Bobby hdflame

That is cool. I saw that posted somewhere about a year ago. I saved the picture cause I might just try making one of those. It'd look cool on my Road King and I bet it may deter some of those cagers cutting you off in traffic!

Bob, One thing I forgot to mention is you really need some forward pegs or what some call highway pegs on your GW. I have them on my Road King, mounted to the engine guard or crash bars. There are some really nice ones for GW's that are adjustable. 99% of my riding I have one or both feet on my highway pegs. Along with a backrest, which is another must for long hauls, it's like riding in your recliner. If you get your feet up and legs out, you'll be surprised at how much better you'll like the stock seat. This is something like I'm talking about. https://www.denniskirk.com/kuryakyn/ergo-ii-cruise-mounts-w-switchblade-pegs.p496289.prd/496289.sku These are really nice and look like they're made for the GW. If this is your first GW, check out one of the GW forums. Try the Delphi Forums.

I've bought their Multi/Rebounded-Mixed Foambut I prefer the high quality neoprene for a seat base. It's quite a bit firmer. bustedlifter makes some sweet seats using the inner tube. I haven't tried one of those but looks like it would give good support. I think he just uses the tube without any foam?? Maybe he'll post a picture of his method....pretty neat!

I'd recommend starting out with a base of HD neoprene foam with a top layer of medium density memory foam. The neoprene is not as hard to find as a good grade memory foam that can be used on a motorcycle seat. JoAnn's and other discount type sewing supplies will not have foam of the grade you need for a motorcycle seat. You'll need at least 2" of neoprene for a base with about 1" of memory on top. Depending on how high the seat needs to be, add or subtract the neoprene to get you where you want but stick with at least 1" of memory for the best comfort. You can shape the foam by sanding with a high speed sander and/or a rasp like is used in body work. Be careful, you can go too far very quick. Don't get the regular, you want the "High Quality" neoprene. http://www.foamforyou.com/neoprene.htm or http://www.foambymail.com/NE.html I searched for a long time before finding a supplier of the kind of memory foam that I needed. Mattress topper memory foam is too soft. These people are very nice and helpful. http://sunmatecushio...eSelection.html Here's where to get your gel. http://www.shocktec.com/products1.html I deal a lot with the last two links I posted. Both places are really helpful. Call them and ask questions. They are both familiar with building motorcycle seats. Personally, I'd build the base out of high quality neoprene, add a gel pad inset flush in the seat area, then cover it with medium weight memory foam. The memory foam density is determined by the weight of the rider. Sunmate has a chart for determining which foam you need. Use contact cement to glue the neoprene to the seat pan and the memory to the neoprene. If you inset a gel pad in the neoprene you won't need to glue it. Hope this helps. It took me a couple of years to find these suppliers, and they're located right here in NC!

Thanks a bunch! I'm going to go watch them.

Would you happen to have a link to the Chief's lacing videos that you're referring to?

Well, I didn't see your first seat pictures, but this one looks great! I looked at the lacing, but I don't see anything wrong with it. The only suggestion I could make is maybe use a pear shader to give a little shading and depth to your stamping/carving. Great job!

I've got a couple of seat pans that I want to try it on, but I also make gear for Ural motorcycles and I'm too backed up to try a seat right now. That'll be a project when I get caught up on orders!

I don't see a link to the site you're talking about???

Thanks!

Does anyone have a link to the BK beveler? I looked on his site but couldn't find it.

I'd be interested in this too.

I bought one of the Tandy Damascus knives about a year ago. What kind of advice did you get as why not to buy it? My handle is a little bit loose, but I spent so much time putting a razor sharp edge on it that I decided to live with it. It's hardly noticeable anyway. It's pretty much the only knife I use. I got it on sale, so I'm pretty happy with what I paid for it. I get wholesale prices on everything from them too. There was a thread on round knives that I was looking at last week. There was a couple of custom round knife makers that were recommended but I can't remember which ones now. I'll see if I can find it. I went back and looked and it was actually the pinned thread at the top of this forum. Bruce Johnson seemed to be a popular name for a maker. I didn't see a link for him, but you'll probably see it if you read that thread.

OK, got it. I thought maybe there was some hidden meaning that I was missing!

That makes sense attaching the bottom and leaving the top bigger. That allows for fitting over the foam rubber padding. I'm gonna try that! Thanks for the idea.

The seat looks great. What's the significance of the artwork?

I think you'll like it for the money. I was surprised at how sharp one end was on it when I received it. The one end has a very small ball end but the other end is almost as sharp as a pencil. I gues it's needed for really fine detail.

I've been using a little cheap one that came in a set I got from Tandy years ago. I just ordered a new one last week from Tandy because it was on sale. It's the one with the rubber grip on it. I haven't used it yet, but it looks like it will be much more comfortable. This is the one I just got: https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8039-06.aspx Retail price is $19.99 but I get the wholesale price which was $8.99 on sale. I also bought 2 rolls of tracing film which was also on sale.

It doesn't look like you needed to adjust anything on that one! It looks awesome! Can't wait to see it when you add color.

Thanks to everybody for making suggestions and comments. I've totally gone in a different path than from the way this thread started! I decided to order 2 mauls from Ed the Bear Man, one in 18 oz. and one in 22 oz. I can't wait to hear back from him. I'll post some pictures when I get them. He said it'd be several weeks...he's backed up like me! Now, off this computer and back to work. This is my weekend off from the fire station but I stayed up till after midnight last night and been working most of the day today (Sunday).

Thanks Scott. It looked like a USMC emblem in the picture. It was kinda small on my laptop. I also have a couple of FF challenge coins if I can find them! Thanks for the idea.

Chris, I appreciate yours, and everyone else opinions. I am still relatively new to leatherwork. I actually do more sewing than leather right now but I expect that to equal out more when I get my new Cobra from Steve. I was thinking about what you said about straight and tapered. I'm trying to understand about the dynamics without ever having used one. Couldn't you get the same lateral glancing with a straight maul if you were not lined up properly? I was thinking on the tapered just so I didn't have to hold my arm as high. I figured the older I get, the easier it would be to use. Anyone else have thoughts on tapered and straight?

Thanks for your insight. I've decided to order from Bear. Now I just have to decide on what weights. I think I'm getting 2, along with one of his custom stands. Man, are they good looking mauls! Anybody else have a preference on weights?

Those are nice. Did you supply the military pieces for the ends?

Thanks. I also posted this in the tool forum. Looks like I found the place to get my maul, now I just have to decide on which one! The Bear Man really makes some nice mauls. I'll be ordering a couple of custom mauls from him. Take a look at some of what he makes here. http://tinyurl.com/BearMauls His basic mauls start at $75 and go to just over $100 for a super duper custom. I think that's a good deal for such quality work!