BigRiverLeather

Well then.... I guess I should have "asked Kevin"! I'll be sure to give you a call next time. For some reason I did not think you carried much in the way of exotics. Do you carry Shark?

I've got both some thick rucbber grommets and some compressable rubber hose for my retention screws. I use a book binding press for my wet forming. I would assume that one would want the area around the retention screw to remain uncompressed so that when it is dry and final assembly is done, it will actually do it's job and pull that area of the leather, whether it is near the trigger guard or whichever part of the gun, tighter around the gun. If I have my screw with rubber installed when I press, it will likely compress the rubber thus not have the ability to pull the leather down much tighter, if at all. Would I be wise to put something rigid in the rubber piece's place while in the press and until dry? It seems obvious, but I've not done it yet so I wonder if ya'll have any insight or suggestions.

I would think deglazer should make short work of the finish which at the time was satin sheen. If so, I figure I wet it down and let it case, then in the press you go!

Here are the pictures of the Elephant and Sharkskin. First the Elephant - This is a remnant from a boot cut that did not match the other. I paid $30 for this piece, not bad IMHO. Very soft yet tough - Nest the sharkskin. This cut has many different textures to it throughout the cut. Other than a few small spots, all of it should be usable. I think this piece was about $50-$60 I'm anxious to use this. I gave a holster away on a gun forum as a karma and I think I wll put sharkskin on the reinforecment as a bonus, just so I can practice. If it doesn't turn out perfect, he cant bitch about a freebie

I've found that buffing the end product out after finishing with resolene takes care fo the tacky feeling for the most part.

That looks REALLY good. I can see what happened on the belt. So, that gives you an opportunity to save me from that anguish when I get mine. Is it safe to assume that when sewing along an edge one has to be careful the feet do now slip off of the egdge making the stitch line crooked? How does one do this? Are there special feet for that application if doing belts?

I'm going to have to give it a try. I have an early holster I made that did not retain very well. I've learned a lot since then and I think I can improve it. I may even add some stitching.

Does anyone know if it is possible to reform a holster? 7-8 oz. I would strip the finish first. This would be for the same gun, just to tighten up the retention.

Is there any reason I can't airbrush on resolene 50/50 or full strength? Is there a product that would be much better? I've dyed it medium brown and have smooth side trim on it. It is an IWB holster.

I agree, It REALLY looks good with the 1911 in it.

K-Man, I really appreciate your input. Regarding most of your questions regarding difficult customers, business sense, integrity etc, I don't see any problem there. I've been in sales for 20 years and have seen all kinds and dealt with all kinds of problems. By no means do I have a level of experience with guns to qualify as a gunsmith, but when I am in a conversation with my peers regarding guns it is typical that I am far more knowledgeable than most of them, even though many of them consider themselves gun enthusiasts. I'm sure I could be "called out" by several people though, but am anxious to learn more. I know that one of the biggest desires of buyers these days is fast turnround. Many understand that the quality rigs will take more time to get, but I also realize that one has to establish themselves as such an artisan. I believe that I fall more into that category. I may not yet provide the quality that some others do yet, but my products get better and better with experience. Nothing I do is rushed and every project I do I take proide in the finished product, both in fit nd finish as well as functionality. I'm inspired by many, some of my products resemble others, some are my own, some are combinations of others. I really appreciate the input on the Boss. It looks like it would be worth the upgrade to a Toro or similar machine. I wonder what the feasability of offering an express line for speed of delivery with functionality and a custom line for detailed custome work? I think Mitch Rosen does this.

Looks good! I love seeing other peoples gadgets in their shops.

As expected, rather so far, greater than I expected, there is a lot of good input here. You've reinforced my feelings that I have two things on my immediate horizon. 1 - I need to dedicate a day to complete my website. 2 - as much as I like the look of my saddle stitching, I believe I need to expedite the aquisition of a Boss.

That is pretty good particle that you have about an order a day for part time work. I get about an order a week which is really all I can handle. I'm still hand stitiching so that is taking some time. I'm completing orders from December now which is much further behind than I wanted to ever get. I hope to ship 3 after this weekend. My only advertising is posting on a gun forum,. not even in the classifieds, just once in a while when someone asks about a type of holster as well as being a regular contributor. If I advertised in the classifieds I'd get unbelieveably backed up. A boss is in my future, but I'm not going to borrow or put it on a credit card. I have a customer (from my day job) who ordered a holster and he owns a steel fabrication business. He said he cut cut out my patterns in either his press, laser or waterjet cutters. Do you mind telling what type of advertising you are doing or how you are getting your business?

The Previous suggestions are all good. As far as cleaning up your edges, after you have everything glued, sand your edges smooth witha drum sander, then bevel your edges, then sand by hand until everything is smooth and even. Start with about a 100 grit, then I got to 220 and 340. They will be very uinform and even. Then I mounted a wooden sewing bbin onto a bolt and put it in my drill press to burnish the edges. You can use gum trag or even water, but I use saddle soap, it reall slicks things up. Don't apply a lot of pressure, just glide it over the spindle. Even a dowel with grooves works, but I like the larger diameter of the bobbin to keep it even.

