JLSleather

Yeah, it does allow a bit more "wrap". Had some things to do first, but wanting to 'trim the fat' down where it won't NEED to wrap

There ya go.. that'll cut'er down some on the width!

It's been out for nearly 6 months.. it's the blue one that isn't readily available

Next time you're talking with the folks down there, ya might ask 'em about shelf life. I personally can't imagine a die costing $1k -- that must be quite detailed!

Gotcha. My brain read you trying to put one for the Glock on a Sig (etc.). Pay no attention to me .. carry on

I'm not seein' it, Ron. Aren't they different depending on the gun model? Not like the TL- series where it tightens on a rail...

I've seen 'dummy' lasers, but have not found the CT. Then, teh lasers I saw were the price of a dummy gun, so maybe just as well to just get the gun. I have loaned 'dummy' guns, and always got them all back --- except one

I lost some of the "early" work photos due to a house fire. At least we had back-ups of the family pics and video. So now I have pics here AND at another location. I certainly would not "trust" someone else to keep the only copy of my stuff.

Yep, aluminum plate. I assume that your press has some adjustment in height, so no need to take out any plate already there- just "stack" it. As for "needing" double-edged dies, They're useful any time you need a top and bottom that match. Or a left and a right. I'll make this a little longer than maybe you need for the benefit of others. If I make a product like that, then the person making the die (whether that's me or not) would need to match two "mirror image" dies to see them fit. Say a 1/32" tolerance is acceptable variation. Now if LeftDie is 1/32" under and RightDie is 1/32" over, they are both "within spec" but the pieces will not match. If on the other hand ONE die is made with two cutting edges, then even if the die is made 1/32" under OR 1/32" over, teh two sides would still match. There is a way this could be not true, but at this point we're not discussing draft angles. The folks at Tx Custom Dies tell me theirs are made with a 3/4" die height only, so any angle introduced would be very minimal (a fraction of the fraction). There are of course people who purchase and use these dies entirely for speed, and precision isn't even part of the equation. I know of one batch on ebay who appears determined to be the king of $39 holsters (and they DO sell volume). Their product is cheap, but clearly little thought went into the design (beyond what we can "put out" quickly). Each his own, I suppose... I don't currently own any 2-sided dies. I'm not a boot maker, and my holsters are generally NOT the same front and back. But the aluminum won't harm high carbon steel, assuming you're not running the die deep into it.

Yep, true. ANd if you have "tech" issues, that can happen. But surely these folks have pics SOMEwhere ... I personally think your own web site is a good idea, but at the very least you'd think aguycould put a pic on a fakebook, or some such. Not always a tech thing, I don't believe. SOme of these folks who don't proudly display the work seem to have no trouble uploadin a useless video ("aguycould" is minnesotan for suggesting a possible solution to a problem)

I do like 'em to sit in a bit, much as possible without obstructin' the draw. As a rule, I don't care for the "stiffener" reinforcement panel on pancakes with a middle seam... really isn't gaining much of anything there. It's when you wrap them around that they become useful. But, so many people are used to seein' em that I include 'em (usually) with a pattern. This one wraps a bit, so I used it there ...

Is it me, or does it seem like there are a lot of people lately with a "specialty" (to the left of your posts) with no examples or pics of their work ... Doesn't need to be "staged" or even "professional" photos (in fact, I'll likely have a less-than-stellar opinion if it is-- and wonder what it is you're accounting for in your work). Why would someone go on about their work and not show it?

I don't have a variable speed control. I have an old drill press which changes speeds by moving a belt to a different pulley. $50 at a garage sale- and it does NOTHING ELSE but burnish edges. I'd "guess" it's running about 500 rpm turning a 3/4" (18mm-ish) wooden burnishing tool. I actually do have one of those models the original guy mentioned, but it generally sits in the corner (though I have used the sander end a few times). Variable speed, but far too fast even on "low". The burnishing (2" dia) end looks purdy - which I guess is its main function. Maybe I should dust it and keep it looking nice? Once I get moved, I should definitely look into a lathe. Seriously, a guy with a cnc lathe could make 5 of those "burnishing tools" while he's having lunch .. Truth is, the story "we" try to mimic may not have come from a salesman. Much of what is done is created and perpetuated right here. And that cheap stuff "with a sticker on it" only endures because the people using it have never used anything else. A chevy feels pretty smooth to someone who's never driven the Mercedes

Exactly. I see people all the time talking about a 2" diameter wheel churning at 1750 rpm --- yikes!

Are these available for download now?

Yeah, that matters I know some people use my patterns, and where I used 7/8 some prefer 8/9. This is a small difference and can generally be allowed just by stitching on teh outside of the line ...

If you put the lines where they go, and use the correct weight of leather, that pattern will not give you a holster 'too small' (I've tested it a few hundred times; ). But it's intended to give you relatively sharp corners... indicative of the Glock "style". So yeah -- stitching after forming could be tough (but possible). By sharp corners, I mean this ...

I've done both - either way is fine.

Oh, yeah - there's that Guess I assumed we all knew ya kaint tool it, like carving leather. You can get it to take a shape, but not like tooling leather.

Nothing to it. Looks great. Only thing is, you can't color it, so get the color you want from teh start!

I've never bought HO bridle, since I've always been happy with W/C. But at W/C, I get "standard" grade. This bucklething calls it "Grade 1", which W/C doesn't use, so not sure just what it is he's selling. I would inquire first.

Do you have a stitch groover, or a creaser? Make an impression on both front and back (once it's trimmed even) and mark your stitches with either the punch or the wheel (I have never liked the punches and don't use them - I have the wheels) right in the groove. Then I suppose aguycould go watch hours and hours of videos, OR you could just stitch while remembering that if you do each stitch the same way, with the same materials and tools, then each stitch will look the same way. Tha's a nice holster design, by the way A bone folder, or wooden tool handle (like the back end of your edger, maybe) will help 'round' the holster without wrinkling.

Glad you like the piece. I think we're getting close now.. purdy sure the wife picked her house today

Thanks -- that's been a popular little holster.

Size of the area and how enclosed will make a difference. Stacked hides don't lose / gain moisture as quickly as separated hides. And what is " a lot of vegtan tooling and shapin" may not be a lot to the next person. Too many variables to be able to set "a number". Air set about 35% - haven't had any problems. I make a point of not having more than 15 hides at a time around here - which is easy enough.. I aint buildin' saddles