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BigRiverLeather

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Everything posted by BigRiverLeather

  1. Like the rest of us, you will soon have a large box of holsters that are REALLY nice but can't do much with them :D I recently did a belt carry pouch for a Sig P238 subcompact. After pouring HOURS into that in design and coming up with a whole new design by the time I was done, the customer decided that that type of carry was not at all for him. I ended up making him an IWB, but I learned a lot about making a pouch and next time I should be able to whip through it fairly quickly. I don't even feel right selling my prototypes. CCW is a serious matter that should not be comprimised so I just suck it up.
  2. Ok, here are the pics I took of the construction. I've got two of them going so I took pictures of both. Top piece laying on top of bottom piece with reinforcement stitched on the backside. Wehn I cut the holster out I cut from the wing on the right straight across to the slide guard, then cut a slit down the side of the wing coming in to the center of the holster near the bottom. This is then trimmed about half way back where the two pieces will come together butted up for the seam as you will see in the next pictures. I hope that is clear enough - another of an unstained holster which is easier to see. This one has a better fitting cut The two pieces before being joined Again, a clearer shot. You can see how I've grooved it just back a little bit so it bends easier to butt up. using 8-9 oz this was necessary to make this short radius bend Pushed together Steel reinforcement strap. inserted inbetween reinforcement and holster on the slide gaurd. Be careful not to glue the area where this will be sliding in to! Don't ask me how I know this. Held together by hand closer again After the leap of faith gluing it together hoping my prepunched holes line up like I checked them out to several times. I only had to get creative on my stitch once! Though you see a gap at the seam now, when it is pulled together it joins pretty nicely I'll post the finished product when done.
  3. I picked up a book binding press which works along the same concept. I get great results from it. I paid $170 for it shipped which from what I've seen out there was a steal.
  4. Congratulations Bruce. You have done something that is very, very difficult to do, even for th most refined craftsmen on this forum or anywhere for that matter. You sir, made a Glock look good!
  5. Very nice. I might try to bring the curve of the leather up a little higher on the slide for a couple of reasons. It will bring the belt higher on the gun, closer to the center pulling it in tighter which will increase both concealment and comfort. Secondly it will cover the trigger gaurd a little more. What you have covers the trigger fine, but I'm learning that some people like the gaurd covered as much as possible. I did a new one this weekend similar to your. After my thrid pattern cut out I found I got it deep enough for what I need. I think my next one I am going to make it even deeper bringing the leather higher up on the slide yet. There is still plenty of room to get a good grip if I do, then it will be concealed better and more comfortable. EDIT: I forgot the reason I replied. On this one I used 6-7 oz which I think is the minimum I would use. I normally work with 8-9 but I'm thinking on my IWB's from now on I will be using 6-7 or 7-8 depending on the model of holster and gun. I'm a big fan of 8-9 and have been using that on most of my IWB's except for those for subcompacts usually. I was bummed when the dye did not turn out to be even on the reniforcement and the belt loop. If anybody asks, it was intentional. This was my first time using the airbrush and except for black, I am sold and this is the way all will be done from now on. Did you try this one on and wear it? How comfortable was it for you? I'll say this, your fit and finish appears to be awesome. Your edges especially look great.
  6. I didn't forget about you. I took pics this weekend and forgot to bring my camera to work to upload them. Hopefully Tuesday.
