Bobby hdflame

I love the sheath! Very nice attention to detail in your overall finish. The only thing I may have done a little different is shorten the sheath just a bit. With such a beautiful knife handle, it's a shame to cover it up....even if it is with such NICE leatherwork! Can't wait to see more of your work, Bobby

That turned out very nice! Makes me want to make one for mine. Did you have to widen your belt keeper straps or just put in the notch? Since I have the same basic model (longer barrel) with Laser Grips, I'm wondering if there should be a thin piece of leather added over the notch in order to cover and protect the laser sight? I wonder how the sight will rub against the inside of the pants since it's IWB? What do you think? Bobby

Just curious, what would a holster like that sell for....you said you'd ask more next time? Bobby

My machine will only sew up to 207. I ordered 1 roll of Black and 1 of White today....that's as big as I can go until I get a heavier machine. Bobby

Tony, That is a beautiful holster! What size thread did you use?

Tony, I recently bought some stingray myself. I was in the Tandy store when it was on sale, so I bought 2 small pieces to use. I haven't decided what to use it for yet, but I was wondering how it sewed, or maybe you just glued it for the inlay? I have a walking foot machine and was curious how the needle penetrated it. Also how did it cut? What did you use to cut it with? The little bumps on top feel like little bony pieces and I hate to use my good upholstery shears on it! Looking forward to see some pics! Thanks, Bobby

Thanks to all of the responses, suggestions, and links. The first belts and radio straps I made, I didn't rub them with a rag to remove any of the residual dye left on the surface. I figured that putting 3 coats of Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax would have been sufficient......guess not. I have not worn it on a white shirt since applying an additional 3 coats of super sheen on the bottom side. (The side that would be against my shirt.) I also didn't apply any neatsfoot oil, Lexol, or other leather conditioner before sealing. I did this on the recommendation of the manager from the Tandy Store, and truthfully, I've always put some kind of conditioner on my leather items. The strap is very stiff. When I mentioned this to him, his answer was that you want new leather to have that stiff "New Leather" feel.I don't really agree with that, so after reading about using the vinegaroon and using different conditioners, I decided to use some neatsfoot oil on the straps I'm currently working on. I was kinda scared to apply the oil to the top side where I've painted with acrylic paint, so I applied a couple of coats with a piece of cotton rag on the bottom. I've got it laying out in the sun now, and plan on giving it 24 hours before dyeing. After dyeing, I'll give it another 24 hours before applying my top coat. Does this sound consistent with when to apply the oil/Lexol treatment in relation to the timeline of staining and top coat? I also plan on getting some Resolene to try, and making myself a batch of vinegaroon. I'll post some pics and give you my results when I finish these two straps. Thanks for all of the help. Bobby

I have a Springfield 1911 Champion with Crimson Trace sights. Mine is full size, but I like the looks of your holster. Why don't you just make your leather holding the snaps a little wider and space the snaps far enough apart to get them out of the way of the laser? Then you could notch the leather just like you talked about....or maybe that IS how you were going to address the snap problem. I'll be interested to see how you address this. I may make one for myself. Bobby

Thanks for the answers and detailed instructions! I really appreciate it. I was going to ask about a second coat of resolene. Also, instead of the neutral shoe polish, could I rub some of the Aussie wax I got from Tandy into the leather? I didn't ask this as a part of the original question, but as you can see, I used some Eco-flo Cova Color to paint the letters on the leather. In the section where I stamped the leather with the letters, I painted the background with the black cova color too. I thought it might be easier than trying to use the dye around the letters and risk the chance of bleeding into the letter. Can I also use the Resolene over the Cova Color, or should I stick with the super sheen on the top side where the acrylic paint is at? On the top and bottom side, I originally used Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax..... 3 coats, using the heat gun to assist in drying. That seemed to make the Cova Colors have little hairline cracks. Hard to see, but they are there. After that, and after the black came off on my shirt, I decided to use the super sheen. I am also bad about using my heat gun to hurry along the drying process. I guess I need to just slow down and allow my dyeing and painting to dry over night! Bobby

I am making some straps that will hold a walkie talkie when on duty. The strap will go across one shoulder like a rifle sling. When wearing a white shirt in uniform, I have had the black dye come off on my shirt. I have put super sheen on it...several coats. Any suggestions, other than lining with undyed/natural leather? Thanks, Bobby

Rusty, I assume you are talking about the welt on the edges where the sides and bottom meets. I'm not sure exactly how your saddlebags are put together, but I would use some foam welt cord and a welting foot on a walking foot upholstery sewing machine. Cut a piece of leather approximately 1 1/2" wide, long enough to go around your edges. Use this to make your welt. You will have to sew four layers together at the same time when you put it together. That's why you need a compound feed walking foot machine. Do a search on You Tube for how to make "Welt" and you should find some videos that will help. I found one for you on Sailrite's free videos: http://www.sailrite.com/Make-Your-Own-Piping-Cord-Video This shows using the foam welt with Sunbrella material. It would be the same with leather. They say to cut the material 1.25", but I cut mine 1.5 to 1 5/8". It depends on what size welt I'm using. You can also buy pre-made welt out of colored plastic that is used in automotive upholstery. Welt cord http://www.sailrite.com/Piping-Cord-5-32 Another option is just sew it together without the welt. You could make a flat felled seam instead. http://www.sailrite.com/Seam-Construction-Video http://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-a-Semi-Flat-Felled-Seam-Online-Streaming-Video Hope this helps! Bobby

