JLSleather

Hermann Oak has a 10-side minimum order IF all teh same weight , 20 sides if mixing weights. For me, it's worth the trouble to get the good stuff.

In an effort to help teh guy avoid another wave of phone calls, I can tell you that the bersa thunder .380 are both gone, and the colt python and s/w 629 are gone.

Yeah. This stuff is nice. In fact, I feel like I should have a disclaimer pointing out that I am not being paid / compensated to say this much about it. I'm no sewing pro, but I LIKE this stuff. EDIT: Pay no attention to the actual color shown... I think my camera has about had it, and ready to get retired to the fishin' tackle box!

Got some thread in from Bob K, which I been meaning to try for too long now. The natural was a tad darker than I expected, but just barely. No issues with the thread. rolls off the spool quite nicely, lays flat in teh hole. Should have called Bob about thread a year ago Still, I had to do a bit of a test before assailing a project with new toys. While I wouldn't have done a test just for the sake of doing a test, since I DID do it, might as well share the results (seriously, why make a mistake and learn from it when you could just learn from ME making the mistake ?!@#$!). So, tested two pieces of 9 oz HO, no dye no finish no glue. The thread is 346 in teh needle side and 277 in the bobbin side, both natural nylon from Toledo Ind. Note the difference in the appearance, despite using the SAME spi (about 5.5spi), the same thread (346 top / 277 bottom) and the same tension settings. Only thing changed is the needle being used. Top of the leather - thread is 346. Top row shows a 25 needle with an "S" point. Second row shows a 25 needle with an "LL" point. Bottom side of same piece (flipped). The thread is 277.

You could color it if you like, but fact is it looks good as is.

Right.. but -- how much delivered to your door? Yeah .. makes those selling them at $50 or more look .. well.. not so great And then they "tack on" exorbitant shipping costs... Most of these places (the ones I'm familiar with) are making money both sides of the coin -- making the gun seem like a "loss leader" (and selling you something else with a larger margin), AND significantly padding the shipping charges. Here's a thing FYI.. you can ship all but the largest ring's pistols in a priority box for like $6.20 within the US. That is box included, insurance included. So those places that charge $7 and up PLUS want you to pay for insurance, that's their "padding". Each his own, but I prefer not to pay it. If a guy is buying 1 or 2 or 3 guns, few bucks doesn't matter one way or another, probably. But if you're buying 50, then $6-8 apiece is adding up. Basically, that's a free side of good leather and two big spools of thread.... Seems the smart way to go.. 2 or 3 fellas pool the funds and split an order from rings -- I mean, if you were going to buy them anyway.

Simple.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMVHrTPf1AQ

Think you want a #26 needle.

Is 277 correct?!!@! I'd ask Bob.. cuz if that machine will use a #27 needle, then it likely use 346 thread too!

I assume you're making two different rigs (?) The Ruger is actually just a bit smaller than a k-frame smith, much smaller than the L

I still haven't ruled out pickin' up one o those, so do let us know what you think. I mean, not a half hour long ranting video where you appear to be strung out on puppy uppers (since that's already been done).. but just hey.. this is good, that aint kinda thing

Yeah, that prolly IS about 6 feet. But around here, I'm more concerned with the quality than the exact dimensions. I mean, if I order 20 feet of "A-grade" leather, then If it HAS TO be wrong, I'd rather get 19 feet of "A" better than 20 feet of "B MINUS" (which is very frequent with some suppliers).

I was all prepared ta say Angelus dye, even on the edges, then finish edges with wax. But a guy kaint say THAT aint pink!

Purdy sure at least some of the issues you were describing were the leather you were using. Current trends, use brown dye, and when it looks blotchy and cheap, just call it "zombie" and double the price Meanwhile, I sent you a chunk of HO leather just so you can compare. And I made a point of cutting from the shoulder, since yours was from a shoulder - for the best comparison. Leather is just shy of 8 oz (couple thousandths) so I think you'll find it easier to insert! It takes black dye quite well.

Yeah, likely more work than it's worth. Pitch and replace.

After reading three times, I aint getting this If you're not doing the sunburst, what ARE you doing? Go on show me... I aint scaret ta learn sumthin'....

I"M the dimmest switch at my sewing machine, but it sounds like you need a speed reducer. Dual pulley, different sizes, trade torque for speed....

Yeah, you'll use a dry one. Wet one to take off the heavy particles - might use more than one piece depending on teh dye application. Then when the leather is still damp, dry one..

Even better. Tear an old t-shirt into pieces about 8x8 (or 10x10, whatever). Point is, one shirt go a long way. Wet one piece, wipe both sides, set that piece of to the side (if you hang it over something, it doesn't mildew and it's reusable). Wet another piece, wring 'til damp, buff. When teh rag is collecting black particles (dye is in fact pigments suspended in liquid - you're buffing off the 'chunks' that didn't penetrate), change the rag to a clean one. Whole thing probably won't take you 10 minutes once you have the stuff ready to go. Then while it's already damp anyway, go on mold the holster. You'll buff it again with a clean cloth once it's almost dry from forming. You'll pick it up quickly -- black polishes up nicely and shines even without finish on it.

Menards has a 1x4 (need about 8'), two screws and a bolt -- for about $6. That's all that tandy thing is, and the menards version lets you make it to a height that suits you (and less flimsy). They're not particularly suited to belts, either. Something with jaws about 6" wide works better (and 8" wouldn't hurt) While yer at menards, buy one 10d nail. Pound it into an awl blade -- it'll be sharper than the one from tandy. As for buffing, I have not yet found anything works better than an old t-shirt... worn and soft. Use the wife's... so if you run out it dont matter With the heavy black, wet teh rag, and WIPE (not buff) the first pass. This will remove flakes and particles which can scratch teh surface of your leather. I'm talking wet, but not dripping rag, so the leather will get damp, but not soaked. Then buff -- don't need to wait for it to dry first.

I got one o them harbor freight brushes. Everybody was on about 'em , so I ordered one. Maybe a year ago? Maybe little longer than that? When it came with a different fitting than my other hoses, I put it in the drawer, where it's been ever since! Pulled it out in the course of moving stuff (for the move to MN) and saw that the fitting I need is already in there Oh, well... maybe that little girl from AU can get some use of it ...

Gotta watch them goofy marketing people. They'll take a $2 knife off teh shelf at the auto parts store, put a sticker on it that says "leather knife", and charge $24 ea.

Shopping list: Fiebing's oil dye pony from Tandy stitching awl from Tandy

It's not difficult as it sounds. I cut hides with a 6' aluminum stick I found in the drywall section at Menards

Better yet, get some of teh black OIL dye, some wool daubers, and some disposable gloves. As for getting it off this time, 'dawn' dishwashing soap works well as anything I've tried. GoJo from the shop doesn't help much, bar soap from the bathroom leaves black plus the wife's wrath, and the neighbor girl doesn't like grey shades on her kitty