BigRiverLeather

A BIG +1 for Black Resolene. Kevin just hooked me up with some. I did not know that even existed. I tried it for the first time the other night and I am VERY impressed. Anything I do in black from now on will be getting that. Lose the Sheen products. Go to resolene for the finsh you would like. Be forewarned though, resolene will leave a tacky finish that may cause your brow to crumple. buffing ona a buffing wheel oand or hitting it with Kiwi Neutral shoe polish helps take care of that. That was the bonus suprise I got from the black resolene, there was little or no tacky feel when I was done. I was thrilled!

Intersting thought. I could see trying out a camo holster in "my spare time" Brownells has some less expensive templates in several different patterns. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26813/Product/CAMOUFLAGE_STENCILS

I couldn't find a Pink dye that I like or would work for a holster I was making so I tried out one of the Pink shades of Cova. I was concerned about it apearing to "thick" and leaving brush marks on the leather. So, after brainstorming, if you can call it that with my local Tandy guys, I tried applying it to a few pieces of scrap a few different ways. right out of the bottle - good color but I had a hard time not leaving marks from either a foam rush or a high quality 1" paint brush. Mixed with about 20% resolene - Yeah, I like it. I like how it applies, I like how it maintained the color, it still could apply a little smoother Mixed with 20% resolene and about 10% water - This worked well for me. Still left a little bit of brush marks, but I can work with that. I toook some 400 grit and 800 grit paper to it and that took most of any ridges out of it. it also gave me a flat finish if I should want that. I will be applying a final coat of resolene so it should look Jim Dandy when that is done. I really like what miking the resolene in did for thinning it a bit. I would think that would help maintain some of the integrity that acrylics are supposed to have.

I was talking with Kevin at Springfield about all of the things I didn't know I needed, I asked him about different finishes and he asked if I had ever tried using black Resolene. I had no idea such a thing even existed. He said that if you are dying black and you use the black resolene on top as opposed to the standard resolene, you will get a much blacker black. So I ordered up a small bottle with my other stuff. I had a chance to use ti the other night on a holster. mixed it 50/50 and ran it through my Harbor Freight air brush. Went on about the same. It didn't take long when I could see what he was talking about. It really did make it BLACK! I was very happy. However, what Kevin didn;t tell me, was something that made me even happier. After letting it dry overnight I went to retrieve them off of my drying dowel. Reaching for it I fully expected it to be very tacky like they usually are after finishing. Low and behold it was barely tacky at all! So good that there was no need to address it in any way. (I've been rubbing mine down with Kiwi Nuetral Shoe polish which gets rid of the tacik but it also takes some of the shine out). Thank you Kevin!

I like that design too. I've got peices cut out for a similar type only with a double loop setup. I was inspired by TT Gunleather's Stronghold Pheonix but trying to put my own spin on it. This is the only other one I've ever seen with that design. Here is the TT - I wanted to base mine on a cross between my DLC and my DLI, show below respectively

Very nice work! How do you keep the axe sheath on, is there some type of hidden retention?

For those of you in the know, if one were to use lighter leather for the harness, what weight is a good weight to use? Also, would you make it a little wider where it goes over the shoulders?

I'm anxious to see the pictures. Do I understand it correctly that you are going in this order - Dye Satin Sheen Antique Satin Sheen Are you applying the Satin Sheen before you antique? Doesn't that block the antique completely or more than you want? I don't know, that is why I am asking. -Thread Drift Ahead - I sometimes get a kick out of customers that want you to do something different, they have a million dollar idea that is going to make us rich beyond our wildest dreams (like the project Eric is working on) and because of that, and the fact that you are doing this for the first time, the customer thinks he should get this extra upgrade for little or nothing when in fact it takes so much of your time and you wonder how many times, if any, you will do it again. On the other hand, there are plenty of customers that are more than happy to pay you for your time. -End of Thread Drift-

I'm offering gun belts now and have started out by ordering some 1.5 belt strips in HO from Springfield. I want them to match my HO holsters as close as possible. I see a lot of belt makers promote Bullhide. Is there an advantage over HO? What are the drawbacks, if any, of HO? I'll be stitching them on a Toro 3000. Any other suggestions that someone wants to through my way before I start are welcome! Scott

I was surfing the interwebs and saw these two holsters reviewed somewhere, I think it was from some magazine. It talked about an "up and coming" holster maker :D so it must have been a few years back. It was my final inspiration to make one for my GP100. A year and a half of making holsters and this is my first avenger style. I call it the BNP, Bruce Nelson Professional. For me it conceals under an untucked square bottom camp shirt.

