mike59

Hello Rufus, If you are wanting to end up with a rich oil tan look to the rough out, try this. On a scrap piece of the same leather you used for the saddle, use Fiebing's Pro Oil Saddle Tan Dye reduced 20% with Fiebing's Leather Dye Reducer. Apply it with a wide spray nozzle with an airbrush or one of the PREVAIL SPRAYERS. You want to hold the sprayer about six inches from the leather and move quickly in even passes overlapping just a bit. Let it sit overnight and then apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil. After the oil sets in it will give you a nice rich oil finish. This process works great on the hair side as well giving the piece a rich hand rubbed oil finish. Hope this helps you out some. Hello Rufus, If you are wanting to end up with a rich oil tan look to the rough out, try this. On a scrap piece of the same leather you used for the saddle, use Fiebing's Pro Oil Saddle Tan Dye reduced 20% with Fiebing's Leather Dye Reducer. Apply it with a wide spray nozzle with an airbrush or one of the PREVAIL SPRAYERS. You want to hold the sprayer about six inches from the leather and move quickly in even passes overlapping just a bit. Let it sit overnight and then apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil. After the oil sets in it will give you a nice rich oil finish. This process works great on the hair side as well giving the piece a rich hand rubbed oil finish. Hope this helps you out some.

Good luck with that Randy. I don't know what that stuff is, but I would not call it dye. It goes on like water and takes many, many coats to get simulated white. To my knowledge, there is no such thing as white dye. There is a white shoe polish that nurses used to put on their shoes, but it rubs off in a short period of time. A few coats of thinned white acrylic paint is your best bet, just be sure to thin it first and let each coat dry.

I've had nothing but frustration from Artisan for the past 2-3 years. I have 2 of their stitchers and their 20 inch splitter. They don't return phone calls, don't have answers to questions, etc. Very unprofessional.

Do you know who bought Hidecrafter, their contact info, etc.?

The turn back edger will be your best bet, hands down.

While it's not from the 1800's, it does have some value as a working piece. Depending on how stable it is, not needing to be re-built, you should be able to sell it for a minimum of fifty dollars.

I have a collection of knives that I have acquired over the years for my shop. I use the term collection now because after having purchased Terry's knives, that's what the others have become and will never be used again by me. When you buy a knife from Terry you not only get the best knife money can buy, but an education about the care of them, the engineering and content of them, as well as a maker most willing to listen to your needs and concerns about your purchase and what he can provide. I'm not discounting the other makers, just relating the options and craftsmanship of Terry's product.

Great Information!! Thanks Chuck!

You need a lace cutter like the Aussie lace cutter, or innovate. I assume you are talking about width, not thickness?

If I just saw the one you are talking about,....That rascal is just plain nasty!....And for $95.00???

In Other Words......Yer Screwed!!

I just purchased a heavy split from Tandy,...4-5 oz. for making two sets of welders chaps. They still carry it.

Hello TJ,...If I'm reading you correctly, I believe you have your tool backwards. The "Toe" needs to go in the cut line, while the heel compresses the leather away from the cut.

Leg chaps, or, "Leggings", have been made for years that have a loop at the top of the out seam for looping over the wearer's belt. Made from leather, heavy canvas, nylon. Quail hunters have used them for years, with the leather, or heavy reinforced canvas popular in the south to protect from snake bites. I have recently seen some motorcycle leggin's made this way; step-in's, and full or half zippered. I'd say go for it.

John,.....I understand your plight as do many others on here, but you must be willing to either go to a Tandy store and buy one of their kits that have the pieces cut out for you, or buy patterns from someone who has put in the time and expense to develop a pattern to your liking. Most of us have put in alot of time and money into learning to do these things. If you want to design and build, you must put in the time to teach yourself along the way. By doing so, you will be prepared to expand your abilities which will help you further your craft. I welcome anyone who wants to come and observe a given process, but I don't have the time or inclination to supply every thing to folks who want to get my work given to them without they put in the effort to do some things for themself. Give a man a fish, Vs. Teach a man to fish." I realize that cost is often a factor, but nothing is free,....one way or another.

My guess is that the leather you have is fairly loose grained, perhaps almost sponge like similar to the belly portion on a hide. If that is so, you will get the very dark effect you have now.

This is by far the best information yet on the topic! Thank you for taking the time to post it. Mike

Hey Chris! It has been a real pleasure dealing with you. Your workmanship and customer service is without compare, and in this day that is so rare and we have been very fortunate to have known you. I wish you the best with your new daughter and family. Mike Massey M Bar S Ranch Gear

If you have a bench type pull through splitter, you can start in the middle of the piece and pull it through,...then simply turn the piece around and split from the middle again splitting the other half.

Thank You for this information. Can you recommend a supplier that sells the various bars?

This is a custom piece I made for a customer with his name carved on it in the font of his choice. I made it on the word processor, blew it up to the proper size needed, and made a transparency to lay out on the leather. Hope this helps. Also, by backgounding the word stand above the piece in relief. Mike Massey

Your bottom roller would need to be finely fluted lengthwise to feed the leather through, and a very true solid bed for your blade to mount to.