JLSleather

Nice lookin' belt, but - is that buckle on upside down?

I really really hate this crap. People send me 'stuff' all the time-- I didn't ask for and don't want. Insurance sales seem to be the worst lately - and mostly state farm. I put in new windows, and got "offers" from a place that sells "window dressing" (us "straight" guys usually just say "curtains"). I think they got the address from the local county office from teh building permits (?). And while I know people more "green" than me - I really don't like seeing trees cut unnecessarily. Or fossil fuels used to make ink for crap (if you print flyers, better to just not tell me). So, I don't throw it in a landfill. Or even "recycle" it (which, some think makes it "okay"). No. I set it over there for a few days. And once or twice a week, I put it all in a big envelope and mail it to whoever is on teh top of the pile. So, Mediacom -- if you're wondering why you get state farm "offers" that say 'to Jeff", or if you work for Kohl's and wonder why you can save 30% on your residential cable bill, here's your answer. But I never send this poo to anyone who hasnt' sent me any --- it all ships to someone IN THE PILE. So, you fellas is safe ...

Just call 'em. Same products you get elsewhere, but better pricing. I haven't used their tooling leathers, since I'm good with what i'm using. But the kidskin and billfold sides (chrome) have always been good (since the 80's). They're leather distributors - not web developers That kid that does the plumbing on our places doesn't do roofing worth beans... but then, that's not what we need him to do!

I been tellin' 'em about that place for about 6 years (ish). Don't know why more people don't go there .. that's where I get most of my dyes, and much of my chrome lining leathers.

The pic Dwight put up there is from a pattern. The front and back are the same except for the 'sweat guard' portion. You can download that free. Also, there are some quite general instructions about making holster patterns (also free) including "pancake" holsters. A revolver is going to be only slightly different in the way it's done. It's the same idea, though. I've thought to include a version for revolver pattern making, as well - but currently no time for that. "Western" or "bucket" style patterns are everywhere at the cost of about a dime a dozen, and if you haven't already, I would suggest picking up a copy of the book How To Make Holsters -- even if you don't make THOSE holsters, there is some very useful information in there, for very little money. I think I have the short route, once a pattern is made. But there are a LOT of people making holsters the style you want WITHOUT a pattern. The SHORT version... Sketch the shape you want, with the gun. Cut two pieces of leather a bit larger than you know you'll need, and transfer your sketch to the inside of the back piece. Glue both back and front from the front seam to the front edge, line up the front edges, and stitch your front seam. Wet the front panel [only]. Place your gun in plastic, or at least oil it well, and put it between the layers of leather, TIGHT up against the front seam. NOTE: If you have a high front sight, you might want to place a dowel or pencil along the top of the gun frame for a "sight channel"... something the height of the sight, or slightly more) Form the back of the holster to the firearm, including any form you want in the gun area. Clamp the back end of the leather down to the table.. being sure to put something between the leather and your clamp (don't want marking on the leather - a piece of aluminum is popular, or light wood with no sharp edges). When it's dry enough (couple hours will do it if you set it in front of a small fan) remove the gun (and clean / oil it). Let it dry completely (overnight makes it easy to know it's 'enough'). Now mark on the back piece where your front piece ends (which is now "short" of the back). Open the holster slightly (to avoid wrinkling the front panel at the front seam) and glue both pieces from the back "seam" (where you formed them together) to the back edge of the leather. When the glue is ready, stick the front back down in place. Let the glue set up (depends on the glue you use) and then stitch the back where you formed it. Punch both slots where you want them, through both layers. Trim the outside edges to even them up, and then stitch around the outside. Again, I'll get around to doing this with some illustrations. Or perhaps someone will notice that much of what Im describing is already depicted around here somewhere, and link to the proper pics

For a full-size, I like 7/8 oz or 8/9 oz. Each his own, really.

Meh... I'm over it now. Somebody wanna tell me how wonderful it's going, how they've improved, how they do it 'different".... whatever - if i can't see it, then I can't see it. No matter - not me they need to show it to. Just tough to sell it consistently without someone seeing it.

Sweet Clean, simple, quick, effective... nice. But I don't see the one like that for the Bersa Thunder .380 the guy asked for yesterday and he really wants it!

You must be out a way from downtown a bit... glad you liked the leather, but it does seem that took a bit to get to you! UPS doesn't like weekends, too

Yeah, it does allow a bit more "wrap". Had some things to do first, but wanting to 'trim the fat' down where it won't NEED to wrap

There ya go.. that'll cut'er down some on the width!

