JLSleather

Beret -- I like it But then, I've always been a dog lover, so you already had a leg up Get it.. leg up.... Mark, you bring up a couple of points, though I admit I'm not entirely sure why. I mean, if you don't want to show a pic, then don't. I wasn't necessarily talking about putting pics here (in fact, I suggested your own web site). I'm simply saying that IF you are in business to sell it, then to sell it to me then I need to see it. This could be done with a simple link (Beret did that nicely). I bought a no-name pneumatic stapler about 10 years ago, for about 40% of the Bostitch or the Makita. Still works great. They sold it to me by showing it to me. I wouldn't bet your last dollar on this one. LOTS of folks around leather -- well.. nevermind.. nothing will change and I'll just be irritated Surprising that you see "being in business" and "making art" as two different things. For those who "just" make art, then I guess it wouldn't matter if someone saw it or not. No reason to show it if you aren't trying to sell it. For those "being in business to make money", how will i buy it if I haven't seen it?@!

Mine were from a year ago. Still junk.

Dies, slings, and belt strips are sold. Still have the embossed straps, and will pick up cleaning from there!

$170 for a "bend" is a bit steep, but looks like you got some decent leather there, so not traumatic

I don't go out of my way to say something "negative", but I will do it. I tell my kids not to play in the street -- I'm not being "mean" or "negative", just trying to save us all some pain. On the other hand, if you get me a GOOD product, I'll say that too!

I don't know where that fits in "grading", but I dont' use 'fuzzy'. If they can't split it cleanly, then I'm out! Seriously, splitting is done all the time, and I wonder if someone who can't take care of that should even be supplying leather.

And the embossed straps.. 4 are 1 1/4" wide, rest are 1 1/2" 1 is 42" long, the rest are 48" or more New Balance shoe not for sale, but for scale only No finish on these, so you can dye/trim/stitch

The dies... small and large mag pouch from the site.. makes left or right hand with little modification (one die to make either hand). Plus weaver 1 1/2" punch -- the weaver is NOT particularly sharp, but in my defense, it came that way and I'm simply done sharpening tools BEFORE I get to use them $100 shipped in teh US. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain (or the mess on the desk)

And a row of embossed straps.. long enough for belts.... say like 12 for $160 includes US shipping (seriously - this price is already bordering insanity). Line and stitch, done!

Back to where to get belt cow ... Alex (Boriqua) says he's been happy with the leather from http://aleatherd.com/ I haven't been there as yet, but it looks like Alex knows something about leather, and thus he's convinced me to test it out Phone call this morning gets a message that Bridgett is away from her desk, but since it's new years eve in parts of KY, that's no great surprise. Plus I have no idea who Bridgett is

Machine shop should be able to re-create pins for you. Got one in your area? Back when I "worked", I often made pins of various sizes to replace "unreplaceable" parts on things from shafts to outboard motors. One day when I have room, I simply MUST get a metal lathe... put all that training to some use after all

At that price, not much reason left not to try it.

That don't look bad.. like ya say.. nice to know if that's consistent one order to the next. No pricing on their site, either. Also, not sure if it's the leather, or maybe just your camera settings -- but that looks a little darker than HO or W/C... just a tad more "russet"-ish

That basket stamp looks crisp, clear. So is that from a side, or a shoulder?

Looks purdy crisp

I like 3/4 on the outside, unless it's for large wallets (small handbags, etc.). This "roper" style wallet was done with 3/4 tooling leather and a Chaylor insert from SLC. Recently got a really sweet letter from the gal who bought it that after a couple of years, it still looks just like new. OH, yeah.. 3/4 oz be about 1.5mm This one also done with 3/4 (Royal Meadow from Tandy), and lined with 1 1/2 oz kidskin from S-T Leather.

IF I'm using a 4 oz liner, I run teh liner up to the slot for the buckle, fold the top OVER the liner (for about 3 1/2"). The back side of the front strap does not show unless you unfold it. IF I'm using an 8 oz liner (which is rare), then I stop the liner even with the folded over top piece, so there is no gap and no overlap (butt joint).

In today's mail ... HO A-grade $7.81 up to 8 oz, $7,95 above 8 oz Backs add 1.45 / ft Making HO A backs $9.26 / ft HO_2017.pdf

Same here. They cut pretty nice.. for a little while...

EXACTLY! Best way to know. I think where folks get into "issues", they make a pattern (often from paper) and then use that pattern to mark the OUTside instead of the INside.

TRUE... and it's only less 'visible' due to teh sueded side 'hiding' a bit of the 'smoosh'... so only matters to the extent that once it's shaped, the inside still has to be big enough to put whatever goes in there

Yeah, not sure there is a "trick" for getting the right amount of curve. Educated guess, maybe more like it. Obviously, a dog collar is more "curved" than a belt for me.... Guy needs to get it close to the size you want.. for teh curve. And your mention of a can or pipe brings up exactly the issue - each layer you put on top of the last layer needs to be LONGER than any layers before (under) it. Somewhere around here I did some math about that..... but it will depend on the thickness of the leather (thicker leather gets longer between layers than thin stuff). As to teh wrinkles, once layers are glued together, they are working against each other in terms of stretch/compress. So if you glue two layers "flat", then when you curve it the outside will stretch and the inside will compress. Which lead a lot o the boys makin' belts curved. Including me. But I don't particularly like that, really. If you glue it flat, the inside gets compressed. But if you glue it on a curve, then when you straighten it, the OUTside gets compressed, which you would have to say is WORSE - particularly if you spent the time to tool it. In the end, I try to 'guess' the belt curve, and make it with 'not quite enough' curve, so the guy has to pull it on around just a bit. The deformation is minimal, if any, and teh finish isn't damaged when it's straightened. And it WILL get straight, even if that's only when a guy pulls it out of the belt loops...

Oh, yeah.. completely forgot about boys doin' this in different climates! Up here, the temp can change like 50 degrees in a day.. with humidity to boot... so I do all my stuff inside... about 70 degrees and low humidity. Only outside on sunny days in August!

What deal? The slings? The belts? The dies? All of the above Prolly got yer info somewhere.. send me a message or gimme a call.. Slings $50 Belts $70 Dies $100

That's what I said. The outer layer isn't long enough to "come around" the curve, and the inner layer is too long to fit without buckling.