Bobby hdflame

Dave, This was really a great seat! How did you originally lay out your hole pattern? How did you space the holes and allow for overhang around the edges? How thick, and where do you get your foam? Density? I love reading your seat projects. Great write up, and thanks for taking the time to share! What was the ratio of Lexol to water?

I like the color!

OK, Thanks. I thought maybe from reading your post it was something easy. That Cobra looks like a nice machine.

Wiz, I have the same problem with my Highlead, but only when using a leather point needle. I figured it was just because it was a sharp point. I see other people using leather machines backstitch with no problems, so I'm wondering if I've got something a little out of time. My back stitching seems to be just a little off center of the hole. How do you check and adjust reverse timing. Maybe that's my problem. I use a #22 leather point needle with #138 thread and a #24 with #207. Both threads are bonded poly. I've just started leaving a long tail of thread when I get through with a project and use a hand needle to backstitch about 4 stitches and then tie off with a knot on the bottom. This is just too time consuming. Is there a better way? Thanks.

I have a Highlead GC0618-1SC and have been using it for a couple of years with no problems. It would sew what you're talking about with no problems. It is now on sale where I got mine: http://store.keysew.com/highlead-gc128-b-d3-with-assembled-stand If I were specializing in belts, I would get a roller edge guide. It would really work good for belts, guitar straps, or rifle slings. The one I have flips out of the way when I'm not using it, and I paid less than $10 for it. I think it was about 6 or 7 bucks. Money well spent. There are a lot of machines that will do what you want, I just thought I'd let you know what I have. I bought mine after reading a lot of good reviews on that machine over on the upholstery forum. http://get-up-and-go.com/upholstery-forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=usopakrknjui5udcqmpg23igd6&board=1.0 Do a search on different machines that you're interested in and you'll find a lot of different suggestions. Most good compound feed walking foot machines will work on the weight of material you're talking about. I'm sewing some heavier weight latigo 9/10 oz harness leather with mine now. It will sew it, but really isn't designed to. I've got a Cobra Class 4 on order now. Can't wait! Good luck.

OK, I thought maybe there was some special meaning and that was why they wanted it on the seat. Look forward to seeing it finished.

That's a cool design. Now that I know what it SAYS, what does it MEAN? Look forward to the completion!

I buy a lot of thread from the Thread Exchange. I live in NC so I usually have it in 1-2 days of my order. Good selection and prices, nice to deal with. I haven't ordered from the other sources yet.

I just bought a drill press from HF and also ordered a new cocobolo edger from Spinner last night. He sent me an email and said it would ship on Wednesday! Can't wait to actually have a good tool to finish my edges. It just makes the project look so much more finished when you finish the edges the right way! I'll post a review when I've used it.

Wow, lot's of backgrounding! Did you draw that pattern? Very nice.

I'll add some more pics of the project I'm working on later. I just wanted to add that I forgot to give it the baking soda neutralizer wash until after it was completely dry, so I just skipped it. I'll see what happens. Has anyone not done a wash? How did it affect the leather, if any? I put a couple of good coats of neats foot oil on both side. It seemed to soak it up pretty good. Do you reach a point of adding too much neats foot oil? Especially if you're putting an acrylic sealer over it? I have just about soaked leather items with neats foot oil in the past, like horse tack and I would think that would affect the application of a top coat. Tack items were just oiled so I haven't anything to compare to. BTW, the 'roon did a good thorough job of dyeing all the way through the leather. I had to trim a piece and it was solid black all the way.

