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Everything posted by Norwegian
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Wow! Nice!
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Glenn, thank you! Like the ones in my picture? There are different feet for different 45K models.
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Thank you! I'm not sure I should try, will need some changes.. Let me get some measurements tomorrow.
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Would it be possible to make a presser foot somehow? It's hopeless to find feet for a Singer 45K58. Would 3d plastic be too soft/get worn out too fast?
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Holster patterns Ruger and Colt
Norwegian replied to Norwegian's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you! -
Holster patterns Ruger and Colt
Norwegian replied to Norwegian's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it! Good suggestions, this might be the way to go! And no, I can't have the guns in the shop. I guess the customer can bring them here and show them to me, but not much more, but I have to double check with the police.. I have sure looked for a new model Blackhawk pattern, but no luck this far. -
Holster patterns Ruger and Colt
Norwegian replied to Norwegian's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you! I also had the thought about similar guns, but I don't have enough knowledge about guns. -
Holster patterns Ruger and Colt
Norwegian replied to Norwegian's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you, 327fed! I found the Stohlman and Tandy patterns. Will look through them now -
Holster patterns Ruger and Colt
Norwegian replied to Norwegian's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you! -
The WSV7 is finally up and running! I have not found any difference between this and the W124, it has the same gears, same needle travel, etc.. Possibly something was done/changed/removed before I got the machines..
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Thank you!
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Bought 2 "110" machines for 10 bucks.. A "110WSV7" and a "110W124" Does anyone have any information about the more unusual "110WSV7" model? They are both in bad shape, they don't turn (I'm not sure why yet. The roller feed on the SV7 doesn't move, but the hook does) and are missing parts. Am I wasting time trying to get them up and running again? Can I find parts, and where might I find parts? Have spent some time on google, ebay, and some online sewing shops, but haven't found much.. I have the parts- and user manual, but haven't seen a complete machine in "real life", so I'm kind of unsure about what each machine is missing since there seems to be some differences among the different 110 models. Thankful for any info and help!
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Wow! Very nice!
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- gladstone
- bridle leather
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I will try other needle systems, thank you!
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Thank you, Uwe, I've tried that.. And I've tried a couple of other holders too.. Won't work.. And as Constabulary says, the Pfaff parts are kind of expensive, so I'm not sure if I want to take the chance and buy new ones for another model..
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Thanks again! This is what I have.. The "holder" in the pictures is what came with the machine.. But it will not hold the needle good enough.. Am I missing something here? Do you think it's the original part? I feel like there is something missing.. Since I don't have a machine to compare to, it's complicated, soooo much easier with the old Singers I have.
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Thank you for answering! This is what I need.. Needle holder and screw.. It looked like everything was in place when I picked the machine up, but it wasn't.. Something else was screwed on that doesn't hold the needle good enough.. It was worth the risk, didn't pay for the machine, but I really want to get it running..
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Hi! I need a few small parts for a old Pfaff 134-06. I have the part numbers, but that is as far as I have come.. Can anyone recommend a good supplier for old machine parts? Any ideas welcome! Rik
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Thank you, Cowboy! That would be great!!
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Hi! I got this stitcher as payment for some work I did for a friend.. We found it in her barn.. Does anyone have a manual or pictures? Would like to know if anything is missing, and how to thread it correctly..
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I've closed my saddle making business, so I have a Dürkopp Adler 205-370 for sale for our scandinavian friends! The machine is in the Trondheim region i Norway. Runs on "3-fas" and a small "luftkompressor". Asking for 25 000 NOK. Email: rikardkarvag@hotmail.com Phone: + 47 936 16 255 (speaks Swedish, Norwegian, and English) my "used to be" business: www.salmakerkaarvaag.com
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Ok, let's just say YOU are right, get a new tree, and kill this thread.. Or.. I do realise that I might seem to be disrespectful in this thread. But, I do have the deepest respect for you guys! Your knowledge and craftmanship is something I, as a beginner, only can wish and hope for in the future. But, please, your answers might seem easy to you experienced guys, but for me as a novice in saddle making, and the guy who started this thread (since he asked about how to raise the cantle, I suppose he is a beginner too) it might not be that easy.. I might be new in saddle making, but I'm not new when it comes to horses.. We "breed" and sell race horses to some of the top trainers here.. I know horses. Their physical strenghts and weakneses, how different one horse can be from another, etc.. That, and the fact that I'm a beginner in saddle making, might make it easier for me to see the problems with a new tree instead of raising the cantle for a beginner.. If it's a crappy saddle, sure, throw it away or practise on it, and start over with a new tree. But, let's assume this: The saddle in question really fits one or more of the owners horses. It might be a high quality tree under the leather, but the owner would like some changes on it anyway.. As a BEGINNER here, it might actually seem easier to change the ground, seat and cantle, instead of starting over with a new tree. Why? Because if you don't mess too much with the seat etc you will still have a pretty good saddle that fits the horse! Fitting a new tree/saddle WELL to the horse might be easy for you that are more experienced, but maybe not for a beginner. And two inches of cantle top is not a vital part of the saddle, IF it will break later, it's not the end of the world. And two inches of bondo, put on top of the cantle the right way, on a good quality tree is probably far better than a new tree(of what quality?) that might not fit the horse and rider as good as the old one.. Ok, I'm done with my bla bla bla.. Rik
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Festus, sorry for hi-jacking your thread, but maybe you've already found your answers..? AndyKnight, since you are commenting on one of my first saddles/trees (I have not built the tree) that is used on the farm as a "hobby saddle", what knots are you reffering to? These? They are hardly not enough to compromise the strength of the tree, are they? The other marks on the (unused) tree are, as you surely know, miscolorings from the nails that were used to attach the original rawhide.. I'm sure you guys are interested in selling a new tree, but why not instead discuss the reason for putting on a high cantle on the "wade saddles"? It's mostly for looks, right? Maybe comfort? I'd say that a good and secure rider doesn't need a high cantle to feel secure in the saddle.. Hope you don't mind me picking on what you are writing, I just enjoy a discussion.. Rik