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Everything posted by JLSleather
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Yep - used to be that Osborne meant good toys. Not so much any more... As for where to get that "old" quality... I wouldn't know. Hit 'n' miss about anywhere really. And can't really take a recommend from around here too seriously either. I bought a set of the J Watt edgers that everyone was going on about. I found them to be "just okay".. they came ready to cut but do not hold an edge at all. And I have weaver slot punches that I'm considering giving away, soon as I find someone I don't particularly like
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Not sure i understand the value of using a drill press for stitching holes, since an awl is far less expensive and takes less space (and can easily be angled as needed). But for those who want to do it that way.. why not just chuck up a sewing machine needle, or an awl blade?
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Holster for M&P Shield
JLSleather replied to jstar61's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
We kaint see the back side Clip? Loop? Velcro? I like the compact design -
I used to have one of the 206RB5. Letting it go was not my best decision ever Still, that really is limited to 207 thread (max), but was darn reliable. Keep in mind that for actual knowledge, I would perhaps recommending a message to Wiz or Art here on the forums - either of whom has likely forgotten more than I know about various machines -- or give 'Cowboy Bob' a call (number on teh web site)
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I've not used one, but everybody who bought the Cowboy 3200 has good things to say about both the machine and the dealer they got it from. Search that one on this forum. If I didn't have machines here already I'd likely give that one a go. There are others, too -- perhaps someone will chime in with more knowledge of various models than me ...
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If you're doing belts / straps up to about 1/4" (which is WAY more than enough) you should be able to find a decent machine for maybe $1500-1800 (new).
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Glad I could help Now, you want the mag carrier for that 1911 for the cost of shipping? I got one here on the desk (for about a month now) with a cosmetic "booger"... which you can have just for paying the shipping. It aint bad, it's what happens when you drop a drop of Fiebings oil dye on a mag carrier which already has finish on it (OOOPS!). Unwilling to pitch it out, unwilling to sell it as "new", and don't carry a 1911 Pic shortly... assuming you don't "need" a mag from me, but this would actually let you see some 7/8 oz drum dyed skirting from W/C
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For efficient cutting of belts, you'd likely want either a bend or a double shoulder. A "bend" is a single back with the shoulder portion removed. Backs generaly aren't long enough to cut TWO strips, so that would be "trim" (not necessarily "waste") I use backs, since I can cut a belt from the bend section and the matching holster from the shoulder section. Tandy got a pretty good description of this: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/leather-buying-guide.html I ordered from RJF once.
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Nope, sorry. I don't use anything that heavy. Generally use 7/8 or 8/9 and line it with 4 oz (glued 'n' stitched). And I aint got too much o' that, neither.. getting ready to pack 'n' move!
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From the album: Seriously ...
This is the 9mm / .40 version. The .45 is coming shortly ... -
Who, me? I thought I already said.. Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig. I use both.
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I don't know what that is. but actually it's intended to make fun of the extreme crap that people can be talked in to buying. Leather workers are no exception.. they often pay for useless items. I've paid for some things myself, turned out to be a pointless waste of time and money. I'm sure most of us have things we aren't sure how or why we bought that. Idea is to not repeat it ...
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I don't see anything in that listing which tells you the 'grade' of leather. I always order "A" grade, and have used some quite nice "B" grade as well.
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Hermann Oak is nice leather. Also, Wickett & Craig makes a nice piece - though it's a bit more money. Tools, dyes, and stains very nicely. Firm but not hard.
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Okay, it's gone worse. Just saw that there's a tv program called "i want that", where some grifter "introduces" new products. Or hustles new stuff. Whatever. One of these 'innovations' is a breathalizer, basically. You blow in it, and based on the acetone level in your breath, it tells you if you are burning "enough" fat calories from your diet and exercise (in parts per million). REALLY? Here's a tip for the DIY types out there.... Take off your shirt, and undo your pants. With a NON-TOXIC marker, draw a line across where your belt would go. Now, look down. If you can't see the line.. your diet and exercise "program" isn't working
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I have ordered backs and bends of HO leather from a number of places, and I can tell you that none of the "retailers" "B" grade looks nearly as nice as the "B" I've received from the tannery.
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I haven't been to anything like that in years. And I haven't been to those specific ones ever, so can't really say anything about those. But I do know people who have been there - some repeatedly - and it appears to me much like any other "show"... bunch of booths and people lined up to sell you something else ...
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Overall, it aint bad. One thing that stands for a bit of attention... maybe... your shading (pear shader, thumb print, whatever ya call it) ends quite abruptly. I like to see the shade taper out a little more gradually. Ideally, someone looking at the carving would see a flower with some contour, rather than the mark of the tool that made it. Still, it dont look "bad'..
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Nah.. I aint payin $80 to ship a tool (only need one). Even if I would do that, just kaint bring myself to PAY for 'FREE' shipping ...
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Who don't like HF? Likely most of us got something came from there. But I GOTTA go with pickin' it up at the store. I ordered a thing on teh 10th. Fits in a 7x7x7 box. Shipping was $7, and the tracking shows it's in CO -- sent from CA somewhere!@#!! There's a HF store about hour and a half south of here, and another one about 3 hours north of here .. so why again does it ship from CA? My mistake... next time I know to tell her to pick one up on her way through Minneapolis .... Tracking says it should be delivered by the 23rd.... I sent packages all over the country for $7 .. in 2-3 days..
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1911 Holster, From JLS Pattern
JLSleather replied to Forester's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
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Yikes.. I wrote all them there sentences, when i coulda jus said this Only time I mention "hours", or allow someone else to tell me about "hours" -- is whether it will be ready by noon on Tuesday (noon is an 'hour') or can I pick it up after work ('after work' is an hour). If the maker sets his price by the time it took that's up to him/her -- but when you want to sell it I just want to see the item and hear the price.
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I agree that labor is the largest expense. But not all labor is good labor. An extreme example.. say picking up the leather. One guy takes the van, takes two hours. Other guy walks.. takes all day. I don't pay the second guy more because he doesn't think (even though there was more labor). And THERE is the point of "handmade"- IF it is in fact superior. People have always argued manufactured vs "handmade", but if the hand made 'version' isn't BETTER than the manufactured, then WHY would I pay more?!#!@! If someone spent 10 hours making a product that was inferior to the one I can get "over the counter" (and it happens all the time) .... then calling it "handmade" and asking a "good" price is insulting to both buyer and seller. I see that ALL the time.. yet another guy (or girl) with a shoddy product, asking far too much and justifying the price by going on about "handmade", "made in USA", .. usually accompanied by long stories and why-tube videos (TIP: making a video does not make poo less odorous). "Overhead" is a legitimate conversation anywhere - has to be in there somewhere. But equipment without knowledge isn't of use to anyone. $10k will get enough stuff to start making a lot of things. But I don't let someone hand me poop and tell me they made it on their whatever [clicker, stitcher, skiver....]. The Lexus is worth less than the bicycle to the guy who can't drive ...
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Fiebings Black
JLSleather replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
I thin the black (not the oil black) ONLY when spraying, to get light grey (clouds and shading), and then like 25:1. Otherwise, full strength.