Wizcrafts

Andrew; I use a variety of pressor feet on that National walking foot machine you saw at my house. But, the set I use the most has a smooth left toe and inner foot. If you want to add feet, I'd recommend a 1/4" welting foot set and maybe a double split toe foot for added hold-down force. As for the stitch-in-the-ditch foot, you may have to make your own with a small grinder or sander to modify a regular inner foot. Or, just use a hand groover before you sew and an edge guide while sewing. The Adler you got from me has a nice edge guide. One type of foot I used to have for my previous ULS machine was a stepper foot (set). This was a right toe only foot that had a half round protrusion with narrow points on the bottom, on the back of the toe. The points were spaced to push the thread down, behind the needle, at the preset spi setting (5, 6, 7 ,8, etc). It acted just like a hand rolling overstitch wheel. It was hell on the leather if you turned a corner or sewed an English point on a strap, because the overstitch points would move out of the thread track and mark the leather.

I am restoring a 1916 Singer 66-1 and need some decals to finish the job. The large name decals (SINGER) are worn off and some of the red eyes and scrolls are damaged. If anyone knows where I can get some very old design new Singer decals please let me know.

The usual solution for sewing thick leather on a walking foot machine is to change the motor to a speed reduced SewPro 500GR servo motor, with a 2" pulley on the end. This will bring the top speed down to around 400 or 500 stitches per minute, maximum. The gear reduction is built in and gives a lot of low speed torque, needed to penetrate hard leather. The motor has variable speed and can be foot controlled to sew one stitch per second or less. The motor is a drop in replacement for the standard clutch motor that normally ships with industrial machines on k-legs tables. If you don't already have a source for these motors, Bob Kovar sells them at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Steve may also have them, but he will have to chime in about that.

If that machine is a portable walking foot machine, the maximum thickness it will sew, without modifications, is 5/16". Also, if you attempt to sew over 1/4" vegtan belt leather on such a machine you will need to install the Monster Wheel, from Sailrite. The portable Chinese walking foot machines can be modded to handle up to 3/8" under the feet, but require the Monster Wheel for the necessary punching power.

I have an old (1930's) Union Lockstitch machine in need of pressor feet and throat plates. Nobody here appears to have any spare parts, so I am hoping to get some made for a price I can afford. Are there any members of this forum, who have a Union Lockstitch sewing machine, who are able to fabricate pressor feet for a ULS machine? If so, can you mill them from stainless steel, to avoid discoloring wet leather? I am looking for various pressor foot types, including left toe, right toe and double split toe. I even need a standard, closed ULS pressor foot, like this one that is on my machine now (but better made): . For throat plates I am looking for plates with raised ends (for holsters and cases), with narrow needle slots (for a number 3 (200) needle and 4 (220) awl and 4 spi maximum), with and without long edge guide slots on the right side. I could also use a throat plate with a 3" long left end - to support heavy work - and long right side slots for my edge guide. Here are samples of long and short throat plates for a ULS machine: If you, or a friend, can recreate hard steel pressor feet or throat plates for a Union Lockstitch machine, please contact me through the forum links, or by phone, at: 810-422-5301.

Get ahold of Henry Veenhoven, in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. His phone number is 416-231-1870. He may still have needles for the Frobana-Gritzner sole stitchers, for which he was a dealer. He currently sells Junker & Ruh hand operated sole stitchers.

That foot controller is for a home sewing machine motor, not an industrial motor. That's what threw us for a loop. When we think of a foot pedal we are thinking about a large mechanical pedal that pivots on a steel floor bar - on a steel k-legs frame, that has linkage going up to an arm hanging down from a servo or clutch motor, mounted under a 48" x 20" x 1.75" sewing table.

If the needle and thread in it stitches perfectly on cloth, but not on your chrome tanned leather, it could be related to the pressor foot tension, being too light. Leather is tougher than most fabrics and tends to pull up as the needle rises from the hole. If this happens you will have skipped stitches. Increase the pressor foot tension and try again.

What I do for a living is a combination of arts and crafts. My primary income, believe it or not, comes from playing Country-Western, Southern Rock and Classic Rock Music, in two bands, in Flint, Michigan (+ some studio gigs). My instrument is the pedal steel guitar, which I play aggressively and precisely. I have been a professional musician since late 1974. I have toured the US and Canada, have been on live and recorded TV shows and on numerous recording sessions. See www.wiztunes.com for details. My secondary income is from computer troubleshooting, webmaster services and online security and threat consulting for websites and individuals. My current specialty lies in protecting websites and forums hosted on Apache Web Servers from hackers, spammers and scammers. To do this I write, publish and update several IP blocklists to deny access to unwanted traffic. See my Wizcrafts Computer Services webmaster page for details I made a fair amount of cash last summer and fall, doing contract sewing of guitar straps and rifle slings, for a nearby leather shop; M&M Leathercraft, with whom I have been associated since the late-1980's. I am hoping to make money again in custom leather work and contract sewing, which used to be one of my major businesses, about 15 years ago. I plan to get back into making custom gun leather and heavy belts, straps and harnesses, now that I have a Union Lockstitch machine - for the second time in my life.

I am having difficulty finding #1 1/2 needles and #4.5 or #5 awls for my Union Lockstitch machine. I still need replacement pressor feet, any type (including a standard foot), and raised throat plates for shaped holsters and cases.

I would like to get a second hand 1 1/2" diameter, half-round, hand held belt end punch. Contact me if you have one to let go of, in good cutting condition.

I have been able to find some new parts, but no old stock, or used parts. Someone must have extra parts for a Union Lockstitch machine that they can spare. I would like to buy the following items: #1, #1.5 and #3.5 needles #4 and #4.5 or #5 awls Any pressor feet for the ULS, including standard and the adjustable stepper feet and brackets Raised throat plates for holsters and stirrups, with and without slot for edge guide Short-ended throat plate to sew cases close to the post, upside down. Fixed face edge guide and hardware Bobbins T-wrenches, any size Thread guides Loopers Main take-up spring Main pressure spring and post for top of machine Take-up mechanism parts Pressor foot lift parts Various 4-sided drive screws Bobbin winder assembly Bobbin cover plate Bobbin compartment cover Misc gears 5 and 6 cord, left twist, glazed linen thread Super Cyroxiline (spelling?) clear stitching wax #346 and larger bonded polyester thread, in black, white, brown and natural.