I'm at a crossroads in my life (aren't we all that are in our mid 40's?) and looking for a job change. I've been doing custom holster work for about a year and really enjoy it, though I am spending most of my free time when not at my real job working leather. I am trying to decide if I should just be looking for a different job in my same field (heavy construction equipment sales) or jump into the leather business full time. I had worked myself up to a comfortable income (close to 6 figures) until the combination of the economy falling and the pay cuts dished out by my ungrateful to his top salesman / still jetsetting employer have brought me to about a 50-60K year level, for now. I know asking someone what their income is can be a personal question so I am going to put it out in a poll. The question is more in regards to annual sales volume rather than what you put in your pocket. I can do the math from there on what I could expect. I believe that efficiency would be key to use it as a full time business venture that would generate the income that I require which is by no means posh (my newest vehicle is a '98 escort, my boat is a rotten 1984 Bayliner, my truck has 300K on it - you get the picture) If you would like to offer more information that might be be helpful I would appreciate it, like how many units etc, you estimated annual expenses, targeted profit margin. I'm hoping to put together a business plan if I decide to take this further. Thanks, Scott

...and the finished product on this one. I tried a different method on my belt loops this time. I saw 1" straps at Tandy that was about an 8-9 oz and I thought that would save me a little time cutting belt loops. I don't care for it very much. It wrinkled up on one side near the snap when I tried forming it for the belt. I like a little heavier belt loop just so they hold up, but this was a bit much and I don't like the hide it was cut from. Now I have about 5' of 1" strap with nothing to do

As far as I know there are not different weights. What I got was about the thickness of a 4 oz give or take. Surprisingly soft and flexible yet very durable, a bit more than an equivelent weight in cowhide. I've not yet cut it or punched it yet so I don't know if that is much more difficult, but with a sharp blade I don't expect it to be to much trouble. I'm looking forward to my first exotic trim. I only hope I can make one for myself before I get to my customers order! I'll try to take some close up pictures this afternoon and play with it a little.

I'll be watching this thread, and posting my own sometime soon I hope. What a great idea getting the mag of mixed exotics. I'll bet that's a pretty good deal on that.

I was hoping someone would answer this question. I have to believe that, especially if using an acrylic type fininsh inside, it has to be done after wet forming or the water would not penetrate like it should. Airbrushing the inside? I could see where maybe the beeswax/ neatsfoot paste could be rubbed in before hand. I've not used resolene in my airbrush yet. When I do use it on the inside of my holsters, I use a small sponge and run it down in. I recently bought a bunch of the foam paint brushes and I'm going to try that.

Call Springfield. I just got my first piece from them. It was 7-8 double shoulder. I don't think it was HO, they called it #1 which she said would be a better cut yet. Tell them you are making holsters and you want something that is as free of blemishes as possible. I typically prefer sides as they tend to be more free of striations and blemishes, especially around the back like you see on double shoulders. This double should er is nearly 100% usable. I was floored. The flesh side was immaculate and consistent. Just tell them this is your first order and you want to be impressed. I sure was. You won't find nicer people either.

Great tutorial, Thanks for sharing that with us. That should make the next ones go easier. One thing I do a little different is I punch my holes for my T-nut in the top layer before I glue the two sides together. I think this makes for a cleaner finish without the T-nut being exposed on the backside. I had a Milt Sparks VMII I bought just to look at. What I am still puzzled about is how they manage to get that piece of steel in theirs like they do. I was very surprized at how stiff the steel was. I guess it is possible they bend it after they get it in, but if it is spring steel, which they claim, I doubt it. I'm looking forward to trying this method, as opposed to having an anxiety attack :D

Since it is a 1911 it basically is the same exact platform. There will be no difference in the slide or trigger gaurd so everythign will fit right. I've used my Rings mold for Kimbers and the EMP which is a 9mm but the same frame as the .45. The only 1911 that I've run into that was different, other than a custom job, was Sigs 1911s. The front of their dust cover is shaped differently. they just had to be different However, I used a std Commander mold and the Sig fit even with that difference. Be aware the Rings micro (as well as the Kimber from Duncan) is not cocked and locked. You will either need to form that in your holster by hand or, I've got 1911 safety and ground off the old one, drilled the mold and mounted the new safety in that position.

Nice Job. I too do CCW holsters and I am looking forward to when I have time (HA!) to do one of those projects for myself and include some tooling on them.

Rings has the 3" 1911 mold as that is where I got mine. It can be used for most 3" 1911's. www.blueguns.com Duncan also has a 3" Ultra Raptor which will work for you. DUNCAN CUSTOMS, INC. 501 SALZBURG AVE.BAY CITY, MI 48706(989) 894-669-6691 www.duncansoutdoor.com