point needles on webbing or nylon strapping. Leather points will slice the strands and may cause the material to unravel along the thread path. Once you have opened up the hook clearance, concentrate on balancing the tensions and pressures. Often, the top tension beehive spring on these upholstery grade machines is only medium duty, which is fine for light to medium thread sizes up to #92 or #138. If the top tension spring has to be turned all the way in to bring the knots up, back off the bobbin tension. A totally tightened beehive spring won't allow the disks to separate and release the thread tension when you raise the feet. Your machine should be able to hold down webbing with a #24 needle and #207/138 thread. Crank it down if the material lifts with the needle until it stays put. However, you need to understand that the holding strength will be limited by the smaller thread, in this case size 138, which has 22 pounds tensile strength. Your 207 top thread will only be there for appearance, not extra strength. To sew with #207 and larger thread on the top and bottom requires a different type of machine. There are several machine classes that can do this, including the Cowboy CB2500, CB3200 and CB4500, the Juki TSC-441, and the Adler 869 and 969 Eco machines that Weaver stocks and sells for heavy leather sewing.

Thank you, HockeyMender and same back-atcha. Merry Christmas to all our members.

I was seriously looking for a curved needle machine last year to do sole replacements. The expense of the machines and parts/needles made me back off for a while. Also, I was repairing work boots that had soles almost 3/4 inch thick. Not very many curved needle machines can penetrate that thickness.

I am still using clutch motors that were built 20 or 30 years ago. I doubt that my servo motors will last that long.