mike59

Hello Johanna, I have a website I would like to transfer to your service. Please give me a number I can reach you at, and a convenient time to do so. Thanks Mike

Unfortunately, it seems that the rule of thumb has become, " To Hell with Quality,...Get the money and run"! I suppose I shouldn't complain, It helps my bottom line doing repairs. Just seems like a shame.

You Got Me! If I'm not mistaken, didn't you ask some time back about "Working with Moose"? It seems that I gave you some big windy reply about "Speed Reading", and the pitfalls of such practices. Whether your story here is absolutely, as it occurred, or spiced with some embellishments,....I love it!! Touche!

In my opinion, it is real leather. The close-up photo shows not only the clamp marks from the tannery, but the grain fibers on the edge. I think it safe to say you weren't skunked.

I am confused as to what you are needing specifically? Perhaps you could elaborate more, using the same amount of effort which you put into blasting us for not responding to something we are unsure of. Try Again!

Hi Frank, when you say, "Round edge edgers, what do you mean?

This Leatherworker site is so full of information. The archived topics that are available to the beginner, as well as those who have been around awhile is priceless. To even think that one should take for granted the efforts of those who have organized, and contribute the information on a daily basis without giving thought to the time commitment, and cost of such an undertaking should not be taken for granted. I don't think a mandatory yearly usage fee would at all be out of line,....perhaps $15.00 per year would be affordable to every user? Those who contribute tutorials, and advise on a regular basis should be provided lifetime memberships, as well as a free banner for their efforts... Just my opinion. The money this site saves us in wasted material, supplies that don't work for a particular project, etc., will cover the cost of the annual membership many times over. I see this resource as another of my tools which I use regularly to run my shop more effectively. I know times are hard and money tight, but I would hate to one day find the "Out Of Business" sign on the door for lack of funding.

Very Nice Job!

Whoa! That picture turned out really big,...sorry about that. I use it straight from the bottle, just shake it up as it will seperate some from sitting. I put it on with a wool scrap, two or three coats with about an hour in between. if you use it on antiqued pieces, he first application needs to be put on with very little pressure applied. It dries pretty fast as long as the humidity is normal. Good luck!

This is a black buscadero I made and finished with Bag-Kote..

Mornin' Clay, I use Fiebing's Bag-Kote for the reasons you stated. I like the low satin finish it provides, as well as just a hint of mellow, non polished look.

I am interested in hearing your thoughts and practices on layering ground seat pieces to maintain a close contact seat. Do you leave out one layer, use lighter weight pieces to begin with, or use all four pieces and skive heavily in the cantle and pocket area to maintain the deep pocket? I would be very interested in all responses. Mike

I use the dremel tool,...works every time!

I have been under the impression that you do not want to exceed 1750 rpm on a motorized burnisher as it will burn the leather?

I haven't dealt with every supplier, but I have with a lot of them, and in my opinion, SPRINGFIELD LEATHER is by far the most couteous, helpful group of people I've ever dealt with, period! I believe they forgot more about real customer service than others ever knew, or cared about.

Here's what I've learned and works every time. For double cap rivets,...forget the cheap rivet setter I think you're using to set the cap,....use your hammer and anvil. If you have trouble striking the cap dead center, practice with your hammer a few times first. If the small rivets are too short, and the large are too long, use the medium rivets. I use them on most applications, and if you're worried about them holding,...try taking one out without damaging the project,...it ain't easy.

Will, I'm thinking possibly Rod Nichols would be the one to contact about the trees. Mike

If you are seriously considering marketing these, please put me down for one. Thanks, Mike Massey

Simon, Use a long straight edge and scribe a line the length of your side of latigo (or whatever hide you're using) from the top along the length of the back, or, along the bottom (belly) depending on the strap thickness you need. You will now have a straight edge to work from with your strap cutter. When you have cut the strap material you need, roll the side up to store it. Depending on the amount, or length of strap you have use for regularly, I would always cut the strap full length of the side, use what you need and store the remainder for the next project that requires that width of strap.

OKAY!!! I'll Bite....sign me up too!

Daniel, Thanks for this info. I wish I'd have had this information long ago. Mike

Russ, The best thing for you is to take out the bobbin and replace it with a new full one. I'm not sure why, but sometimes the thread gets twisted, especially if you are making a few 180 degree turns and this may occur. Try it and see if you are having the same problem. Mike