BigRiverLeather

+1 on both of the answers you have received. I tried BOTACH at first before I learned what a problem they are. It wasn't worth the $6 or $7 savings for the hassle and time they cost me. I only order from Rings now. http://www.duncansoutdoor.com/customs.htm is my second go to place. They have a better selection of guns I believe, sometimes the more obscure firearms or special guns like models with Crimson Trace grips etc. One thing I've found is that sometimes it can be difficult on 1911 style guns to get the version I like in Cocked and Locked, with the safety up. Even the commander I got that was supposed to be cocked and locked was only cocked, but not locked. I have to grind off the safety, drill a hole for a new one and install a 1911 thumb safety on it. The Sig P238 mold from Duncans was also only available in a non- cocked and locked version. Easy enough to modify, but still a pain.

Boy Howdy those are looking good! How much time do you think the BOSS is saving you over hand stitching?

If you order the Pull The Dot snaps, make sure you get the 6-32 T nuts and 3/8" 6-32 button head cap screws that use 5/64" (I think) allen wrench. You may want to pick up 1/2" and 1/4" screws too for different leather thicknesses and applications. They are cheap enough to have a few different sizes around. Also, that holster has the T nut on the back side going through both layers of leather. I find it is a much cleaner look if you put the T nut inbetween the leather layers. When doing this, you will used the 3/8" screw likely and the 1/2" for going all the way through both layers.

A custom holster maker told me about a trick I am going to try. We were talking about the challenge of getting an even coat with brown. He said put a very thin, light coat of Neatsfoot oil on it just before you dye and it will help pull the dye in more evenly. I've not tried this out yet but hope to this weekend. If you try it and get some results, good or bad, let me know.

Thanks for those replies - AD the pictures! Very helpful. Looks like I can get into something simple for not much $$$. I'm anxious to try it, especially for anything that is not BLACK if you know what I mean.

I would like to spray on my resolene and work into spraying dye when blending colors. What should I look for in an economical sprayer? Any special tips when using one? Thanks, Scott

Great info, thank you. If I understand correctly, when working with Shark, say as trim on a reinforced mouth, or belt loops, one should put it on top of leather reinforcement or the loops rather than just using the sharkskin alone for the reinforcement, correct? When layered on top of cow or horsehide, are there any special steps required for burninshing my edges other than the standard techniques?

Can anyone give me a good source for purchasing Sharkskin, Elephant or other exotics? I've found only a couple of places. One required a $1,500 minimum order and I'd like to find some other sources to compare pricing. It's easy to find Stingray or snake skin, or even crocodile. The Sharkskin and Elephant is what eludes me the most and the most desireable for me right now. I see others charge a $40 - $50 upcharge for Sharkskin. From what I've seen I would be lucky to break even at that. Thanks, Scott

Are there any opinions on which is better for holster construction, rigidity, forming, durability etc. ? I started with shoulders but have recently ben working with sides and it seems to be a superior cut, but it does seem softer and I am wondering if this is going to translate to a holster that may not hold it's form as well, especially with an IWB. I am using 8-9 wt at this point. The flesh side is certainly smoother, it sems to cut nicer as well.

Do you have a preference which to use for holsters, sides or shoulders? Are there different qualities that may give an advantage of one over the other? The sides I have are much clearer than the shoulders, smoother flesh side and less imperfections. Undyed and unformed it seems a bit softer than a shoulder and I am wondering if this will translate to the finished product.

I feel your pain Lobo. I just finished a custom chest holster for a S&W Performance 500 with a 10 1/2" barrel and a scope on it. Took me weeks of work and a half a cow to make it. I was so impressed with myself when I finished it up and brought it in to him to have the strap sized fro him. (I work with him). He held it up to his chest, backwards and upside down. I said "no, it goes like this" as I flipped it around for him. He looked at me and I knew then exactly what I had done. "I'm a lefty" Fortunately, he was real good about it. It was mostly for carrying it through the woods, for transport when hunting. Had he not been a friend / co-worker, I'd have been rebuilding a big time project. He got a deal on it too, so he felt better about accepting it.

Is there any life left in this? If so, I have a list as well Commander 1911 3" 1911 XD9 G36 P250

neat lac or lacquer before you dye?

Yes, the bleed off comes from damp enviroments (sweat/ruboff on IWBs) both Black and Brown, and yes, as I stated I did buff them. After hours of reading on here last night it seemed many raved over the the Resolene or Angelus Acrylic finishes, but sqaw no metnion of saddlelac, neatlac or Clear-lac. Not to say those aren't viable options, just hadn't seen them posted before. Whatever can "seal" the leather without comprimising the integrity of it so it can hold it's shape is what I am looking for.

I've done a few holsters with Fiebing's oil dye and used their satin sheen finish and am having bleed off issues. Can I strip this with a deglazer and redo the top finish with Angelus acrylic or Resolene (after buffing again) and fix this problem, or are these holsters doomed? Is there a different approach I should take? I did buff them out as best I could before finishing them the first time, and applied 2-3 coats of the sheen.

On some other forums I have seen members go together on a "Group Buy", like on Maxpedition Carry bags, Magpul AR15 accessories etc. I wonder if something like this might work out where a group gets together, agrees on a list of 5 guns (or whatever the number is) and shares them. A thread or blogspot keeps track of who has what, when it is needed it is shipped to that person. If 10 people get together and get 5 guns (hypothetical numbers), that can ease the pain considerably. Just a thought which might have some wrinkles to work out, but....

Perfect. So simple, but it's nice to be pointed in the right direction.

That thickness is about right. Much of it has reinforcement etc which will add to the thickness. Of course tese are mostley concealment holsters, especially IWB which thin is good. Cowboy action holsters will be considerabely thicker, totallying 12-14lb

Where can I buy the parts for holster tension scres. I'm guessing it just screws into a T post, and I can use a button head cap screw, but what about the other parts? It looks like I might be able to just use a rubber grommet, but what do I use to screw the screw through? It almost looks like a snap post, but not quite.

Very nice! I have a question on Pic #2 showing the backside. under the reinforced sweatguard it appears that you have two sticth lines rinning accross the center of the holster. do you have reinforcement stitched into the inside of the holster or am I seeing things?

That is sssome quality work right there. I'm not much for the glossy finish, but that is just me, not a comment on the quality wich appears to be excellent. You are approching edge nirvana :D

That is a very nice job! I like the sunburst too. I've not tried to do that yet. What is really nice is that each one gets better and better after you learn from each project.