After checking out his website I saw he was in Rochester which is only an hour away from me. I just received a Jeff Cook knife yesterday which I am very impressed with but had I known Knipschield was so close I would have paid him a visit. Maybe next time, if there is a next time. I've also got a Dewey Peters 4" on order. I'm anxious to see the difference as Dewey's blade which came highly recommended was about 1/4 the price.

Here is my GP100 in my BNA (Bruce Nelson Avenger) soon to renamed BNP (Bruce Nelson Professional). It is the only picture I have and it is not quite finished in this picture. Edges are not done and no finish coat. This was a mistake wearing it like this that day as I dinged the leather pretty good when it was unprotected.

I love that look! How did you get that? I presume you beat the horshide with a chain or something while the leather was cased, then used an antique finish?

Wow. It seems a battle has ensued about right or wrong when I don't see an instance where one said the other person was doing anything wrong, only different. I'm with abn, as with so many other things along my journey into the realm of leatherwork, I take a bit from here, and a bit from there sometimes blend a couple of differnet methods, sometimes I make it up on my own (often learning why no-one else does it that way ) and my learning curve is greatly reduced. I like the idea of using 2 layers of 6/7 ounce, probably because I already had that stuck in my thick skull. I also like the idea of not staining the inside layer as to prevent bleedoff. No stain, no chance of bleed off ever. Plu, I really like the look, it looks like extra time and care were taken in the construction. Frankly, I'm not even sure what part of the belt you are referring to sewing straight across (or not). At the end of the two layers before the fold over the buckle? Anyway, I appreciate the tips from all sides. I'm really looking forward to doing some exotic skin belts.

Dewey does not have a website. At least I don't think so, I didn't think to ask him. Here is his contact info. Real nice guy to talk to. Duey Peters P.O. Box 159 407 N. Bluff Blunt SD 57522 Phone: (605)962-6227 dpeters@sullybuttes.net I'm anxious to get both and compare them. I will certainly post pics when they show up, both are supposed to ship within a couple of weeks.

Thanks for posting this. I've been procrastinating on putting one of these together. I have the motor and like you, need a place to mount it, the shaft, bearings and pulleys. All easily found at my local Tractor Supply Co.

I'm diving into the realm of head knives. I just ordered a couple from a couple of different guys that I dug up on this forum. The first one I ordered was from Dewey Peters, a 4" "high carbon" blade. Excellent price on it, well under $100 shipped I thougt I was set then, but I got a call back from Jeff Cook with whom I had left a message the previous day. Following him along on his website http://www.jcookblades.com/leather.htm I couldn't help myself and had to order one of his blades, a 3" gem like this Though after ordering both blades I'm well over double my $125 target, I'll have two highly recommended blades to compare and contrast, as well as learn on. To say I'm pumped would be an understatement!

Mine are 1" then my 1 1/2" round punch makes a perfect end with minimal sanding req'd.

Here I was al ready to jump ino this too but planned on using double layer 6/7 oz. Isn't that what a lot of double layer manufacturers are using, The Beltman etc? Double layer of 8-9 oz just seems enormous!

For an 1.5" belt I cut my strips 5 1/2" long. I center my snap on the end of the loop. IIRC the measurement from the end of the rounded loop to the center of the snap was 1/2", but I can't be sure. I pretty much just eyeball it. You can see where I put them in this picture.

Adam, do you think you could post pics of the front side of your hide(s)? I'd like to compare it to the last couple I've received from a well known HO supplier. I've not been thrilled with what I received, but maybe I'm expecting too much. I'm very clear about having them pick out the best hide they can get, but I'm not completely confident in that. The person on the phone really doesn't seem to have much, if any knowledge. Any time I ask a question they have to go ask someone else. The website of my supplier claims that it is B grade HO. My invoice says "Craftsman". I'm assuming these are different and from my days of buying hides from Tandy, I recall that Craftsman hides from them were not the best. I'd like to compare the front of you C grade to what I have been receiving if that is not to inconvenient. Thanks,