  7. Since we are on the topic of something that has been on my mind A LOT the past month or two, I will be specific about one type of sharpening I am interested in. I've been considering a head knife, and for starting out I'd probably start with the CSO #70 or the #71. I just now learned that there is a difference between a head knife and a round knife One step forward and two steps back. Now I need to find out which of those I need as a first tool. Anyway, Before i buy a head (or round knife) knife, I want to be able to line up the proper tools to keep it sharp. I should find a cheap beater to practice on first so I don't ruin my investment or get discouraged. My budget for the sharpening system should not exceed $50 - $60 tops, but lower would be really good as despite what my lovely and talented bride will tell you, I can be a cheap SOB :D
  8. Thanks for the kind words, though I got wrapped up last night in pressing orders and spaced out the pictures. I'll either get them tonight or within the next few days for sure. I looked at Brigades as well and could not see a seem. I even posted on gun forums asking for pictures of that specifice area but for those who were not making holsters, only enjoying wearing them, it was really tough to get them to understand what it was I was really looking for and could never get the right angle and/or lighting. Though you cant' see it, guaranteed, there is a seam in there. The Milt Sparks VMII I bought had one in there, but my hats off to them as they do an excellent job of matching it up. I am still working on the perfect cut to make that seam line up. I'm using 8-9 oz leather, the VMII appears to be 7-8 oz so it may be easier to get the short leather tabs (you'll see what I mean) to bend around and seam up. With my heavier leaver, I have to groove it to get that curve on the inside. Functionaly it is just fine, but for extreme details, I'd like to clean that up. I did try to skive my first one, and I should try that again now that I have more experience with all the other details and nuances. I sure wish I was close to one of those manufacturers so I could ask to see how it was done, assuming they would be gracious enough to accomodate me. I recently emailed Matt Del Fatti and asked him if I could visit him in his shop and pick up some pointers. He was gracious enough to reply, though declined since he was so busy he could not make time for that (he is working on orders from 2007 right now and is not accepting any more orders). However, he did offer that I could send him some of my work and he would review it and offer up suggestions where needed. If I ever get time to make myself something or stock, I'd love to do that. But you know, the cobblers kids have no shoes. Correction: I looked closer at the picture mattsh originally posted which I incorrectly identified as a VMII and see that it is the M11 Brigade. My bad, I did not look very close.
  9. That's a good reason to deal with Ring's directly. Not only do you get faster, better service, but if you are going to buy from them on a regular basis, they will put it in your profile that none of your product will have the blue finish on it. I got my first few from Bo-Tach- Stay Away! However, at the time I was unaware of the finish and never noticed it on my holsters.
  10. I've been building holsters like that. It was, and still is, a challenge. I tried the way Denster explained and it kind of worked for me. It does not lay as flat as one would like to make the stitching easy, but it is helpful to keep everything secure and in place while doing your work. If nothing else glue the front wing together. First you need to do some work to get the shape and cut of the curve behind the reniforcement and the gap between that and the front wing. I ended up buying a VMII (the holster pictured) just so I could see how it was done after I had done a few and I was pretty much right one. I've been refining it over time and except for the miscalculation on the leather to cover the trigger on this one, I've pretty much got it down. Mine rides a touch lower than the Milt Sparks VMII, more like the TT Gunleather Mike's Special. Anyway, I'm working on one right now, my first one with steel reinforcement which I feel is completely unecessary not to mention a real PIA. I'll try to take some pictures tonight because I am right at the stage of sticthing on the reinforcement and I acn show you the cuts between it and the wing that can help you. Mine are all hand stitched so if you are using a sewing machine, that may present some new challenges. Plan on making one or two for yourself or prototypes before you get a presentable, rather sellable model. Here was my first one. It turned out pretty good and is my every day carry. This style of holster is VERY comfortable. I'm not looking forward to spring/summer when I go back to wearing a tucked in shirt and go back to my tuckable holster.
  11. I'm feeling very inadequate right now. Very nice work on both. I have to agree, the depth and detail is amazing. I'll bet it looks even more astounding in person.
  12. Yeah, you cobbled that one together. I can't believe you even had the nerve to post that shoddy workmanship here. Kidding of course, looks good to me. Those grips are mighty hot as well! How does one go about making those to shape? Lots of sanding etc to get them to size? I would think it is really tough to get them to match exactly.
  13. Outstanding tooling and carving work. I took my first carving class last month and I can really appreciate the time, patience and skill that went into that. Have you been carving long?
  14. I finally ordered some Sharkskin and Elephant from Henry at Ostrich Market. What great people to deal with. I'm all a-tingle now to get my new hides and dress up some leather. It actually was not as expensive as I thought it was going to be $97 for a 5 sq ft piece which should provide quite a bit of workable material. He had some elephant scraps cut out that he made me a deal on too. I feel a long term relationship has just begun. Henry spoke highly of you Dave
  15. I got my stamp from www.greyghostgraphics.com. It is made from Derlin (sp?) and ran me about $75 shipped.
  16. Rob, If you are like I was, the ends would be the biggest problem, getting them to look even and uniformly round. I ended up taking a 1' steel pipe, ground back 1/2 of one end about 1/2" to make a 1/2 round punch. I sharpened the other half and put a pipe cap on the other end where I strike it. If you want 1" loops, by 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" pipe. I make my loops 7/8" so it works perfectly, or close enough for me.
