Jump to content

fivewayswelshcobs

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fivewayswelshcobs

  1. Also consider a half head knife as it is smaller to handle but has the benefit of the curved blade I use mine more than my round knife.
  2. The way I was taught to do round boxes was to put the round base inside the cylinder and double the base by using 2 layers . Then when you angle the stitches from the outside to the base you are stitching through the base in a stronger way as you are going through more leather.
  3. No dogs allowed in my workshop for that very reason, we had a terrier that moved faster than me but also liked bringing in sticks or apples in for me to throw for her, more often then not I fell over those everytime I turned around so she was banished and so have all the more recent dogs. Plus it is safer as mice like the tallow on the bridle or harness leather and they get poisoned in my workshop.
  4. I agree with not stitching across the belt but I would also stop grooving over the bend in the leather at the buckle as it looks messy, you need to stop at a point fractionally past the last stitch and if wanted groove on the back but not over the bend, personally I never groove as the stitching is part of the decoration and if too sunk in it is a waste of time. In 15 years of saddlery and harness work I've not had a problem with worn stitches as when pulled up they are usually set well enough down.
  5. You would have to ask as I only got bright orange and lipstick pink as I needed a change from black and brown.
  6. There is some for sale on eBay UK but depending on the amount try Metropolitan as they will dye and finish any colour you want.
  7. My husband's grandfather had a close encounter with a Longhorn bull but lived to tell the tale as he was saved by the horns - the bull couldn't get him in the corner as his horns wedged before he got to him. Most of our problems were from the cows but we had a few laughs as well including losing a herd of cows in a field of maize in the dark, couldn't see them but could hear them munching.
  8. I was told Dixons was operating a while back but haven`t needed anything to know if they still are. There is another toolmaker in Walsall- G.G leatherwork tools- he trained at Dixons and I know he was working this summer as I know someone bought from him, I used to use him when I was at college near-by.
  9. We were taught to polish inside edge of edger was to pull thread along over the edge, this idea could work for the inside of the groover by threading the eye of the groover and pulling the thread through.
  10. Personally I would only glue if totally apart as holes are easier to restitch and match when there is some movement between the layers of leather and is usually quicker to hand stitch as time can be wasted trying to get the stitch lengths to match.
  11. Tandy do have a shop in Northampton and depending where you are Pittards in Yeovil also carry some of the basics but I would also look on the other posts for frequently mentioned suppliers over here.
  12. You need to use a metal crease, easiest is an adjustable screw crease to follow the edge and heat it so a wet finger sizzles when touched against the metal, then test on a small sample to make sure not too hot and then crease the edge, the amount of pressure required can be worked out to get the crease you want. One warming is more than enough to crease a single belt. This is the way that Walsall trained saddlers use.
  13. I bought some navy blue shoulder from Abbey England while back it was from Sedgwick's so far used it for belts but have plans for a bag as well.
  14. I use a small gas stove one of the newer type like a single gas hob as it is possible to put the crease down during heating, I started using a blow torch but realized it was like using a sledge hammer to crack a walnut. I also tried a small burner but didn`t find it very effective.
  15. Hi Tomarthur, what sort of numbers are you looking for ?
  16. Try Aaron Martin Harness Ltd for the Pearson no.6
  17. The second is a frame for a stitching wheel.
  18. Just to chip in traditional oak tanned leather actually takes year or longer to make not a couple of months- see J and F J Bakers website, I would also think many other veg tanned leathers could also take longer depending on the materials being used ie the skin and also the tannin source and also depending on the conditions in which the leather is being tanned in eg the weather.
  19. If you can find Design and Construction of handbags by W C Double it is out of print it covers all the basics
  20. The only people I know that deal with a lot of leather machines are Hartley sewing machines in Walsall which could be a good starting point.
  21. Yes you can iron a backing onto leather as long as the iron is not too hot and using a cloth between the iron and the backing also taking care not to stop in one place too long. You can also stiffen the leather with gluing a lining on eg another piece of leather or fabric.
  22. There is an out of print book by WC Double called The Design and Construction of Handbags it is well worth looking for especially if you can find one to borrow - I borrowed it from our local library - as it goes through the construction of bags etc. but it can be very expensive to buy. As it was published in the 60`s the designs are dated but the information doesn`t date. It was recommended by Val Micheal when I did one of her courses some years ago.
  23. I have one of the copies - very useful tool but not cheap.
  24. Have you tried Tarnsjo tannery as they do veg tan I have used their harness which is quite good but know very little about the rest of their production and there is a tannery up north that makes nice leather called Bole tannery that makes leather using spruce, both of these are on my to visit list if and when I get to Sweden.
  25. I used the old fashioned method of spit on the finger then touch the creaser, if it sizzles then it is plenty hot enough, if burns then allow to cool or dunk in water to cool and if no sizzle warm a bit more. It does depend on the leather as well so always try on a small piece of scrap to see if it burns the surface rather than creasing it as the finish may affect the required heat.
×
×
  • Create New...