It's been out for nearly 6 months.. it's the blue one that isn't readily available

Next time you're talking with the folks down there, ya might ask 'em about shelf life. I personally can't imagine a die costing $1k -- that must be quite detailed!

Gotcha. My brain read you trying to put one for the Glock on a Sig (etc.). Pay no attention to me .. carry on

I'm not seein' it, Ron. Aren't they different depending on the gun model? Not like the TL- series where it tightens on a rail...

I've seen 'dummy' lasers, but have not found the CT. Then, teh lasers I saw were the price of a dummy gun, so maybe just as well to just get the gun. I have loaned 'dummy' guns, and always got them all back --- except one

I lost some of the "early" work photos due to a house fire. At least we had back-ups of the family pics and video. So now I have pics here AND at another location. I certainly would not "trust" someone else to keep the only copy of my stuff.

Yep, aluminum plate. I assume that your press has some adjustment in height, so no need to take out any plate already there- just "stack" it. As for "needing" double-edged dies, They're useful any time you need a top and bottom that match. Or a left and a right. I'll make this a little longer than maybe you need for the benefit of others. If I make a product like that, then the person making the die (whether that's me or not) would need to match two "mirror image" dies to see them fit. Say a 1/32" tolerance is acceptable variation. Now if LeftDie is 1/32" under and RightDie is 1/32" over, they are both "within spec" but the pieces will not match. If on the other hand ONE die is made with two cutting edges, then even if the die is made 1/32" under OR 1/32" over, teh two sides would still match. There is a way this could be not true, but at this point we're not discussing draft angles. The folks at Tx Custom Dies tell me theirs are made with a 3/4" die height only, so any angle introduced would be very minimal (a fraction of the fraction). There are of course people who purchase and use these dies entirely for speed, and precision isn't even part of the equation. I know of one batch on ebay who appears determined to be the king of $39 holsters (and they DO sell volume). Their product is cheap, but clearly little thought went into the design (beyond what we can "put out" quickly). Each his own, I suppose... I don't currently own any 2-sided dies. I'm not a boot maker, and my holsters are generally NOT the same front and back. But the aluminum won't harm high carbon steel, assuming you're not running the die deep into it.

Yep, true. ANd if you have "tech" issues, that can happen. But surely these folks have pics SOMEwhere ... I personally think your own web site is a good idea, but at the very least you'd think aguycould put a pic on a fakebook, or some such. Not always a tech thing, I don't believe. SOme of these folks who don't proudly display the work seem to have no trouble uploadin a useless video ("aguycould" is minnesotan for suggesting a possible solution to a problem)

I do like 'em to sit in a bit, much as possible without obstructin' the draw. As a rule, I don't care for the "stiffener" reinforcement panel on pancakes with a middle seam... really isn't gaining much of anything there. It's when you wrap them around that they become useful. But, so many people are used to seein' em that I include 'em (usually) with a pattern. This one wraps a bit, so I used it there ...

Is it me, or does it seem like there are a lot of people lately with a "specialty" (to the left of your posts) with no examples or pics of their work ... Doesn't need to be "staged" or even "professional" photos (in fact, I'll likely have a less-than-stellar opinion if it is-- and wonder what it is you're accounting for in your work). Why would someone go on about their work and not show it?

I don't have a variable speed control. I have an old drill press which changes speeds by moving a belt to a different pulley. $50 at a garage sale- and it does NOTHING ELSE but burnish edges. I'd "guess" it's running about 500 rpm turning a 3/4" (18mm-ish) wooden burnishing tool. I actually do have one of those models the original guy mentioned, but it generally sits in the corner (though I have used the sander end a few times). Variable speed, but far too fast even on "low". The burnishing (2" dia) end looks purdy - which I guess is its main function. Maybe I should dust it and keep it looking nice? Once I get moved, I should definitely look into a lathe. Seriously, a guy with a cnc lathe could make 5 of those "burnishing tools" while he's having lunch .. Truth is, the story "we" try to mimic may not have come from a salesman. Much of what is done is created and perpetuated right here. And that cheap stuff "with a sticker on it" only endures because the people using it have never used anything else. A chevy feels pretty smooth to someone who's never driven the Mercedes

Exactly. I see people all the time talking about a 2" diameter wheel churning at 1750 rpm --- yikes!

Are these available for download now?

Yeah, that matters I know some people use my patterns, and where I used 7/8 some prefer 8/9. This is a small difference and can generally be allowed just by stitching on teh outside of the line ...