  17. I'll recommend Jeff at http://www.greyghostgraphics.com/. He makes his out of derlon (?) and they are much more economical (I think I paid $75 for mine) than the steel ones I've seen which is nice if you want to get more than one size. You can download his brochure from his website. Very fast delivery too.
  18. I *Think* I can speak for the OP when I say that the flap is a design feature that when inside the pants, down below the hip, helps pull the holster in and around the hip, thus pulling the grip in tighter to the body. Whether you use a flap, or some type of design that is along the belt line that will accomplish the same thing by pulling it in, it really helps in concealment. I've recently implemented that style of flap on some of my holsters, especially those with longer mag wells and grips. If I'm wrong, somebody put me in my place please.
  19. I can't provide you with any first hand insight, But I can tell you that I'm sure you would be able to use the same die for many different guns. I'll bet for glock you could get by with about 4 dies, Many Sig's have very similar dimensions. In fact, I ordered a P250c mold from Rings that is taking quite a while and I had a deadline for the holster. I obtained a spreadsheet that lists the dimensions of Most Sigs (rediculously detailed with a micrometer), asked for some picture comparisons on www.sigforum.com (I'm ironguy) and deduced that my P220 Carry looks to be almost the same as the P250 with the exception of the rear of the slide and grip which I just left a bit over sized. The mold should show up to day and I just have to finish it off. I will also be able to put a Sig P229, P228,, P245 H&K P2000 and many more I'm sure. the biggest difference will mostly lie in the sweat shield which can easily be trimmed. I'd have to see a lot of business and be doing this full time plus to consider a clicker die. They will run over a couple grand, won't they? I suppose a guy (or gal:D) could use a hyd press from Harbor Freight. I'm also not sure how I would have the dies made, any inside info on that?
  20. That is a very nice piece of work. Once you do the tweaks you've listed, it will be top quality. Question: What treatment did you give to the flesh side? I presume you left it natural? Satin Sheen?
  21. Wow, so far 3 votes for shoulders and 3 for sides, but none for backs which she recommended to me. Hmm...
  22. Rings has the 5" cocked and locked (non rail for sure), it is just my commander and the 3" micro that is not cocked and locked. A dremel or anything would grind off the safety on either. It would not take much.
  23. WOW! That's a real hand cannon to be carrying SOB. That is not something I've built yet but I am thinking I should squeeze a few in between orders. So many people request them even though I'm not a big proponent of them.
  24. I'm going to give Hermann Oak a shot and since I'm not buying in bulk, it looks like Springfield should be my go to supplier. What is your preferred cut of concealed carry holsters, mostly wet molding, not much tooling other than hand boning. I know the weights I need for different applications, but which cut do you like from them out of the following Backs Double Shoulder Sides I talked to them yesterday and with their help I am leaning towards the back, not much belly, fairly clean etc. What say you?
  25. It sounds like you are addressing the stitching. I might recommend a 4 prong and 1 prong stitching punch. On straighter lines this will help keep the holes straight and even and you can use the single punch with a #5 overstitcher to mark the holes for corners and bends. I took a dremel and rounded the edges a bit so the back side looks cleaner. Anywhere you get your leather you can find these. They alos make it in a diamond shape punch rather than the square shown here. It will speed things up significantly as well. For your edges, I prefer to use a drill press with a sanding drum, or if you have an ocsillating spindle sander, as they will leave a smoother edge using the larger sanding drums than what a dremel uses. It is easier to get a nices smooth, even edge. Do this after glueinguntil both edges are completely even. Then you can cut in your stitching grooves. after that, use your edge beveler. Dampen the edges and sand the edges by hand, starting with about 100, then 220, then one finer. black dye or whatever you like on the edge, then buff it out with some saddle soap. Gum tragacanth works too, but I'm liking the results of saddle soap more (denim or duck cloth for applying this. Speed is key, move it fast!). A little beeswax after that is used by many, but I have not yet received the results I like on that, sometimes a bit of a cracked look. Hit it with a buffing wheel and your edges will look like glass. Oil based dyes will probably work best for you, then a coat of acrylic resolene on top to seal it. Your very close to hitting it on the head. Keep it up!
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