My vinegaroon is finished and I dyed my first piece of leather with it. It is BLACK! I wound up using a third piece of steel wool. When it was almost completely dissolved you could see through the jar. Every day or two I'd shake it up, then it would clear back up as it settled out. After I added the third piece of steel wool, and it was almost dissolved I shook it up one more time. But this time it didn't clear back up. I figured that meant that it was saturated with the steel wool and it was finished. I used coffee filters and filtered it twice. It was still very dark in the jar, but more of a dark vinegar look in the top of the lid... I used a brush and dyed a piece of leather that had basketweave on it. Took two coats front and back, but it got really dark black. I read in another thread that someone had dyed a belt for a friend and that when they sweated, some of the black came off on them. I remember someone else saying that the 'roon wouldn't turn your skin black because it only reacted with the tannins in the leather, well...... as I was dyeing the leather some of the black turned the paper towel black.... ...and got just a tinge on my fingers. I tried taking a picture of my fingers, but you can hardly see it. I'm not sure what it'll do after it completely dries, but just wanted you to know that it is possible for some of the black to transfer from the leather to other items. Sweat could possibly transfer it to your skin. Not sure how it will react after it thoroughly dries and is sealed with a top finish. It took about two weeks total for it to completely dissolve 3 pieces of steel wool. Can anyone else share their experiences?

They look cool............but, what's a bouncer? Bobby

What kind of metal do you use? Does the two steel wool pads I used sound like enough for one quart? From what I've read, it sounds like you want to take the solution to the point of saturation. If all of the metal dissolves, then you want to add more, is that correct? I read that by taking it to where all of the metal won't dissolve, that it lessens the smell of the vinegar. I think that next time I'll go buy some 0000 steel wool. I'm thinking the finer wool will make the process a lot quicker. Bobby

I'd been wanting to try making some Vinegaroon ever since reading a "How-To" on here. I thought I'd share the progress as I went, thereby getting any tips from experienced people as I go. I added 2 SOS pads to a quart plastic jar with plastic lid. Figured that would be better than having a metal lid that would rust and leak later on. One of the pads had been used for doing dishes, the soap was depleted. I was going to wait till I used up another one but decided not to wait. I took the second one and washed the soap out with warm water and rinsed thoroughly. I filled the jar up with cider vinegar and put the lid on loosely. Here's pics of day one....any suggestions so far? Before I could finish this post, the steel wool had already collected enough bubbles in it to float to the top of the jar! For those of you that use vinegaroon on a regular basis, how much do you make at a time? Can I just use a sponge to apply it to the leather or does it really need to be completely submerged, if so, for how long? I saw a video where the guy submerged a gun holster in what he called "The Rust Barrell". I'll have to go back and watch, but I think all he had in it was metal and water. Bobby

L@@KS good! I haven't tried my hand at a holster yet, but I'm itching to make a new one for my Springfield. I really like your stingray. I bought two stingray hides at Tandy when they were on sale for about $15 a piece. I'd like to make a IWB, but I hate to hide such beautiful leather! I haven't tried cutting or sewing it yet, but everybody seems to agree about the stingray being a PIA to work with. You did a good job! Bobby

BRL, That holster picture in your signature line is a beautiful color. Is that the mahogany you were talking about? I'd love to see a bigger pic of it. Where do you get the Angelus dye? Thanks, Bobby

Hey Dan, I missed something. Not sure which post you're answering to?? Bobby

I'd be interested. Send me an email if you come up with a date. I work at the fire dept. and also teach at two community colleges myself, so the more lead time I've got, the easier it will be to plan on attending the class. Bobby hdflame at windstream.net

Just wondering if the buffing worked? Bobby

Particle, I've watched 3 videos by John Bianchi. I thought all 3 were good videos with lot's of info. I also noticed him saying you couldn't put too much oil in the leather. I think you're right about limiting oil on molded holsters. They wouldn't hold the detail if the leather was too soft. Did you notice the pronunciation of his last name? I had been saying his name wrong for years! Bobby

I live in Sanford, NC and was going to check it out but the link didn't work. Bobby

Beautiful holster! Where did the shark come from? What's a "LW Operator"? Bobby

Very nice work! I hope my first knife sheath will turn out that good. I like the background stamping. It makes it look kinda rustic and rugged. Nice looking knife too. Bobby

I love the sheath! Very nice attention to detail in your overall finish. The only thing I may have done a little different is shorten the sheath just a bit. With such a beautiful knife handle, it's a shame to cover it up....even if it is with such NICE leatherwork! Can't wait to see more of your work, Bobby