Bobby hdflame

No, not sure what I'm going to use it for yet. It seems to be pretty stiff and hard. I know I've seen it used for the sweat shield on holsters and lining side on belts.

I like it. The picture is appropriate too! I got some horse butt to use for some holsters but haven't tried it yet. I wonder why you can only get the butt section and not the whole hide?

I really like the mud flap! I don't understand how you did the molding of the design. Do you have any pictures of making the design in the leather? Thanks for sharing!

Seat looks great! What's the size/part number of the basketweave stamp? URL?

That looks good! I have some python and stingray to use on something, just haven't decidedon what yet. Also want to get some shark and rattlesnake. I'll bet the elephant is thick and tough! I'll get some mop and glow and try it.

Do you have any pictures of it? I'm working on a pocket holster for it first. Just can't decide on which style. On the Avenger for the 40 cal, I used some bag kote finish on it and was not happy at all. I thought it was more like a wax finish, but it seemed to be an acrylic instead. I had a couple of places where it turned milky and dull when I sprayed it on. After it dried, I decided to go over it with leather balm with atom wax. It made some if it sticky feeling and actually made some of it come off, so now I need to remove all of the finish and start over. Since I used crappy leather and it was mainly just for practice, I'm probably not going to worry about it.

Sorry I missed this question. Yes it did. I have great control on mine. I can basically sew in slow motion! I'm having a little problem with the EPS though. I just unplugged it and used it manually. No problem. I talked to Steve about the EPS. He's going to send me a new motor to try. Can't ask for more than that. I can keep sewing on it manually while waiting on a new motor and EPS. He said they would completely test it before shipping. Even though mine was tested, it's possible that something got bumped in shipping. I can't complain about their service and support or the machine. I love it!

I'll second that.....pictures!

You know, I was watching a video on YouTube this morning and saw them using a modeling spoon and thought, DUH, I have one and didn't even think about using it! I did use my bone folder but I noticed that on one end it had a couple of nicks, probably from being dropped. I'll pick up another one just to use on boning. I've been using this one for pushing out corners when doing upholstery. Think I need one dedicated to just leather work. I've also seen some of the leather tool handles used for molding. And also sharpie pens and the round wooden burnishing tools. I just sprayed some bag kote on the holster and wasn't impressed with it. First time using it and it left some milky places on it. I've been using leather conditioner with atom wax on belts and like the way it can be buffed out when dry. I changed out my air brush and put some of the latter on. I'll see how it looks in a few minutes. Thanks again for the encouragement and critiques.

Thanks for the critique. I keep my nails cut short, but I think my main problem is not having the proper tools to mold and bone with. Most of the blemishes you see on the holster were there before I started. I used some cheap leather to practice with so I didn't do ALL of the things you mentioned to my Herman Oak! I did make a few slips with my tools that I was using. Do you, or anyone else have some tools to recommend or some pictures of homemade tools? Sounds like I need to wear surgical gloves when I get out the Herman Oak! I've already done a second one and dyed it with my vinegaroon. I'll post a couple of pictures of it tomorrow. Each practice one I do, I learn from it. I'm gonna try a pancake next or maybe a pocket holster for the LCP I just got. Keep the suggestions coming, I appreciate the help.

That's cool! Now you got me thinking about something similar for my Road King, except I have one of the old school HD seat pans and a big chrome seat rail. That'd be nice if I could pull that off. Yours looks like it came that way. Nice leather on the rear fender too.

How long does it get dunked in the baking soda wash? I wonder if it works as good as the vinegaroon? Heck, I'll just make up a barrel of rusty water!

"Well, as to the 2" wide belt, I don't think it will fit through standard Levi's belt loops. " My bad. I misread that as 3" for some reason! I was thinking, dang that's a wide belt!

Thanks to everyone for the advice and comments. The vinegaroon I'm using now, set for about 2 months before I ever used it the first time. I added steel wool to it until it stopped dissolving, then let it set a couple more weeks before straining it and using. Even when mine was first used, it turned the leather grey. I'm thinking it might have something to do with how the leather was tanned. I've only used it on Tandy leather so far, but I'm curious as to how it will work with the Herman Oak I have. I'll post results here when I try it. On Adam's Leatherworks, Eric talks about heating it up to the temp of warm tap water, I think was the way he described it. http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/2012/08/26/vinegaroon-a-k-a-vinegar-black/ Will Ghormley talks about heating up his "Rust Barrel" and actually has it sitting on a homemade fire pit. I think Will is using just water and steel, no mention of vinegar. Here's his how to:http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html I have used it on other projects but have never used the baking soda wash afterwards. Does it make it darker? Does it neutralize the vinegar smell? I haven't noticed any problems with the leather I've used it on.

Thanks for the suggestions. Any suggestions for increasing the strength of my vinegaroon? Mine still has a vinegar smell to it. I made a second batch and kept putting steel wool in it till it stopped dissolving and still smelled like vinegar too. Difference was it keeps getting brown milky/cloudy looking even after multiple filtering. The brown mostly settles in the bottom. I read that heating it would start it working again, but just heat to like hot tap water, not boiling. As for the molding. You're correct, I was in a hurry and started when it was pretty wet.

Hey Grump! I like the wide belt. Couple of questions. How does it fit through regular jeans belt loops? I guess most holster belt loops would be too small also. Then again, that's what it's all about....a custom belt requires a custom holster! I'm assuming that this belt was intended to go through belt loops on pants. Or is it to wear over the top of your pants/belt and have a holster slide over it like a police duty rig? You know, the roller buckle isn't as fancy as some other buckles, but it sure has to be a lot easier to use on thicker, wider belts. I've got some smaller roller buckles, but I'm going to get some wider ones to try on my gun belts. Can't wait to make a new double thick belt with nice stitching from my NEW Cobra machine!