Sticky, There is a place here in NC that makes the Gel at a reasonable price. Kemmler Products Inc. http://www.shocktec.com/ I have a business account set up with them. When I called, they were very helpful on the phone. You can buy gel by the roll or half roll much cheaper than just the little pieces you get for a single seat. Prices on their site is retail, you'll get better prices with a commercial account. Here's the info: SHOCKtec by the ROLLSHOCKtec Air2Gel and Air2Gel HD come in 24"x 60" Full Roll (10 sq. ft), & 12"x 60" 1/2 Roll (5 sq. ft). All prices are suggested retail. Call for pricing on orders over 10 Sq. ft. <br style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; ">Wholesaler and Distributor prices on larger roll sizes are available on request. SHOCKtec Air2Gel is for HIGH impact and MAXIMUM protection and is extremely lightweight.<br style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; ">Thickness Full Roll Price 1/2 Roll Price <br style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; ">1/8" $33.20 $16.60<br style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; ">1/4" $67.20 $33.60<br style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; ">3/8" $101.20 $50.60 bustedlifter, That is a cool idea on the seat. Did you come up with it? Do you use any foam around the voids where the inner tube doesn't cover, or just the tube between the leather? Thanks, Bobby

Can you share any info on where to get the rubber air bladder from? Thanks, Bobby

I've got a holster making video by John Bianchi. He shows how he made one just like it. I remembered that I have an electric motor from an old piece of equipment that I no longer use. I'm going to make my own with it. John Bianchi used round pieces cut from 100% wool saddle pads to make the burnisher.

I've seen some borders done with a Tandy Border Stamp (D445 Craftool Border Stamp). Does anyone have any how to pictures of how to lay this out to get nice even borders. I think the pattern I'm referring to is called the "Meandering Stamp". It looks like it curves back and forth kinda like a snake around the edge. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Leather-Stamps/Border-Leather-Stamps/6445-00.aspx The other question I have is on using a basket weave stamp on a belt that looks like an arrow head design down the middle. I can get the look by putting the basket weave on an angle, but it's hard to get the proper spacing without knowing how it should be started. X514 Craftool Basketweave Stamp http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Leather-Stamps/Basketweave-Leather-Stamps/6514-00.aspx I hope I'm making sense! Thanks, Bobby

WOW! The color really makes it POP! What kind of dye and how did you apply it? Thanks for sharing. Bobby

WildRose, Thanks for the heads up, I'll check out your thread! King's X, I've never really been on FaceBook very much, but I'll check out your FaceBook page. Do you have a link? I'm sure others on here would love to see it as well. Thanks for offering. Bobby

Thanks for the suggestions! My wife got her a cover from Amazon when she bought the Kindle. That gives me some time to think of something special, maybe for her birthday. I've been looking on here to get some ideas. Bobby

Rob, I'm also interested in making some chaps, so I started gathering some info you might be interested in. I tried uploading a Word file, but the forum won't let me. I uploaded a picture I found that should help. If you send me your email, I'll forward you the other info if you want it. Be sure to post some pics when you're finished. The inlays and custom stuff sound cool. I'm thinking about adding some tooling, not sure what else....maybe some flame appliqués. Bobby Rob, I'm also interested in making some chaps, so I started gathering some info you might be interested in. I tried uploading a Word file, but the forum won't let me. I uploaded a picture I found that should help. If you send me your email, I'll forward you the other info if you want it. Be sure to post some pics when you're finished. The inlays and custom stuff sound cool. I'm thinking about adding some tooling, not sure what else....maybe some flame appliqués. Bobby

Try looking at these links. http://www.bbarbwholesale.com/chaps-stock-motorcycle-chaps-gear-c-3_81.html http://www.sewingwithleather.com/chaps.htm I just bought some leather on sale and thought about making a pair for my wife. I have some to go by for ideas, but will probably just fit them to her to make the pattern. I'd hate to screw up the leather! Bobby

Rob, I haven't looked at the actual patterns, but I saw a pack of motorcycle patterns in Tandy. Chaps was one of the patterns......well, I was going to give you the link, but the pattern pack at Tandy doesn't have chaps. I only saw western chaps. I know I've seen them. Try a Google search. Bobby

Thanks for the info. I'll check on prices, but it's sounding like it may be just as cheap and quick to buy the fantastic wheel and wax on eBay. Bobby

Where did you find the wool felt wheel? Bobby

Looking at that, I don't see why you couldn't just take a bolt, cut a stack of canvas or felt with a round die cutter, stack them together between two nuts and flat washers, and tighten. Then cut off the bolt head, add collette for the motor shaft or just chuck up in the drill press. Then all you'd need is your favorite edge dressing. I think I may try making one.