JLSleather

Glad you like the leather (I rather knew you would). We'll look for the pics of the finished goodies

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I think there is an element -- anywhere you go -- of a desire to sell more. If it's VERY difficult to purchase and keep stocked, people would shop somewhere else. But if it's a BIT difficult, people may buy MORE to avoid running out short term. Translation: there may be a marketing aspect to the delay ... (the reverse approach would be what you might find some retail outlets, "yes, we have it in stock and will ship it today -- for about 40% markup")

Without a picture I'm guessing only. Sounds like your needle isn't in correctly, or you have thread wrapped around the needle. I would cut the thread off back at the spool, re-thread the machine from the start. Pull the bobbin, make sure it's running the thread from the bottom of the spool (when you look at it in place and pull the thread, teh bobbin should turn counter-clockwise) verify that the needle 'scarf' is facing to the right, and the 'slot' on the needle is then to the left verify that the thread passes through the needle from left to right Once all that is in place, make sure you are holding some light tension on BOTH top and bottom threads when you start (3-4 stitches is enough). Not to confuse the issue, but just so you know--- the foot pressure (screw on top left) can affect skipped stitches too...

Just saw this. All I got 'round here from W/C is some drum dyed black and drum dyed chestnut.. both in about 7.5-8 0z. At teh moment, I'm scrambin' for boxes... ran out of the big ones for sides, and apparently can't buy them within 50 miles!

Nope... came that way. W/C drum dyed skirting in 'chestnut'.

REALLY? Is there nobody stocking teh blue gun for this .45 ? I mean.. STILL?

I think it's a good plan, in the future, to offer things for sale -- just list it on ebay. I thought it made sense here, since this is where I try to offer some assistance. But honestly, some of the "offers" I've received were.. well -- I would be embarrassed to make that kind of offer myself. Prob'ly my own fault.. I must have said or done something that implied I was desparate (?). No matter - not gonna kill me to pack it and put it on the truck. Matt -- gotta git down to get more boxes to ship yours, which i'm doing shortly

2 points I think are the biggest -- leather is too wet, obviously, and it appears your knife could be sharper. Those two things are really "rookie" mistakes, and make worlds of difference in your work. Sharpen teh swivel knife, and don't be in such a hurry to dig in.. let it dry MORE...

Thanks for bringing this back up for me. Been purdy durn busy with the stuff to make, stuff to send, stuff to move, and stuff to remodel (kitchen cosmetics). Maybe I'll have time to check that later today, in case this guy makes my point for me and saves me some time!

Personally, I would not cancel a W/C order to get a weaver order. Ever. Regardless of the wait.

You "could" do that with a machine, but you'd want to angle the project. With a needle coming straight down on a project which is horizontal (level), teh needle itself would mar the top portion, even if the foot didn't (since the needle would be 'in line' with the hole). You were able to hand stitch your project by bringing the needle in at an angle to the back piece other than 90 degrees. Tilt the table, and a machine will do that.

Oh, 11- 12 give 'er take. 5 feet x 2-foot-something..so, 5 x 24" = 10 feet, and 5 x 30" = 12.5 feet. These are somewhere between, mostly...

I don't believe that stitching loops is the "weaker" method. ANY time you put holes in something, you take away some strength. And bigger holes equals more loss of strength. And slots equals bigger holes. It's true that stitching through the LOOP leather will detract from the strength of it, as opposed to NOT stitching them. But the loops take very little strain throughout their life, and certainly doesn't justify cutting slots or slits in teh main body of the belt. I might have dyed the inside of the holster (at least where it shows) but overall I like it.

I aint been asked about a holster for the 629 .. and then three of them in the last couple ;months. Guess i better gitta dummy for that one ..

I don't put too much weight behind a name - even less than I already did. I have a craftool punch that works great, osborne punches I can't believe I paid money for, and weaver punches which are a 'meh" kind of average. Bad idea to get in the habit of saying "this is good cuz it's from so-n-so".

Nice lookin' belt, but - is that buckle on upside down?