I agree with the border around the tip of the billet. That's the way I do mine. I agree that it looks like you used something stamped out with a roller when you don't take it around the tip. I really like the meander pattern. I've never done a meander pattern and don't even have a tool for it. I see one in my near future. It just has a cool look. Also like the stitch line at 1/8". I've also seen a double stitch line that looks good but that leaves less space for tooling.

" I saw that on his video and have been adding dish soap ever since. And that Tandy leather is by far the worst to mold and it doesn't retain like the HO does. " That's good to know. I'm looking forward to working with the HO!

I was actually talking about the other type revolver where the cylinder actually flops out of the frame on the left side of the gun. But I think I'd still feel more comfortable rotating the cylinder with my left hand while inserting bullets with my right. Basically like you're showing. Maybe we'll hear from some of those cowboy action shooters!

Good eye! I meant to mention that in my first post but forgot about it. Can I get it out, yes. Would it be better with a little more clearance, yes. That will be one of the changes I make on the next one. I think one more out of the cheap leather, then I should be ready for the Herman Oak. You know, in retrospect, the boning and molding was one of the hardest things to do. I don't think I let the leather get wet enough. Next time I'll put a few drops of Dawn in the water. I saw that in Eric's video, but I got in a hurry and forgot it. He made it look so easy. I need to make a checklist of things to do until I get used to everything! I've actually done that on some of the upholstery items I make. If you do something out of order, you have to rip out stitches and do it over.

Thanks. I'm anxious to see how the retention will be in the morning. I was planning on just using a dauber to put some neatsfoot on it. I was scared that the neatsfoot would soften it too much and affect the retention, at least that's what I'd read somewhere.

When I was taught to shoot and reload a revolver, i was shown to open the cylinder, holding it in my left hand with my middle and ring finger going through the frame and wrapped around the cylinder, load with my right hand. But, I know the single action cowboy rigs are different. The ones I've seen, the cylinder doesn't open up, it just rotates, and I think I would probably load it like the old grump said. Glad he brought that up. Something to think about. The video I have from John Bianchi shows putting 30 loops centered across the back. I guess he's going for the most rounds possible. Watching old Westerns, I've seen them offset to one side and all the way across the back. Sounds like some of it may be personal preference and what the end use will be.

Thanks. How long do you let them dry? Is there something you look for when it's dry? I laid out the size and shape of the basketweave on another piece of leather and practiced on it first since it's been a while since I did a basketweave. It looked really good, and I got to use my new mauls from The Bearman. I hate that I messed up the basketweave on the final piece when I was trying to fit the belt through the loops. I've got to figure out how big to make my loops for a 1/4" thick 1 1/2" belt. I guess I can take a scrap piece and put some different size holes and just experiment. Duh, I should've done tht first! Well, that's why I practiced on some cheap leather first. I still have two brand new pieces of Herman Oak waiting on me!

Thanks to Eric at Adams Leatherworks, http://www.adamsleat...m/hows-it-made/ I tackled my first holster. I wanted something for my XD .40 SubCompact, and I liked the looks of the Avenger style. This is my first holster with the pattern I made, so I used some cheap 7/9 oz leather I got from Tandy to test the pattern. Didn't want my very first one to be too plain Jane, so I did some quick basketweave on the reinforcement piece. It's still drying, but I wanted to get some comments/suggestion from the PRO's on here. Everyone has already been a BIG help. I've been lurking and learning for a while! This first picture shows it on my old wore out FD duty belt. A new belt is next. I quickly found out that it wouldn't fit on a 1/4" thick, heavy 1 1/2" gun belt. I made a short piece to form the loops and it wouldn't fit. (Picture at bottom.) I used a 3/8" hole punch spaced just barely over 1 1/2", then cut the leather out between it. I WILL be buying a wide chisel to use next! I think if I just space the holes out about another 1/4", it should work about right. What kind of spacing and hole sizes are you guys using? This picture shows a little closer. I could stand to move the stitch line just a bit closer to the trigger guard. You may be able to tell in this picture that I mashed down the detail in my basketweave trying to get the thicker belt through the loops. Another angle. I think I've got enough cant. It also looks like it should pull in pretty close to the body. I'll see after it dries over night. And here's a picture of the backside. My plans were to vinegaroon this holster. I did a sample piece of leather that had already been sewn to see if it affected the color of the stitching. No change at all. The thing about vinegaroon is that until I put some oil on it, it's just grey. It seems that most don't oil molded holsters....is that true? If so, what do you recommend to get the leather a nice dark black? I was going to try some Bag Kote for a finish coat over the vinegaroon. If I air brush that on, will it turn it black? How long does it need to dry? Should I put it in the oven or will it air dry enough in about 2 days? And should I leave the gun in it till it's completely dry? Man, so many questions! When I started doing leatherwork, I didn't realize it could be so involved. Here's a picture of the test piece I did with vinegaroon. It's a piece I was practicing sewing on. If you look at the bottom edge you can see how much darker it is. I took my finger and just rubbed a touch of neatsfoot oil on it. OK, give me your thoughts!

Well after a lengthy reply and then losing it when my power went out! Just check out this link for the Sneaky Pete. http://www.sneakypeteholsters.com/prod_dtls.php?product_id=13