I really really hate this crap. People send me 'stuff' all the time-- I didn't ask for and don't want. Insurance sales seem to be the worst lately - and mostly state farm. I put in new windows, and got "offers" from a place that sells "window dressing" (us "straight" guys usually just say "curtains"). I think they got the address from the local county office from teh building permits (?). And while I know people more "green" than me - I really don't like seeing trees cut unnecessarily. Or fossil fuels used to make ink for crap (if you print flyers, better to just not tell me). So, I don't throw it in a landfill. Or even "recycle" it (which, some think makes it "okay"). No. I set it over there for a few days. And once or twice a week, I put it all in a big envelope and mail it to whoever is on teh top of the pile. So, Mediacom -- if you're wondering why you get state farm "offers" that say 'to Jeff", or if you work for Kohl's and wonder why you can save 30% on your residential cable bill, here's your answer. But I never send this poo to anyone who hasnt' sent me any --- it all ships to someone IN THE PILE. So, you fellas is safe ...

Just call 'em. Same products you get elsewhere, but better pricing. I haven't used their tooling leathers, since I'm good with what i'm using. But the kidskin and billfold sides (chrome) have always been good (since the 80's). They're leather distributors - not web developers That kid that does the plumbing on our places doesn't do roofing worth beans... but then, that's not what we need him to do!

I been tellin' 'em about that place for about 6 years (ish). Don't know why more people don't go there .. that's where I get most of my dyes, and much of my chrome lining leathers.

The pic Dwight put up there is from a pattern. The front and back are the same except for the 'sweat guard' portion. You can download that free. Also, there are some quite general instructions about making holster patterns (also free) including "pancake" holsters. A revolver is going to be only slightly different in the way it's done. It's the same idea, though. I've thought to include a version for revolver pattern making, as well - but currently no time for that. "Western" or "bucket" style patterns are everywhere at the cost of about a dime a dozen, and if you haven't already, I would suggest picking up a copy of the book How To Make Holsters -- even if you don't make THOSE holsters, there is some very useful information in there, for very little money. I think I have the short route, once a pattern is made. But there are a LOT of people making holsters the style you want WITHOUT a pattern. The SHORT version... Sketch the shape you want, with the gun. Cut two pieces of leather a bit larger than you know you'll need, and transfer your sketch to the inside of the back piece. Glue both back and front from the front seam to the front edge, line up the front edges, and stitch your front seam. Wet the front panel [only]. Place your gun in plastic, or at least oil it well, and put it between the layers of leather, TIGHT up against the front seam. NOTE: If you have a high front sight, you might want to place a dowel or pencil along the top of the gun frame for a "sight channel"... something the height of the sight, or slightly more) Form the back of the holster to the firearm, including any form you want in the gun area. Clamp the back end of the leather down to the table.. being sure to put something between the leather and your clamp (don't want marking on the leather - a piece of aluminum is popular, or light wood with no sharp edges). When it's dry enough (couple hours will do it if you set it in front of a small fan) remove the gun (and clean / oil it). Let it dry completely (overnight makes it easy to know it's 'enough'). Now mark on the back piece where your front piece ends (which is now "short" of the back). Open the holster slightly (to avoid wrinkling the front panel at the front seam) and glue both pieces from the back "seam" (where you formed them together) to the back edge of the leather. When the glue is ready, stick the front back down in place. Let the glue set up (depends on the glue you use) and then stitch the back where you formed it. Punch both slots where you want them, through both layers. Trim the outside edges to even them up, and then stitch around the outside. Again, I'll get around to doing this with some illustrations. Or perhaps someone will notice that much of what Im describing is already depicted around here somewhere, and link to the proper pics

For a full-size, I like 7/8 oz or 8/9 oz. Each his own, really.

Meh... I'm over it now. Somebody wanna tell me how wonderful it's going, how they've improved, how they do it 'different".... whatever - if i can't see it, then I can't see it. No matter - not me they need to show it to. Just tough to sell it consistently without someone seeing it.

Sweet Clean, simple, quick, effective... nice. But I don't see the one like that for the Bersa Thunder .380 the guy asked for yesterday and he really wants it!

You must be out a way from downtown a bit... glad you liked the leather, but it does seem that took a bit to get to you! UPS doesn't like weekends, too